I'm certainly not an expert on this, but I do know there can be a conflict in receivers with USB connections. In my laptop, I can't plug my keyboard/mouse receiver next to a USB external hard drive (it drops my receiver range to a matter of centimetres). However if I plug the receiver on the other side of the laptop, it all works fine. Perhaps try the wifi receiver at the back and the keyboard/mouse receiver at the front?
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Seems the obvious thing to try yeah, think i tried that but somehow that might have been an issue too (can't remember).
Anyway will try it again now, but i really won't know for sure until the next day powering up that computer again to see if it works.
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Although the USB cable is wired from the motherboard to the front of the case, there is a possibility of power supply failure.
Since it was normally available at first, it is possible that the capacitor in the receiver has deteriorated and that stable power supply can not be performed.
Or, there is also a possibility that the driver of the receiver or the like simply has a problem at the time of updating.
If it is inserted into the back of the case, there is a suspicion of the former if the delay is stable but the recognition is stable.
(Because there is no power consumption for the wiring in the case)
In the former case, it is a replacement by purchase.
In the latter case, it may be a good idea to look for driver and software updates for each receiver.
As "translation apparatus" is suspicious today, it is fortunate if you read it.
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Thanks, well hardware should still be under warranty.
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My mouse receiver is always plugged in my laptop. i never get it out.That cause no trouble at all
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Is it possible that a Win 10 update buggered your drivers? Check Device Manager for error icons (Right click This PC, select Properties, then Device Manager). You may need to scroll down to Universal Serial Bus Controllers.
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With windows 10 it's always possible a new update can bugger things, everything shows up fine in device manager (which would explain why once the usb stuff works, it keeps on working).
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does it just do nothing when you plug in the USB devices? I would restart the machine with no USB devices plugged in (besides wired keyboard/mouse if you have it). Then just plug one in and see what happens. If it doesn't get recognized at all, then I think it's the USB port/controller.
What happens if you plug in just a thumb-drive in the same port?
Odds of both your wifi and keyboard/mouse dongles going bad (at the same moment) is slim, so it's probably a problem up the chain. Hopefully it's not the motherboard...
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That sounds like physical connections problem to me. contacts being dirty or bent. is this new gear? do you have a usb hub? putting things on a hub then plugging the hub in may help; especially a powered hub. I have a similarly wonky front USB port, started working better after a few blasts of canned air... I try to leave devices in (and on) whenever reasonably possible...
If the devices work and you reboot and they stop working, it makes me question the problem being physical connections...
Have you added any other new hardware lately?
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But after reboot they do still work, it's only on cold boots.
I don't have a hub nor added new hardware in the past 6 months.
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Just shooting in the dark. But putting 2 things together you say.
1 happens only on COLD boots
2 you had an ssd connection overHEATING the input.
What if through the heat the port expanded a little and doesnt connect well until it has heated up enough again?
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i'd try the "Workaround" on bottom page i've just linked below.
it's about "USB Selective Suspend" feature
but beware you're handling The Registry... and bad (worse, way worse) things may occur!
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I am not worried about handling the registry, however "However, be aware that when the Selective Suspend feature is disabled, all USB host controller drivers (and therefore all USB ports and connected USB devices) in the system are affected".
Don't know if that might do harm to other stuff that i can't think of yet.
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then, i'd wait for tomorrow cold boot, if i were you.
and if it doesn't solve, you could try to backup the registry key Mamma Microsoft said, then try the "workaround".
if it doesn't work, unedit the workaround using the backup.
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When i boot and try it 1-2 times out and in a usb it does nothing, sometimes it takes 3 tries, other times 8 tries, when it works it will keep working until the next day booting the pc, feels like that the pc just isn't "ready" to turn on the usb until after 2-3 minutes for some reason.
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Nah, the usb service shouldn't have a delay like that, it might take a second to tell you what it's doing, but it starts doing it almost immediately...
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It is weird that you get input lag from the back ports, since they have a "lower ping" (they're connected directly to the mobo), it may be interference. I know I have quite some around my pc but my room is heavily wired, so I don't really care to find the source (since it also don't give me any problems).
Anyway, the front ports are always the most problematic on any pc I've had to repair, mostly because they're used more often, but also because they're connected to the mobo with a cable (which is also usually very cheap and thin), which prevents them to give out the full 1A per couple of ports (USB 2.0) and therefore you might have some current-hungry device fail to start or work correctly (like HDDs but also eCigs).
They also wear out and gets their contacts bent, you can check the latter with a torch to see if all is alright.
Cleaning them is very hard because you'll have to have something very thin to which you can stick some cotton and cleaning fluid (alcohol, sprays like wd40, etc.).
It's hard to diagnose the problem anyway, but you can try moving them to another USB "hub", so connecting the internal cable that goes from the mobo to the front panel to a different USB connector on the mobo, since they usually have more than just that one.
It may also be the BIOS that somehow got its config corrupted a bit. You can try resetting it, enter it and then set all options as they were before, save and exit.
It could be anything, though, like some capacitors that aren't working correctly anymore, or Windows (depending if the keyboard works in BIOS but then shuts down during Windows boot).
Does connecting them to the back ports work, beside the lag?
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Yeah (losing) the front ports are very problematic, and as you say it could be anything, hoping someone maybe had the same thing and just came up with this one bright idea they had to fix it.
I added that bit in the op just now, that i did had some issues a while ago with some sd's getting very hot, dunno if that could damage things?
I moved the wifi to the back (though not remember if that didn't create some issues) but i won't know for sure if that works until tommorow when i boot it again, i will also reset the bios. Will look at the contacts later. Thanks
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The "overheating" sd cards/usb thumbdrives MAY be normal, as long as they're USB3.0+ (SD cards are not dependent on an USB standard, but in this case I just mean "they're as fast as a specific USB standard allows, and connected with a card reader of such standard"), though I myself don't use SD so often and only with USB2.0 card readers. It MAY be that, by using an USB3.0/3.1 card reader coupled with a very fast SD card, that they may get hot both because their chip is fully utilized, and because the card reader itself works at such speeds, but again I don't have any experience with such setup, and my 2.0 card reader and SD card never becomes anything more than barely warm.
It's a different thing with USB thumbdrives: 2.0 drives usually becomes just slightly warm but 3.0/3.1 may become burn-hot, especially in summer and during file transfers, even if you connect them to an USB2.0 port (though in that case they may become slightly less hot).
Therefore it's hard to know if, in your case, it is normal or not, but maybe the SDcard-becomes-very-hot case of yours may help since it's not so common, but someone else with more experience in that than me will be able to help you more.
One thing you can do to find the issue is to check if you have the same problems BOTH in Windows AND in the BIOS: if your mouse+keyboard works fine in BIOS but have problems in Windows, it might be a Windows-related problem and you can tranquilize yourself, and that can be "easily" solved through software.
Another easy test to see if it's a software issue, is to download an Ubuntu DVD (download the latest version, x64), burn it on a disc and then boot your system with it: you'll be able to play with it, do some file transfers and see if everything's ok, check your USB devices, to see if they responds well and never fail.
Years ago you were also able to install it on your system along Windows in an easy way, by creating a huge single-file in your C: drive which will contain the whole operating system, and maybe it still does. That way you'll be able to boot on the selected OS (though I must admit I don't have any experience in dual-booting with Win10, but I guess it's still allowed, unless Microsoft did one of their "smart" things), and test it even better than just by running it from the DVD. You'll be able to easily remove it later when you're done without messing with partitions, or keep it as an emergency OS.
This test is definitely the easiest and most effective way to check if it's a software or an hardware problem, and used it myself countless times in my life, which saved me MANY HOURS of tests.
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It was usb 2.0. But it was true that one old 1gb card (yeah not much but enough for Atari Flashback) was just broken i think because i couldn't get it to read on anything.
The second event however was a sd for my Nintendo switch and when i tried to copy files it kept losing the connection in the pc, i almost wanted to return it to the seller, however "suddenly" it kept working a bit and i just got another sd card for the switch and put the other one in my phone, but since i am waiting on some screen protectors (tried aliexpress) for over 50 days now… haven't really used the phone yet (i am not one that sits constantly on one).
In the old dossy American Megatrends BIOS startup screen it says keyboard not detected but dunno if it's because its that old and seeks for wired ones, the ASUS BIOS however is quite extensive. And yeah haven't tested to go into bios straight away on a cold boot.
I am not one for dual boot anymore, and i got VMWare if i wanted to run some other OS (i got a very old Ubuntu there too but never used it, Linux seemed to hard for me to bother) but that won't help me in this case as the problems arise on a cold boot.
It keeps getting a lot harder to get the mouse/keyboard to work in the mornings, i think maybe it could be that receiver starts to break?
The thing with wifi is that the light will blink on a cold boot but the connection is turned off and i need to manually turn it on but since i need to get the mouse working first, i don't know if the wifi is also slow to boot or it's really just the mouse/keyboard.
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Offtopic: I've used Aliexpress for years and I can assure you their customer support is the best I ever tried (for this kind of sites), much better than ebay's (I've never lost a single cent), it's only that cheap stuff is sent via cheap shipping methods and it can take months to be delivered, but if you have any problem BEFORE your protection time runs out (you can ask the seller to extend it though), then you'll always get your money back. :)
Back on topic, if you really identified the problem to lie only on cold boots, then you've got some high chances that it is an hardware fault, as you may have guessed already. Unfortunately, there's not much you can do to identify it at home, because you'd have to have another identical motherboard on which you'll have to put all your stuff and test if everything works right there, but obviously who has got this chance at home?
Of course you could just test individual components on another mobo, but most of them wouldn't really cause such problems under any circumstance.
I see you seem to have identified that the problem started after updating a specific driver, but if this only happens on cold boot, it may just be a coincidence, although sometimes certain driver versions could make some hardware problem more evident than before because they uses it differently: I remember a friend of mine which had a motherboard with a faulty audio controller that would give out weird noises every time you used the mouse, but it would work fine if you used the basic drivers which Windows installs itself, and that's because they're so basic that they don't enable/use some advanced functionality in the chip and that's enough to not exploit the hardware bug. It might be your case, or just a coincidence.
To test if your theories are right, you obviously have to use something else. Don't you have wired mouse and keyboard, and maybe a different wifi receiver? Those could help a lot.
Those tests I suggested (like Ubuntu, even if just booted with the DVD without installing it) are really needed to be sure that it is a software problem and not just failing hardware, so do them before spending money on stuff. You may also could do the opposite, test them on a different pc. It could be that your mouse+keyboard receiver is starting to fail, but they're usually very simple devices that hardly fails, and when they do, they just stops working. It is something worth checking, though.
So test everything you can, especially those devices and if your pc works with different ones, and do it quick because the problem, if it's in the motherboard, can only get worse.
As others have suggested, it may also be the power supply, which maybe have a faulty +5V line (or even a different one), but in that case you might have noticed other problems as well. From the symptoms, I'd not bet on the PSU, but since I did not test the computer myself, it might be worth checking if all else fails. The easiest way is obviously by replacing it with a spare one, if you have a suitable one.
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It says i have to wait 3 more days to open a dispute, so i have to wait those 3 days, do it before? how does it work?
I contacted the seller and told him i don't think see it coming anymore, as someone from my country ordered it later and already got it. but said he wold put more pressure on the supplier (whatever that means) so should i wait that, just open a dispute after 3 days? It's just a few bucks, i rather get a refund and order it here (even though it's more expensive).
But according to you the sd thing running hot shouldnt be normal on 2.0 (even with bad sd's?) maybe it short circuited the wifi and keyboard/mouse receiver as they were next to it? (maybe saying something crazy). I had the old wifi receiver replaced as it was dropping connections every time, the new one (2 months old) worked fine until a week ago, that it doesn't turn on wifi at start but only manually.
The problem can be a lot of things, so there a lot of things to try but since it happens only at cold boots i can't test it much what worked and what not, maybe i can test some hardware replacements like psu from my dads pc, but my case is 22kg+ and it's exceptionaly crazy warm a few days at 40c (we get a heat record today), so not gonna do much heavy stuff today and will look into it in the weekend.
Will see if he has the same keyboard/mouse receiver as me.
Stuff is all under warranty being new, just being without will suck as offcourse i dont have that replacement.
Think i will just throw back my clean backup (without steam stuff) from may/june if that would work again then it's definitely some drivers.
I always tend to forget things though (like favorites or games that put a save in the registry).
Those big windows 10 updates do tend to bodge up a lot of things for people, like i couldn't get edge working anymore, not even after removing it (through some hoops) and reinstalling.
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How annoying. Only thing I can suggest is taking a look at the support page for your motherboard and making sure you have the latest BIOS and drivers (all of them, not just USB drivers) installed. There may also be a BIOS setting for legacy USB support that you can experiment with. Good luck.
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Will go dig deeper in the bios (Asus maximus hero 10 one is extensive) thanks.
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Odds are this isn't the case, but with USB 3.0 ports, you might have an issue of Windows 10 shutting them off or just giving them less power due to a power-saving feature that's enabled by default.
Turn this off and see what happens. I couldn't use my USB 3.0 external HDD because of that. Had to transfer with the slow 2.0 connection for a long time, thinking that the device was broken.
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Thanks, i was already looking at it's power saving too, but seems to be more about when things do work and then suddenly not any more or slow like your hdd rather then it not working at all on a cold boot and then fine for the remainder of the day.
Maybe they do give my devices not enough power though, but why would the issues occur now suddenly, can always try it though.
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thinking about "power":
have you had the "impression" your device was kinda "unstable" "intermittent", like they didn't have "enough power"?
(i'm really just speculating, really ignorant when it comes to hardware. ...and software! :P)
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Nope after it's morning cure it keeps on running fine.
It's basically just me after waking up, and incapable of much of anything, slowly until i had 2 cups of tea.
I got about 14 computer related certificates (6 from Mamma Microsoft, rest on bachelor level). ;)
Still computers can be fickle i learned and as Cunin said can be anything.
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I have the same problem Lugum.
I am an expert and don't found a reason for it but i found a bit of a solution.
Because i use a PC that i don't buyed and build together by my own i don't invest much time into the hardware stuff. I plan to change the PC "soon", with good hardware i will not have such crap.
Sometimes the internet don't work if i connect something at all USB ports, sometimes the internet work but the transfer rates to the extern HDDs are very slow and sometimes all are fine.
I found out that it is only a problem if i use all USB ports. If i don't use one of them (one of the front usb 2 ones) all are fine.
Maybe try that out and put there only something that you need only from time to time (as example a extern HDD).
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a problem if i use all USB ports
thank you. i have one of those usb hubs always plugged in, and it seems to act weirdly, at times. (<-- please do note the much TECH analysis done)
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Only wifi (now in the back) and mouse/keyboard are in the front, and those are things you just always have turned on. ;)
2 are empty, i rarely hook up hdd's and i always remove them after no use because the sound bugs me.
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It could also be a problem with the drivers, which until you reconnect them again the PC doesn't recognize them.
I recently had that problem when I connected a TV as a monitor. At first it worked fine, but after a few months I wanted to connect it again and there was no way for the PC to recognize the TV speakers to get the sound out there. After checking that it's not a hardware problem, I decided to uninstall the sound drivers and restart the PC with the TV connected (so directly windows reinstalled them), and as soon as I turned on the PC I recognized them without problems.
You could try to do the same with the wifi receiver and the mouse/keyboard.
Edit: you could also try to connect the wifi receiver and the mouse / keyboard receiver on the back of the tower (the front usb might not work properly)
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Sorry didn't reply before but tried it, starting to look more its something hardware.
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Try to boot in safe mode and check if it still happens. It's most likely a driver/software conflict. You can also try a restore point from before that issue started manifesting (just be sure you won't lose important stuff you added in the meantime).
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Thanks will try that, i usually tend to not have restore points, i do have a backup though (without the steam stuff), but takes more work.
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You could try tinkering with the USB settings on the bios. Legacy sometimes causes trouble, and there are a couple of extra settings like EHCI and XHCI that might cause an issue when booting and take a couple of unplugs to be set to the corresponding "auto" setting that works in your version of windows.
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And all those extra settings (and in this asus maximus hero there are a lot of settings) most i don't know what they all do, back in the DOS days when a bios was still simple.
Thanks, will try.
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weird
try safe mode, if anything is fine, then there's faulty driver. usb driver should be easily uninstalled (no need to reinstall since usually windows should find it again)
or try to "reset" bios, usually nobody tinker with it so i think it's fine unless you've heavily OC your pc
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Thanks will try.
And i don't have it OC not even a little bit, i wouldn't know what i be doing, too many options.
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btw, once you're fixed it. no matter how weird (ie just suddenly fixed) don't forget to post back. you can support community by doing that. who knows in 1-2 year someone stumble upon same "bug" and then he does what you do and it works. that helps a lot
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Will do, i had some graphic card stuff some years ago, and it helped someone too here.
Just that it happens on cold boots only, might take some days to see what fixes it (if i can find it).
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After reading all the posts here there is one that is left, but its really last chance idea.
Check "services" for a usb host controller loading under a delayed start state.
Also, delete all usb host controllers in device manager and let windows rediscover them and load all new drivers and registry keys.
Good luck hope you get it fixed.
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This is small compact receiver or the big one hanging on a cable? If it's the last one - maybe cable is damaged? Try to plug in different device if you have one and see if it has the same problem.
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Small one with a green blinking light to show if it's working.
https://www.tp-link.com/us/home-networking/usb-adapter/tl-wn823n/
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Not a cable then. Just most of my problems with mouse I ever had were caused by damaged cable :)
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Oh you meant mouse i showed the wifi one but yeah mouse is also very small. I used to have one of those too with cables (was always in the way). But yeah broken cables can always happen. :)
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I remember i had a similar problem and had to check power consumption of the USB root.
In Win7 I was able to see that on device Manager. With Win10 you need another tool.
After reading this I tried USBDeview.
It gives you lots of infos maybe you find something interesting like a device having a high power consumption or so.
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also don't forget to update the mainboard's usb drivers, the wi-fi drivers and maybe even the bios.
you could check the windows event log to see if there are any events about drivers failing to load or something similar.
my money would be on the wi-fi stick. my sister's age old wifi stick started to stop working under heavy load every now and then some time ago. pulling it out and putting it back in "fixed" the problem. we updated the drivers and so far it seems to work. however that stick is so old it's even marked as "end of life" already so if the problem shows up again we'll need to get a new one and toss the old d-link stick in the trash.
and don't worry about that heat incident. as long as you didn't melt the plastic all is fine. also the human skin is no thermometer. anything above ~40°C feels like it's going to burn you.
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Yeah didn't think to check the event log, can do that.
I don't know when those tp link sticks were made but bought it 2 months ago, i also had problems with the previous one (same stick) dropping it's connection every time the whole day through but the stick was also a bit crooked, for 20 bucks just went with a new one and the connection drop was gone.
The plastic didn't melt, only the metal was hot.
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Some ideas:
- Bios settings.
- Motherboard is failing and does not send or get info from front panel.
- Power supply is failing or is not giving enough power when it boots up a PC so front panel does not get power at startup.
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Are you using the motherboard manufacturer drivers? or windows generic ones, the generics can cause devices to power off/on several times in succession and then stop working until reboot. Suggest checking the motherboard website and reinstalling their drivers for usb if at all possible.
multiple driver installs can also cause windows 10 to revert back to its famous unicorn drivers, might be worth trying to reinstall the manufacturer ones
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Heyyo Lugum, I don't have any legit advice, mine barely work either, just wanna say try blowing it real hard to get some dust out....sometimes it helps for mine....
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Computer is 1 1/2 year old so offcourse while possible it makes the chances on hardware failure a bit smaller.
Anyway i got a keyboard/mouse receiver and wifi receiver plugged in the front of the case, there are 2x usb 2 and 2x usb 3 ports, no matter where they are plugged in i keep getting the same results that when lately when i turn on my computer the mouse/keyboard and wifi usually don't go on unless i remove and reinsert the receivers a few times, and then it will work fine throughout the rest of the day.
It all worked fine for a good 1 1/2 year before, and i don't know what it could be (except a hardware issue) and what to do about it, so if someone has any ideas.
Plugging the mouse/keyboard receiver in the back of the case, i always tend to get input lag.
Running on windows 10.
Also like 2-3 months ago i was fiddling with SD cards through an USB reader and i had 2 instances that they become very hot (not just warm, like burn your hand hot). Apparently that happens when a SD card is faulty, is it possible for such heat to break something with the usb (contacts)?
Could the NVIDIA Usb controllers interfere (and the problems occured after one of it's updates and combined with ASMedia and Intel controllers)?
I have moved the wifi to the back, will know what it does tommorow since the problem only occurs on cold boots.
[EDIT] After putting the wifi receiver in the back, then after a short while the keyboard/mouse froze (still seeing the cursor) unlike with the cold boot issue the cursor completely disappears, reinserting the keyboard/mouse receiver in another front usb port and it works again (for now).
[EDIT2] Had the wifi receiver in the back, woke up this morning, cold boot again both wifi and mouse/keyboard not working, but this time i couldn't get mouse/keyboard working at all no matter what port i tried front or even back, until i unplugged the xbox 360 controller (in the back) and then it started working again, controller works too. Makes it all appear there is some driver conflict or something.
But if a mouse/keyboard doesn't work i can't check device manager (don't have a wired keyboard/mouse).
I posted two event log screens below.
[EDIT3] Restored bios, could almost not even get into it anymore because keyboard was not working, did not help at all, restored computer backup, removed the keyboard driver and let it reinstall again, that does help a bit but the issue doesn't seem to completely disappear.
Then i surfed a bit, and then playing TF2 and then half game my character just kept moving on it's own in a straight line and my connection was dropped again, now just removing and plugging back the receiver one time however is enough, but annoying.
But also for the first day is that i start to notice when i watch YouTube stuff sometimes when a person speaks vs his/her mouth, it sometimes starts to go out of sync, if that is connected then maybe it will point to some hardware issue, psu, motherboard?
[EDIT4] I found my old keyboard/mouse (also a Logitech MK270 the same as this 8 month old one i have now) however even being the same type, just the receiver doesn't seem to work with the other set.
But the old keyboard/mouse (that mouse has some clicks not registering though) no matter what usb port i kept plugging it in it kept working, like it should be, while the new keyboard/mouse didn't, as it was under warranty i returned it to the store and takes some weeks.
In the meantime i just found myself into buying a more expensive keyboard and mouse and keep the replacement Logitech for some console stuff or backup.
Still not sure if it was a coincidence that just 2 months ago i had to replace the wifi receiver too, and if something short circuited, or that it was just bad luck.
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