*NO MORE SUGGESTIONS/ENTRIES PLEASE! I've already ordered a 760w Seasonic platinum PSU and a Ducky Shine 3

So I got an unexpected windfall today and even after ordering a 39" 4K TV and a second GTX 770 to help power it I still have plenty of dough left over. So the two things I'm thinking of upgrading are my keyboard, and my PSU.

As far as keyboards, I had been using a Razer BlackWidow (which features cherry MX blue switches), but it's currently being RMAed due to a faulty cable. I figure when I get the replacement back I can use it on my "guest" computer and buy myself the top-shelf keyboard I should have bought in the first place (please, learn from my example and don't buy Razer). For my next keyboard I'm looking to (probably) move to Cherry MX brown switches, and I'm also looking for a detachable cable with PS/2 option, and backlit keys - preferably multicolor programmable ones. I know I've seen one (recently releases) mechanical with multicolored backlights but I can't remember who made it and I'm failing at google. I would also consider a board with white or red lights, but please don't lowball me. I'm not interested in what mechanical keyboard you have that's "good enough," I want the best. I want the mechanical keyboard that will make me scoff at all other mechanical keyboards and if necessary I'm willing to shell out $200 or more.

I would also like to upgrade my PSU, which is currently a very adequate Cooler Master 750watt bronze number. I want something modular (partial is fine), and of course with the juice to run two GPUs, but I must admit that the whole OEM situation mystifies me. I know I don't need more that a 650-750 watt PSU, but I will admit that the whole world of power supply OEMs is a bit opaque to me.

THE GIVEAWAY: This is what you all clikced on the thread for, right? Well before you post your kneejerk opinion let me tell you how this is going to work. I plan to order my new keyboard (and maybe PSU) sometime in the next few days. Assuming I get enough responses, I will create a private giveaway for Far Cry 3 (already purchased and in my inventory) and send the link to everyone who I felt provided an original and useful response.

EDIT: since they keyboard is the bit I'm having the most trouble finding, let me reiterate in as simple terms as possible what I want:

Mechanical switches - totally non negotiable. I'm pretty set on browns, but I also like blues and could maybe go that way if it was a good enough board.

LED backlights - must be per key programmable, ideally multicolor. If single color then must be either white or red.

Cable - detachable is a must, PS/2 a major plus

Other features - I don't give a shit. Extra buttons are neat an blah blah blah, but I never use them. Just as long as it's got N-key rollover.
Backlit keys

EDIT AGAIN: Unfortunately there were too many good responses for my to invite you all individually so I'll just have to put the giveaway here. I'm sure some unscrupulous folks who didn't even contribute will enter anyway, but such is life. http://www.steamgifts.com/giveaway/lH62V/far-cry-3

1 decade ago*

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Don't know anything about keyboards, so I'll leave that topic alone. :) Actually I don't know much about power supplies either, so when I'm shopping for one I poke around places like hardocp and jonnyguru. Hopefully someone else can give some better suggestions, good luck! :)

1 decade ago
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I'd check harwaresecrets for reviews of any PSU units you're interested in as well. They are meticulous about their PSU reviews.

1 decade ago
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Most power supplies are built by the same few companies such as Seasonic, CWT, Super Flower, etc (OEMs). Other companies then have these companies build PSUs for them or just rebrand reference designs under their own brand such as Corsair, OCZ, Cooler Master, etc.

Decided to add a little bit more. Brand doesn't really matter unless you're talking about which company built the PSU in question. You'll often find that different PSUs within the same brand are sourced from different manufacturers unless it's being sold by the OEM. I'm biased towards Seasonic or Super Flower mostly. 80+ isn't a huge thing either to be honest. Some companies even send different platforms in for qualification and then sell a different unit on the market. In general just make sure you buy a unit that's been well reviewed.

If you're set on upgrading and won't be using more than 2 graphics card, one of these would be good. 1 2

Edit: I know a decent bit about keyboards but since I personally hate Cherry switches, I'll just recommend the OCN forums which I've found to have the best forums for peripherals.

1 decade ago
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I'm currently leaning towards Seasonic, just because they build their own. Dual GPUs is as far as I will be going with this particular build, since it's all my MoBo will support. If I had money to burn I'd probably be going for dual 780Ti, but I don't.

1 decade ago
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Yea Seasonic makes quality stuff. The Corsair I linked has a longer warranty (7 years vs 5 years) and is the exact same as another Seasonic 760W PSU that's a bit more expensive and based on a newer platform.

750W will be fine for any dual GPU setup except for R9 290 crossfire which I would say needs 800W minimum.

1 decade ago
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Corsair, Cooler Master and OCZ (edit: almost forget about OCZ) are the brands that I trust for PSU's, I'll assume you already know that you need a Bronze or higher certified PSU, I can't stress enough on how you shouldn't skimp on a PSU, the price doesn't matter only the quality does, because if that PSU goes it can take your entire setup with it. Before you make a decision on a PSU, be sure to read a few reviews from newegg or a similar website to see the amount of RMA's it roughly has, I've found Corsair and Cooler master to have very few in comparison to some of the other brands.

I honestly know next to nothing about keyboards, I'm just a PC builder and I know the brands that I've had bad times with and the brands that haven't ever failed me. (Stay the hell away from Diablo Tek and other OEM PSU's, they're terrible.)

EDIT: Also, I already own Farcry 3, I'd just hate to see someone with a dual GPU setup get torn down from a bad PSU.

1 decade ago
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Again: my current PSU is a Cooler Master 750watt bronze. I know it's probably good enough for my forthcoming SLI setup, but I'd like to clean up my case a bit by going modular and while I'm at it I'd like to get the best, longest lasting PSU I can.

1 decade ago
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hx850m corsair

1 decade ago
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Pretty sure I don't need that much juice, but I'll consider the 750w version.

1 decade ago
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What are you planning to SLI because 750w will likely barely be enough for 2 cards even without your cpu and anything else added to the load.

1 decade ago
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I'll be running a pair of Gigabyte Windforce GTX 770s, 4GB. With an i7 3770k.

You should check out this video of actual real world testing of a similar build to my current (single GPU) setup. TL/DW: with a GTX 680 and i7 3770 (plus a shitload of fans), you'll barely pull more than 300 watts at full load. I doubt adding a second GPU would more than double the power usage.

1 decade ago
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I'd say you go for an XEX or Corsair Power supply's,XEX Is cheap,but it dosen't fail,i've been using an XEX 400w PSU for 4 years now,no failures,but if you have cash to spend go for 80+ certified gold corsair cpus :D

1 decade ago
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Blood Dragon is better in every way, you say it yourself. I have no advice to give, just the best of luck in finding the ultimate kb.

1 decade ago
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Yup, but vanilla FC3 has a lot more gameplay to it, and I was able to pick it up for 7.50 in the encore sale. I actually wasn't sure how I was going to give it away until I hit on the idea of holding it hostage for tech support ;)

1 decade ago
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I just ordered a Ducky keyboard, a Zero DK2108S with brown switches and orange backlight. It doesn't have all the features you want, but the Shine 3 DK9008 looks like it does (except it has USB instead of PS/2). I got the cheaper one because I didn't need all the fancy features.
Duckys have a reputation for being extremely solid. I tried one out in a store and it did feel like it was built like a tank.
If you want I can tell you more when mine gets here around the 22nd (I ordered it from China, haha).

1 decade ago
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I'm leaning towards Ducky, if nothing else grabs my attention.

1 decade ago
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You should definitely take pink one.

1 decade ago
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I bought a CM Quickfire Pro instead of the Ducky I was eyeballing. I really wish I'd have spent the extra $ on a Ducky now. They really are as good as everyone says and they are just beautiful boards to boot.

1 decade ago
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I'm also looking for a mechanical keyboard lately, and I think I found the best fitting one for me. It's the cooler master quickfire ultimate, it comes with brown or blue switches (at least those are available for me). It is fully backlit but the color is 'chosen' with the color of the switches. In US layout brown switches come with white backlight. It does not have the feature to be programmable but it has different modes for it's backlight. It has a detachable USB cable and I'm sure you can connect it via a PS/2 adapter. Here a link.

PSU.. SO... im using a be quiet! And I really like it. It doesn't heat up at all and it's quiet!
I'll recommend you the STRAIGHT POWER E9 | 700W it has a 80+ Gold certification and should have enough juice. If you want one with cable management the is the STRAIGHT POWER E9 | 680W CM with a little bit less W.

If there are any typos.. Sorry, I wrote this on my mobile.

1 decade ago
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so i have a Logitech G19s keyboard and i'm very happy with it. You can change the color of your keys into anything you like, and you can save up to 3 different color profiles. the latest patch for the LCD screen gives you a lot of extra options like in game stats for popular games like League of Legends and World of Warcraft. Also it uses a profile selector which can be used to instantly select different profiles for every game you play. It can also display how much you CPU is using, display your FPS if you have fraps, or play video's through Youtube etc. But if you don't care about the LCD screen you can always check the options below.

Here are some other options i hear are very good:

CM Storm QuickFire TK A simple mechanical keyboard with no macro keys but nice for casual gaming.

Corsair Vengeance K95 mechanical keyboard. If you want a shitload of macro keys on you are better off
getting this one, it's amazing!

Logitech G710+ insanely fast mechanical keyboard from logitech with macro keys. i highly recommend this one.

Rosewill Apollo RK-9100xB Blue Backlit Mechanical Keyboard I don't know much about this one, all i know is that people really like it!

Azio Levetron Mech5 Mechanical Gaming Keyboard This thing looks amazing and a bit over the top. but it should be a nice thing with a lot of extra options.

That's all the keyboards i know by name right now, i hope this helps!

1 decade ago
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If the feel of the keystroke matters to you much, I'd steer away from the G710+. It's a combination mechanical/rubber dome switch, so while it has some of the advantages of a mechanical switch throw it still feels spongy and cheap to me.

The Corsair K95 is a VERY nice board, though last I saw they were somewhat limited on what switch type you could get with it, so if you don't want a Cherry MX Red switch (I prefer brown or blue), then this may not be an acceptable option for you, though the K70 does finally come in blue and brown as well as red.

1 decade ago
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Thanks for the heads up about the logitech, I didn't know they weren't pure mech.

1 decade ago
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I've had my Blackwidow for years and mine is still kicking, unfortunate that yours is having issues. Honestly, I like my keyboard, but I'm probably gonna end up replacing it soon for something better.

That being said, if I had to buy a new keyboard right this moment, I'd probably go with the CM Storm Quick Fire Ultimate (Friend of mine highly recommends it) or the TT esports MEKA G-Unit. (White version, probably, I think it looks the best out of all of the others.)

1 decade ago
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Definitely looking at CM Storm, as I've been positively impressed by a couple of their cases and have generally found the basic Cooler Master brand to be a reliable source of high quality but reasonably priced parts.

1 decade ago
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If you're considering CM, get the Ultimate instead of the Pro. The pro is only partially backlit. Basically just the left hand keys are backlit. Ultimate is full backlight.

1 decade ago
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When you pick a PSU you need to take mainly two things into consideration: build quality and optimal performance.

While 750W would be enough, since you're deciding to upgrade your PSU it wouldn't hurt get a little bit more powerful PSU, and generally speaking at lease a 850W PSU is recommended for a GTX 770 SLI setup. You never know if some time you decided to upgrade your video cards or overclock your CPU. Also, you could tell us the rest of your rig so we get a better idea of how much power demanding it will be. Also, there is capacitor aging you should take into consideration if you plan to keep your PSU for 1-2+ years and depending of how much you use your computer everyday (24/7, etc). With time part of the wattage capacity is lost because of the electrolytic capacitor aging.

Lets suppose your system demands 350-45W under heavy load, the ideal situation is that your PSU handles well that load in the highest/optimal efficiency. PSUs typically reach the highest efficiency at typical load (50% nominal wattage range), so, a 700-850W PSU would be recommended. You should not get a power supply that is far beyond or below the expected power consumption / optimal range, although newer PSUs handle low, normal and high loads pretty well keeping very good efficiency levels.

As others said, brand is really not important, but the model/manufacturer beneath it. In my personal experience I recommend the Corsair PSUs. In general, Corsair picks good OEM manufacturers for their retail PSUs, and their support service is great and usually long time warranty coverage. Ever since I changed to Corsair PSUs I only had problem with one unit, and while it wasn't originally the PSUs fault what caused the problem, Corsair made no objection to exchange it.

I check the reviews, try to look for similar options, if other models don't offer great advantage over Corsair counterparts I pick Corsair. Depending on your system specs I would recommend a Corsair AX860i or HX850. The real drawback of Corsair PSUs are their price. But with PSU you shouldn't go cheap if you're thinking about building a high end gaming system.

Keep in mind that if you never used modular PSUs also note that adding a new point of attachment/connection, the modular cables, is adding another resistance point to the circuit, so always make sure everything is perfectly fit as you can run into problems. Regardless or modular or not, you will need to do cable management, for better organization, esthetics and airflow, being modular just make less cables being present lying at the bottom of your case.

1 decade ago
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"PSUs typically reach the highest efficiency at typical load (50% nominal wattage range)"

Do you have a citation for that? It seems contrary to everything I've read, which suggest optimal efficiency tends to be around 90% of capacity.

1 decade ago
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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Power_supply_unit_(computer)#Efficiency

Sorry about no direct link but steamgifts formatting breaks it. But anyways, if you look at the reviews at jonnyguru, you can see the efficiency at different loads and it is indeed highest around 50-75%. The thing is, with the super high efficiency PSUs on the market now, it doesn't change very much from 20% to 90% loads. The platinum rated Corsair AX760 for example, has a minimum efficiency around 88% and peaks around 92%.

1 decade ago
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Pull up any PSU review on hardwaresecrets.com (my trusted place for PSU reviews since they actually pick the units apart and do extensive electrical testing on each unit) and you'll see from the load testing data that the 40-50% range is going to yield the highest efficiency.

1 decade ago
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See what AloXX pointed above.

Also, you can easlily see this by picking a model at the 80 Plus site, and check the test report, you will see the efficiency curve and it's higher at typical load (50%).

I also forgot to mention that often some retailers switch the OEM model they were selling, keeping the same retail model name or making little distinction.

Seems to be the case of the AX860i vs AX860 as there are two reports with different model part numbers:
AX860i 75-001303
AX860 75-001305

Sometimes this is hard to tell, unless a different model part number or revision version is shown in the box/PSU.

1 decade ago
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Cool, you folks are actually making me glad I created this thread. Learning! Not necessarily making my decision any easier, but learning!

1 decade ago
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It's always better to learn and pass knowledge on than to simply point out something without much reason behind it. While it might not be exactly simple at the begining, it will start to make sense once you start reading more about it.

Also, I recommended the AX860i, but thats because I'm "geeky" and it includes a little gimmick Corsair calls "Corsair Link", it's a monitoring/control feature for you to use with a software, nothing really necessary. The AX860i has it, while the AX860 doesn't.

Also, the Cooler Master V seems to be the same model as the AX860 built by Seasonic.
Corsair AX 860 W > http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Corsair/AX860/4.html
Cooler Master V Series 850 W > http://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/CoolerMaster/V850/4.html

So you might want to check that too, and it's cheaper than Corsair. Some say that the Corsair has a "whine" noise while the CM doesn't. "Whine" noise would be annoying high pitched noise that some PSUs have on higher loads. For some users it's audible, for others it's barely noticeable or they simply can't hear it.

1 decade ago
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I'm liking the sound of this "corsair link," it's making me nostalgic for my first IT job which basically ended up being "UPS management technician"

1 decade ago
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Stop wasteing money on stupid things and use ur current RIG

1 decade ago
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Okay, right after you stop wasting your time on stupid comments.

1 decade ago
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I am saying he dsnt need to upgrade thats all xD he just wants to waste cash

1 decade ago
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My (interesting you assume I'm male) current build does work fine. But it could be better. It's a hobby, it isn't supposed to be practical. For the record I also make it a point to donate at least 10% of what I spend on stupid shit for myself (And I lay out a lot more dosh on bicycles than I do on computers lemme tell ya) to support children I'll never meet.

But I'm sure you've never bought so much as an espresso that you didn't need.

1 decade ago
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Similarly, you don't "need" any more car than your '94 Honda Civic DX, but you'd probably want to waste some cash on that RX8 in your profile icon.

Everyone enjoys spending their money on something different. That's all. If he like upgrading PC parts, then that's what he will spend his discretionary funds on. If you prefer buying intakes, exhaust, tires, wheels, and so on for your car so you can get from point A to point B 4 seconds faster and sounding more like a kazoo, then you'll spend your extra money on that and it's fine too.

1 decade ago
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A device that you'll be using pretty much 100% of the time when using computer is stupid thing?

1 decade ago
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I am saying he dsnt need to upgrade thats all xD he just wants to waste cash

he current build will work well

1 decade ago
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People have cash, want better, welcome to the world. :-D

1 decade ago
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My knowledge about hardware is a bit outdated coz today i use a laptop, but i got pretty good experience with a Corsair TX750 and some CM, so i'd probably go for a Corsair AX860 or a Cooler Master V850 - high qualitty, modular and so on.
What about keyboard: right now i use Logitech G15v1. It is about 6 years old and works just perfectly, but if i had to change it i'd buy again Logitech, and it would be a G710+: made for gaming, mechanical, and with CMX brown switches...but overall kinda simple, so if you want an uber safisticated one then take a look on Mad Catz S.T.R.I.K.E. 7 or S.T.R.I.K.E. 5.
Good luck with the upgrade! ;-)

1 decade ago
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The only uber sophistamacated feature I'm really interested in is multicolor programmable LEDs. Other than that, a few spare keys for macros might be nice, but I honestly have never used the ones I have. The G710s is probably about as "feature rich" as I want to go.

I'm really just hoping someone will point me to that sweet multicolor job I saw on youtube. I know it was from a reputable manufacturer, but I can't find it for the life of me.

1 decade ago
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is this the video you are thinking of? According to this article we should expect to see something at CES 2014 in the next week.

1 decade ago
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No, this was a hand on review of a real keyboard. I saw it at least a month ago but it's possible it still isn't out.

Maybe I'll just end up settling for something with red or white lights, but I'd love to be able to change the color to suit my mood.

1 decade ago
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the only adjustable RGB multicolor keyboards i've seen are Steelseries APEX and ROCCAT ISKU FX, but they are both membrane keyboards.

1 decade ago
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Careful with the TX series. They've repeatedly had years with high failure rates. The HX and AX series from Corsair have been quite brilliant though, especially the more efficient AX.

Side note to n3m, I LOOOOOOOOOOOVED my G15v1 for about a decade until I accidentally killed it with some soda :(. I bought a mechanical keyboard to replace it and could not be happier. I didn't really know what all the fuss was about, but I'm not sure I could go back now even for all the macro buttons and LCD displays in the world. It's not just snobbish elite epeening when people talk about mech switches being better. I'm hugely skeptical/cynical about hardware/peripheral fads and I am REALLY convinced mech boards are better :P

1 decade ago
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Yeah, I'm typically pretty cynical about this sort of thing but I could never go back to a membrane. Well, I'm using one right now waiting for my replacement from Razer and it feels squishy and awful. I would recommend the shittiest mechanical over any membrane, any day.

1 decade ago
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Sadly, I'll never be able to spend less than $80 on a keyboard again (which pains me since I'm the cheap type). That said, I'd reiterate what I mentioned in a previous comment about the Logitech G710 if you don't like the squishy keystroke. They just plain feel awful (which also pains me since I'm a LONG time Logitech user/fan).

1 decade ago
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You may want to look at Max Keyboard who have a range of keyboards and offer customization options too. Personally I am happy with my CM Storm Trigger but it may not be quite what you are after.

In terms of power supplies I would suggest looking at Corsair's range. They certainly had a good reputation last time I was looking for a PSU.

1 decade ago
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+1 for Max Keyboards

I was looking at their products, as well as Roccat and Ducky's Shine series. I decide on Max due to the superior build quality over Roccat and the superior price/feature ratio over Ducky.

1 decade ago
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Manufacturers I generally trust: SeaSonic, Corsair, Antec, PC Power and Cooling, Silverstone, and sometimes Cooler Master.
Of that list, my most trusted are SilverStone and SeaSonic.
The others have some series that are excellent but some that are not on par. For example, Corsair makes some great PSUs (AX line is outstanding and HX is very good too), but they also have a TX line that can be hit and miss and then a base model line or two that generally aren't for someone putting good money parts into a system.
If you stick with these brands, just get the highest efficiency unit you can and the quality typically follows suit with efficiency.
I LOVE my SilverStone Strider Gold 850W unit.

For keyboard, I'd highly recommend Ducky, Corsair (depending on which switch you want since they mostly offer MX Red), Das Keyboard, and Cooler Master.
Macro keys and LCD screens (like some Logitech models) are things you'll find much less often with mech boards. If you HAVE to use them there are always software macro management applications you can use certainly, though having had a G15v1 I can certainly understand wanting dedicated keys for macros. Gigabyte makes a mech board that comes with red or brown switches and has dedicated macro keys (link). It was recommended to me by a friend who uses one, but I never got a chance to personally try it out.

1 decade ago
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Does the keyboard, apart from being mechanical, having a detachable USB/PS2 cable and having multicolored backlit programmable keys, also need to be able to bring peace to the world and cure cancer?

1 decade ago
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You forgot "Will it blend?"

1 decade ago
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Of course it wouldn't. It's the ultimate keyboard, after all; it should be indestructible as well.

1 decade ago
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For $200 I want it to be able to earn a 4 star crash test rating from the US Department of Transportation

1 decade ago
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I'll pay extra if it comes with FULL COMMUNISM.

1 decade ago
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So a cyrillic layout?

1 decade ago
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If I wanted that I'd just get a Das and a paint pen.

1 decade ago
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I've got a Cooler Master CMStorm Trigger. I love it. Backlit, Cherry MX Browns (but they come in Blues, too), macro keys, built in USB ports, and generally a very sturdy feeling.

For the PSU, I'd say get an 850 or better PSU if you've absolutely gotta update it. I wouldn't settle for less than Silver certification, but that's just me.

1 decade ago
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dude if you gonna buy second GPU take GTX 780Ti it's the best right now even maybe your stuff will cost just wait few more time & get the greatest stuff so you don't need to change them everytime & for PSU buy 850-1200W then no need to change it too :)

1 decade ago
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Do you even know how SLI works? The 780Ti is probably the best GPU on the market right now, and If I were in the market for a single GPU I would totally buy one. But I already have nice gaming rig with a single 770, and room for another. A 780Ti costs $700, but I got my second 770 for less than $400, and any benchmark you find will tell you that two 770s still beat any single gpu on the market.

1 decade ago
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Hm, last mechanical kboard I have read about is this.

As far as PSUs go, you should find out how much of energy your hardware eats. One 770 under load takes around 300 watts, high end CPU + couple of hdd's and some peripherals could make another 200 under load, that makes it 500. I am not completely sure how the cards behave in SLI, but it will certainly add up another 200-300 watts.

And apparently the best option is for your hardware's consumption to amount to around 60% of your PSU capacity. You should imo get something between 1000-1200 W.

1 decade ago
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Thats just my opinion, but you should get a Gold/Platinum Efficiency PSU, you save a few bucks on the energy bill and they produce less excess heat.

1 decade ago
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Yeah, I'm leaning that way. I'm really kind of a cheap bastard, but being a smart cheap bastard means knowing when to lay out a little extra now to guard against unforeseen catastrophes later.

I actually don't pay for electricity in my current apartment (owning two gaming PCs I should probably start mining bitcoins or something, right?), but being a proper treehugging lefty I try not to use more of anything than I have to. I actually underclock my system most of the time (it helps offset the guilt generated by buying it;D).

1 decade ago
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Well, if you don't want to be a cheap bastard, here you go: SeaSonic Platinum 1000W

1 decade ago
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2nd this ^

Like I mentioned above, Seasonic is one of my top PSU brands and their Platinum line is absolutely brilliant. They're certainly good enough to warrant the price.

1 decade ago
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1 decade ago
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Doesn't seem to offer color options. If not multicolor the only acceptable backlights are white or red.

1 decade ago
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I only have a 550 watt but they have much better. The connector options are outrageous and I believe they have a lifetime warranty. I have had no problem with noise from my machine. I believe this unit is better than "good enough".

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ww2Tk1gg0Pw

1 decade ago
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I don't know anything about keyboards, but I can help you with PSU.
-If you want cuality/price, buy that one http://www.pccomponentes.com/aerocool_strike_x_power_800w.html
800W, 80 plus silver, semi-modular and with lot of connections

Corsair and Seasonic made the best PSU. Aerocool is algo good :D

1 decade ago
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I'm a huge fan of Corsair's AXi line.

If you want to go for 2 or 3 GPUs, Try this one, a 1200w platinum rated full modular.

This PSU will power a a single top-end GPU or a pair of mid to mid-high range GPUs.

For a PSU with very quiet fans, Cooler Master's Silent Pro series has models appropriate for single or dual GPU rigs. Silverstone's Nightjar series is even quieter due to not even having fans, but they're only suitable for single GPU rigs.

An OEM product just means it doesn't come in a retail box. You'll be lucky to get an instruction manual and a driver disc, but those are nearly always available online. They just come in an antistatic bag and/or a plain box, probably with no logos. It's a great way to save money if you know what you're doing but want to save a little money. Skip OEM if you want to have a nice box to display on the shelf. I try to go OEM when I can if it's cheaper, because the quality is perfectly identical to the retail boxed version.


As for mechanical keyboards, I wish I could help you out with first-hand recommendations. I want one too, but still haven't picked one out. Still doing research.

I'm looking closely at Ducky models from mechanicalkeyboards.com ever since I tried one. They're not trying to be fancy at all, and well priced. No marketing gimmicks from what I can tell.

I've tried some switches, and have settled on Cherry MX Browns. The actuation point in a Brown switch is around halfway to bottoming out, which means I don't have to bottom out the key to get it to activate.

For detachable cables, they're a bit hard to find. Cooler Master makes one, but I haven't tried it so I can't attest to build quality. I hear only good things though, other than 'overpriced.'

I'm also REALLY liking this keyboard.

1 decade ago
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I'm looking real hard at ducky right now. The biggest issue I see is that the Shine 3 doesn't seem to be in stock at any of the big retailers. Anyone have a tip on where to buy?

1 decade ago
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That's my favorite Ducky at the moment. I'm only finding it on eBay. One seller from Hong Kong sells them for 178.99 USD plus 29.99 shipping. Others sell, but not in nearly as much bulk or they sell for higher. But as with all purchases, beware buying from China, Singapore, Hong Kong, etc. Lots of counterfeit goods.

1 decade ago
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I went ahead and ordered the DS3 with brown switches and red LEDs. The seller seems legit, the only complaints they have are people who were unhappy with the shipping time. So I'm prepared to wait an extra week or two for it to clear customs if need be.

1 decade ago
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The keyboard you might be thinking is the upcoming Cherry MX RGB. I happened to write a small news item on my site on its reveal about a month back. [http://www.gamecrastinate.com/gaming-hardware/cherry-mx-rgb-reveal/

1 decade ago
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Yeah, I'm pretty sure that was it. Decided I didn't want to wait and went for the Ducky Shine 3.

1 decade ago
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There's plenty of good Cherry MX Brown keyboards around, multi-colour backlight is a bit less common though (I'm guessing because it adds a lot to the price). I'd suggest the Corsair Vengeance K70 but it only comes in blue backlight.
I think you can find something to your liking in Coolermaster's CMStorm Quickfire lineup though, they offer a choice of the 4 different MX Cherry switches and offer red backlight.

1 decade ago
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Closed 1 decade ago by dysomniak.