"First Gaming PC Build"
Woop, looks, like an overkill.(not really overkill) But you spent a lot of money. Kinda like my dream pc. :)
I suggest changing ram from DDR3-1600 to something more decent ---> ddr3/4-1600+ (ddr4 is better, btw, 1600 seems like too low.) On this build it's only ddr3, so maybe change motherboard, if you want ddr4, don't really know the drr3 to drr4 difference so maybe, it's no need. Just DDR3-1600+.
And i suggest you going to pcmasterrace reddit !!! for this question.
But yeah, i think you should go to the reddit, as they will give you more details. Don't really want to invest here too much, sorry. As i am not the best advisor.
And yeah change that ram, mate. as you could get this http://pcpartpicker.com/part/gskill-memory-f32400c11d16gsr
But i don't really know about the quality. As i said go to pcmasterrace reddit and they will explain and give you advice!!!
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If you dont know the difference, than dont tell people to get it when they are looking for suggestions.
DDR3-1600 is just fine for gaming. If he can get a higher rated ram for the same or similar price, then great, but dont drop an extra 20+ for an extra 2nano seconds of loading.
Even worse is suggesting OP get a DDR4 mobo and ram set an a 60+ additional cost for little extra benefit that could easily have been put into a graphics card or SSD.
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Actually, its pretty difficult to understand your post.
suggest changing ram from DDR3-1600 to something more decent ---> ddr3/4-1600+ (ddr4 is better, btw, 1600 seems like too low.)
Seems like a clear suggestion to move from 16GB of DDR3 to DDR4 which would be VERY expensive.
if you want ddr4, don't really know the drr3 to drr4 difference so maybe, it's no need.
Maybe you are asking if OP doesnt know the difference than he shouldnt bother, which I agree.
BTW, Gskill is a good quality brand, unless they have nose dived recently.
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selected G.Skill twice over the past 6 years - never once had a problem.
and yes, memory speed has been shown time and time again to gain negligible performance in gaming, even DDR4 over DDR3. however, if you can find faster for cheaper with a reputable brand, then why not. I normally go for the highest rated speed that the motherboard allows.
i do agree w/ the other about not needing an i7 for a gaming PC.
personally, i'd save on CPU and spend some more on a 250GB SSD and a slightly better and higher capacity PSU. never cheap out on the PSU.
OP, do you plan on doing anything other than gaming? like video editing?
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Something like this? http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Wz6r8d
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http://pcpartpicker.com/parts/memory/#t=11&Z=16384002&sort=a10&page=1&s=302133,302400
added to ram, but didn't remove old.
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/6g6DvK I think it's decent ram.
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Well that's pretty much what I said. If he is willing to OC then I can see why he would buy liquid cooling. If not he could go with an air cooler which is much cheaper. By no means I'd keep the stock cooler on such a CPU but the liquid one is kinda overkill if you don't intend to use it
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I think it's more than enough for this build... But then again I could be wrong... As i don't really know how to calculate the usage.
370 watts(cpu 88 Watts + gpu 250 Watts, made a little more, as overcloking) for cup+gpu max, so I think this power supply should be fine.
But maybe you should upgrade the power supply for future purposes.
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Personally, I would bump it up to 650+ just to be safe, but your choice in PSU is superb and is technically enough to power this rig. It doesn't leave you any real room to add on without needing to upgrade though. If you think you might buy a second card later down the line for SLI or you'll be using high end gaming keyboards with displays of their own, you should really think about going up another 100w or so.
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It looks like a beast of a computer, but one thing you really want to change.
Upgrade that RAM, DDR3-1600 is pretty slow overall and that board supports up to DDR3-3300(OC). I recommend at least DDR3-2400 just to do the system justice.
Here:
http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820231671
G.SKILL Ares Series 16GB (2 x 8GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 2400 (PC3 19200) Desktop Memory Model F3-2400C11D-16GAB
$90. Faster and cheaper.
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G.Skill...
might as well throw a monkey wrench in here concerning RAM..
Everyone knows about memory speed, timings, voltage, and channel interleave. These are the characteristics the industry wants the consumer to keep their focus on. Unfortunately, there's a dirty trick being played in the market right now on 4GB DIMM's surrounding a lesser known characteristic of memory performance; Rank Interleave.
Rank interleave, is another form of interleave, and can have a noteworthy effect on memory access performance, as it allows the memory controller to skip the waiting minimum cycle delay before initiating an operation on one rank, and begin writing or reading from a different rank in the interim. The effect of rank interleave, in terms of system performance, like any other single memory system memory characteristic, isn't massive, but is up to ~10% in some workloads (roughly equivalent to overclocking the memory from 1600MT/s to 2400MT/s on haswell), and based on my testing, gaming workloads are likely to fall into the category that is effected by rank interleave somewhat heavily, as these workloads have active data sets that don't fit within CPU caching.
Used to be, that almost all 4GB DIMM's were configured dual rank with the exception of very basic "value series" DIMM's configured with 4-bit wide components, so if you bought a 2 X 4GB kit, you would almost always have BOTH channel and rank interleave, "guaranteed" unless you bought the most basic "value" kits. Over the years, as the cost of higher density DDR3 chips came down, it became more cost effective to build 4GB DIMMs from the same component density being used to build 8GB DIMM's. This has resulted in a large number of 4GB DIMM's being silently transitioned to single rank configurations made up of 8 X 8-bit wide components. Thus, kits that used to be "performance class" memory, have been silently downgraded...
Unfortunately, G.Skill is one of the biggest offenders of this silent practice in recent years. It's actually bordering on fraud, as they submitted samples to reviewers configured dual rank years ago, and are now selling kits from the same "series" and in some cases, even with the same model numbers, configured single instead of dual rank.
I know that a lot of the Ripjaw X series and Ares series have been converted over to single rank to cut costs... Not sure about the Sniper series... It would be great if it were dual rank, as that would be an awesome performing kit, if not, it will be no better than a Ballistix Sport kit at 1600MT/s. Does the performance difference matter? Not much from a tangible/practical sense, but if you're going to be engaging in performance tuning because you are interested in trying your hand at it, you may be scratching your head as to why some of your performance numbers are coming up a few percentage points shy of other similar builds, and that could lead to some disgruntled feelings. (I would know, I've been there).
That brings me to a final point... At this time, its very hard to distinguish what is what. The ONLY company who has been very forthcoming about the component configuration of their consumer RAM is Kingston. Their data sheets clearly state the component configuration and rank configuration of all DIMM's they sell. Sadly, their 4GB DIMM's are all single rank right now... too bad, but at least they are being honest in this department (unlike their SSD department... eek).
Another company that has a fairly simple rule of thumb to follow is Crucial. If its DDR3 and has the name "Ballistix" on it, its a dual rank DIMM. Pretty simple. It was in fact, a very inexpensive Ballistix Sport kit running at 1600-9 that I found out-performing a Ripjaw X kit (that I paid about $20 more for at the time) running at 2133-9 in some workloads... Baffled, I began digging.. low and behold, single rank "fake" performance class memory.
Another way to guarantee to get 2 ranks installed per channel of your memory controller.. Buy a 2 X 8GB kit ;) . 8GB DDR3 DIMM's are all dual rank.
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I change something, http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Wz6r8d
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I suggest an i5 rather than the i7, and a 970 or 980 rather than a 980 TI unless you play intensive games at high resolutions. Upping the PSU will be needed for the TI to at least 650watts. 16GB ram is overkill for gaming, 8GB is the sweet spot. DDR3-1600 is fine, higher spec ram is better, but dont drop a ton of money looking for the highest spec ram your motherboard can support. You wont notice a drastic difference compared to spending that money towards a better SSD, or graphics card, or pretty much anything else first.
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Have you look http://www.reddit.com/r/PCMasterRace/wiki/builds for builds?
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I upgrade the power supply to 750w and change some stuff
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Wz6r8d
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i would sugest a better power supply, and downgrading to the i5, however everything else looks good, have fun
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i put 750w Power supply :D
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/Wz6r8d
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Really nice build.
Are you sure 120GB are enough for the OS and your games?! :D
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It's not like you are going to run every game on your SSD. It's basically for your OS, some programs and 2-3 games you regularly play. If you wanna use SSD to install games you'll need to install and uninstall games down the road. The only possible way to do otherwise would be to get a 1TB one but it's price is... well I'll let you find that yourself :D
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I'm running all my games from my SSD. =)
I found out 250GB is necessary and enough for me to allow diversity and avoid not finishing anything at all.
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I've got a 120GB one and I have 1 game installed (CS:GO),my OS, the usual programs you'll need and I have 25GB space left. Even with a 250GB one I can't see how you can install more than let's say 8-10 AAA games.
You can always uninstall and reinstall unless you play all of the simultaneously. (Unless you have capped internet and you can't download as much as you want)
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Exactly. I keep the games installed to a limit (the space limit), which allows me to actually play some of them to completion.
By "all my games" I wasn't implying "all my games in my library", just "my installed games". =P
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That's more like it! =)
Also, I believe the Samsung Evo to be much better than the Kingston V300.
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well, haven't read all the comments, so don't know.
but the CPU is overkill. i have i5 (a 3 yo one) and the only problem i have is with my GPU which is also 3yo. if you want to pay more be my guest, i think it's a waste of money,
i can run everything on highest setting, but not MMOing cause don't like it
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Do not recommend MSI Z97-G45 Gaming ATX LGA1150 Motherboard - read some articles, it have issues with chipset radiator, it's having an overheating problems. If you want MSI go for Gaming 3 - 5 - 7 - 9 series, they have another modification for radiator, and does not have overheating issues.
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focus on CPU and motherboard, graphic card you can always change every 2-4 years for a nice one that give you the enough power to run at max graphics all games. (you don't need a graphic card of 300$ when you can get one for 100$ and in 3 years another of 100$ and get the same power than the 300$ graphic card)
also get at least 8gb-16gb memory RAM
and obviously XBOX 360 controller (usb if posible have less problems, whit that controller you will never NEVER have any problem whit any PC game.)
also the box get a bigged one, the more big , better. (forget about that "gamer" box that cost 200$ and they are just shit, no more than name whit some lights)
2 terabite HDD or at least 2x 1 terabyte HDD
EDIT1: go to use intel + gforce
that's my tips for you
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You should update the build others have given you. I thought you were still looking at a horrible idea.
What monitor resolution are you looking for?
What is the primary use of the computer?
How much do you want to spend?
The most basic start when building computers are generally the current i5 series CPU and unlocked (k) if you want to overclock. Skylake is coming out soon, so you might want to hold out a bit.
The GPU will see future upgrades since that matters the most.
8 GB RAM minimum. 16 if you want to spend a little more and forget ever upgrading memory any further. Very handy.
The other stuff is when you have answers to the above questions.
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..but I really want a second opinion, since I've never built a PC before, and I would love for your input/ suggestions on how to improve it. Thanks in advance guys
PC:http://pcpartpicker.com/p/LhLPkL
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