I would uninstall Malwarebytes, it is using too much memory. And you should not use 2 browsers at the same time (IE and Firefox), modern browsers consume a lot of RAM.
A USB mouse can stutter or freeze for several reasons: too high CPU usage is the main one. USB mouses consume CPU cycles unlike PS/2 ones.
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partial +1
i'd just stop it from starting with windows and only run manual scans when necessary. but i agree it's eating up unnecessary ram.. i'd at least get more ram and stop so much stuff from starting with windows to being with if you're not quite ready to fully replace.
edit: start > run > msconfig (to alter startup applications)
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yeah that's what i mean. it's "real-time scanner" is only a 30day trial anyways and then it still just wants to run in the background after that trial even though it won't warn you or do anything for you. assuming they haven't purchased the malewarebytes pro anyways, in that case the real-time scanner would work, but clearly is harsh on memory usage.
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The thing is i have used Malwarebytes for months/years along always watching certain soaps in firefox and having IE with my mail open and steamgifts because i still find that browser more preferable (i know) without any problems until recent.
Firefox isn't always on but about 1 1/2 hour in the evening or mornings, and somehow also in my picture it takes up 2 instances (maybe 2 tabs, i don't know).
I could uninstall malwarebytes but iit always seem vital to me on top of an antivirus program (i use eset) and choices are limited, and i especially don't put much trust in those free versions, but what d3m4n said, i could not let it run in realtime but only run and scan when i choose so, would also eliminate that.
So in theory it should and can work but if 1x 2gb ram stick is failing (or cpu), or the ssd, then could be why i am seeing problems now.
I am using a wireless mouse.
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1 AV is more than enough, there's a lot of paranoia regarding viruses, worms, trojans... Remember: the best AV is the user himself. Windows OS uses UAC since Vista if I remember well, and that is the best protection against malware. If you allow an infected exe to run as admin you can have the best AV and get infected anyway.
If you have a bad memory stick you will probably suffer blue screens of death and/or random lockups. A wireless mouse uses an USB receiver so it's in fact a USB mouse, but wireless.
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Yeah but let's say it also depends on what the user does, about UAC that crap just asks for your input every single time you do something even something simple as installing something safe, that is so annoying, i just turn that off.
Also i have encountered several times things that a virus program would pick up sometimes and Malwarebytes don't and vice versa although a long time ago. Anti virus programmas do get better and have suites these days.
True it makes it a USB mouse.
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imo if you are not limited on storage, just run dualboot OS windows 7 & linux (whatever flavor u like). use linux for everything internet related, and windows for everything gaming related. :P
then no need for AV or Malware scans at all, and both sides run that much better
(windows runs smoother without any browsers or scanners of any type at all, and linux will run supremely well on that pc for all other usage really)
you sounds plenty knowledgeable enough and may even enjoy/prefer it after you try. i know i do. ^^
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well, i too hated root/sudo stuff at the beginning, but yeah after understanding why it functions that way it's much better. but if all they do really inside of linux is just firefox (&/or chrome/chromium), they shouldn't really ever need an elevated/root password except during updates.
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they shouldn't really ever need an elevated/root password except during updates.
Same as in Windows, you don't need to use elevated privileges unless you are installing something or running some old or badly programmed software which needs admin permissions.
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true really, but it comes up a lot more times even for the same instance of accepting in windows (would you like to allow it to run, would you like to allow it to update, would you like to run the updated version), however inside linux its a password instead of a click.. so kinda easier and harder balancing each other out i suppose.
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it comes up a lot more times even for the same instance of accepting in windows (would you like to allow it to run, would you like to allow it to update, would you like to run the updated version
Badly programmed software and/or installer/updater. You can use a password too for UAC in Windows: https://superuser.com/questions/1085680/windows-10-make-uac-always-require-password
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Aside from that UAC thing (and Orono disagreeing :p) i do have 7 Microsoft certificates making me a MCSE (never done anything with it though) and 8 other pc related ones, and 25 years of using a pc so i do have some knowledge, but that's all windows.
Tried Linux 2 times and it just scared me to hell (and so does Windows 10). :p Maybe i haven't tried hard enough.
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if you give it another shot i recommend any of the ubuntu derivatives/flavors, since they have the highest online support behind them as far as guides/troubleshooting which makes it easier for starting out on linux. that still includes several hundred choices to pick from too. ^^
personally i prefer "Linux Mint 18.2 x64 / Cinnamon Desktop / 4.4.x Kernel"
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most of the ubuntu flavors including mint are liveos based so you wouldn't even have to vmware it, you can just run it at boot of the system without install to test it out and see if you like it prior to install. (and it would run much faster then thru vmware to get a better feel of it)
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And that's when people get used to the notifications and always click yes anyway. :x
Well, if the user is dumb then yes, UAC is worthless. Remember: the best AV is the user himself.
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Yeah browsers are insane on memory.. I'm using 3.8 gb right now with just a bunch of gmail tabs open in chrome.
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Your stuttering is definitely a memory problem considering you hit 98% usage and hitting 84% when TF2 isn't even running, and like the orono said you shouldn't even have two browsers open in the first place. How much RAM do you actually have? It only takes a second to replace RAM, if you Dads PC has more then it'd definitely be worth testing. I personally don't use an antivirus so I can't give you solid advice on what's the best for memory, but Malwarebytes clearly isn't doing you any favours. To my knowledge Avast is a lot more respected so it may be worth looking in to.
Edit: Just had a quick look. Apparently these guys tested a few different antivirus' and Avast came out on top by a longshot for minimal memory consumption.
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What i replied to Orono, 2 browsers, malwarebytes everything together worked okayish at 1 point, unless maybe 1 stick is breaking down.
Offcourse ram is easy to replace, and wish i had 8gb which seems better for my use, but money is very tight and not really looking forward to any expense, though ram would atleast be the least expensive.
My dad has ddr3, and i probably have ddr2 and it might not fit in mine, i could try though.
Personally i feel anti virus suits are better aimed at virus and something anti malware better against that (malwarebytes 3 has even more protection against stuff being installed in the first place). i can turn that off and only run a scan once a while.
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browsers adds alot of memory, but the way i use my browsers i am doing that for years without it creating problems so far
they get hungrier all the time
wish i had 8gb
with only 4gb your issue is too low on ram, 100%
Use less programs like only FF instead IE, it takes far less mem per tab, also ADB for IE is crap too.
Stuttering is caused by filling mem and win needing to swap. Putting pagefile on ssd helps but only more ram solves (or less stuff running).
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Try taking the memory out of your PC leaving one stick in and see how it runs, if it runs fine then try it with another stick until you've tried them all. If the PC doesn't start up or if one isn't running right then you've got a dodgy stick of memory. There are some programs about to test your memory like Memtest off top of my head, it's been awhile since I've used any. If you still have trouble after testing the memory turn all none important programs off from start up (Start/Run/Msconfig) anything which doesn't need to be running when starting up like Adobe Updater turn off, you have a lot of processes running in the background.
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I tried some memory test software to test, most require to flash it, but i used one that would test only your available memory (not what it was using) not sure how accurate it was or maybe the errors were in the memory it was using.
Could try your tip on taking out 1 stick at a time, thanks.
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Once you only got one stick in run it for a little while open a few programs etc before trying another stick. What window's are you using windows 7?
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I know the kind of memory software you're talking about...and it's not enough to really determine whether a stick is bad or not...see my other comment below. :)
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+1 on Memtest
If you want to do a real memory test, then download Memtest and run it overnight, just letting it slam your RAM. You want to make a bootable stick/disc to do this so that the OS is taken completely out of the loop. This is the best way to ensure that your RAM is good (or not). In the morning, check your results and see if there is any significant failure rate. If so, you have bad RAM (and you'll know exactly which stick(s)), and if not, then it's likely something like that you leave too many tabs open, have real-time scans running (as mentioned by others above), or whatever while you're trying to game (which is CPU, GPU, and memory-intensive).
I would suggest a minimum of 8Gb of RAM on a gaming box, anyway, A lot of games won't use more than 4Gb, but that still leaves you 50% for all of the other stuff your machine needs to do.
Hope that helps...
:)
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You should see how long it takes to test 16-32Gb of RAM. :D
It'll be worth moving your PC for the night. At least you'll have a definitive answer that will help to start narrowing things down (or get you the answer right away if there's a bad stick).
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I had an issue very similar to this and it ended up being Avast that was causing it. PC worked fine on win7 but once I switched to windows10 it started stuttering a few weeks later(especially my wireless kb & mouse). I would suggest temporarily uninstalling whichever virus protection you use and restart your PC. See if that resolves your issue before doing anything drastic.
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Check my comment to solve that kind of problems with Avast.
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There is a workaround at least, the "Silent Gaming Mode" option disables them.
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It looks like your CPU is running too hot for that amount of load, you are probably overheating. You should watch your CPU temperature as you do more demanding tasks, I bet it will max out and throttle the CPU. You may need to remove your CPU heatsink, clean off and apply new thermal compound.
Edit: Actually the temperature depends on what CPU you have. What CPU is in your computer?
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Thought about that but the case never feels too hot, temperatures are 50-60C (Also due the case which can't be helped).
It's in the could be cooler but nothing criticial section.
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Intel says that the max temperature for that CPU is 71.4C. I believe that is the temperature for the entire CPU package and not the individual cores. Since Intel is using CPU package temperatures, that is probably where they put the temperature censor and that is probably the temperatures you are seeing when you use a program that shows you CPU temperature.
If you just booted your PC and opened a couple browsers before taking that screenshot and it is showing that you hit a max of 73C, I would say that you are overheating and you either need to apply new thermal compound or your CPU heatsink is not properly attached and seated on the CPU.
Here is some documentation on your CPU from Intel that talks about temperature and where the temperature censor is placed.
Your memory usage is also high, but I'm not quite sure how to go about fixing that.
Edit: There is something in that PDF under the definition of Thermtrip on page 72 that says the CPU throttles when it reaches 20C over the max Tc (71.4C). So I guess it throttles at 91C, but I don't know if the CPU is checking individual core temps or package and whether software shows package or individual core temps for this CPU.
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tcase is temp of the whole cpu, tjunc is temp of single core of cpu so it´s possible that one core is too hot and it starts to throttle.
Try to clean everything and test it with prime95 and listen to your fan if it´s speeding up.I had the same cpu a long time ago overclocked and with a medium prized air cooler at max 40°c idle temp in summertime. 53°c is def too hot.
If you need more details I can look at the temps tomorow ,my brother runs this oldie today:-)
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I don't know much about Core 2 processors, but Intel says the max is 71.4C and he is hitting 73C from just booting and loading a couple browsers. I would think he needs new thermal compound or the heatsink in not properly attached.
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I'd suggest you to look at the cpu, 55% usage without running a game seems a lot, it's probably the main reason for stutters. The temperature seems to be somewhat ok (while 70 C would be ok as a max normal T of a laptop, 60 C is considered max normal T of a PC). I believe your ram will hold up for a game like TF2 without a problem, but you might want to try closing one at least one of the browsers during gaming.
For reference I keep my cpu below 10% and my ram sits at 61% out of 8 GB (of which the highest is 1100 MB from firefox) running on win8 64bit.
I also found that some browser tabs will put a heavier load on the cpu than normal, keep an eye on which ones might reduce it, especially the steam key giveaway sites.
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I assume you have 4GB of RAM?
It shouldn't be a problem to run multiple browsers etc.
Try killing Adblock Plus for IE.
You should get rid of it anyway and look for an alternative.
http://www.theverge.com/2016/9/13/12890050/adblock-plus-now-sells-ads
Edit: Malwarebytes seems to use a lot of memory too.
If you can, try benchmarking the SSD with no unneccesary things running. Is it's firmware up to date?
I had an issue once where a brand new Samsung SSD would cause lags/freezes. Updating the firmware solved it.
Your CPU temp when idling on the desktop could be lower. Try cleaning the fluff out the CPU cooler and leave the case open if that improves things.
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Download Process Explorer to pinpoint which process is actually causing the problem...it's an invaluable app which I use quite regularly for trouble-shooting such issues ツ
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another +1
at first check with process explorer and post a screenshot of this.
also, like someone said above: create a bootable usb stick with memtest and... well... test the mem ;)
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Stuttering is most likely because cpu overheating - change thermal paste (1$ one is fine, no need to waste money on more expensive ones), clean your heatsink and reset your bios because it can be that some dynamic overclock is on since your 2.5 cpu goes to 2.65 according to ss.
For refference, my "old" Q6600 during gaming went to 58C and current E5440 to 50ishC per core - big cooler tho; first one is a bit slower than yours, second a bit faster, same cpu generation.
Memory usage in browsers is fine if you're watching twitch, if it's some 1 static page -than it's not. No need for malwarebytes to be always on.
Hardware fault in memory results in frequent pc resets out of blue, it doesn't affect speed or usage.
If you by any chance forgot to disable windows update - do it! That crap can result up to 25% cpu usage in idle.
If you think that SSD is a problem, check if your motherboard supports ACHI mode - it is a must for SSDs but that generation of motherboards that you have had it optional (mine doesnt support it, but I can enable it with a bit of bios modding if I needed it)
There you go some pointers, now go and have fun :D
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I actually don't have windows updates disabled (i used to), but i tend to forget things like that to check by hand for updates (would even forget my head if it wasn't stuck to the rest of my body. :p), but guess i can try to disable it, didn't know it could reach that high.
Suppose mine doesn't support it what do you mean with bios modding?
Thanks.
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Bios modding - when your motherboard can have some options, however they were never officially supported through official bios releases, then you modify bios to have them (or download already modded one). I'll use mine mb for example - asus p5k- first versions of bios had ACHI options, newer ones nope, so if you want SSD now to work properly, you need to download modded bios for it. Or like support for Xeon cpus - never officially supported on 775 motherboards, but you can follow a simple manual and add support yourself. Found these 2 bookmarks that I have for mine pc: 1, 2. Second one is a worthy reading material if you have some C2D, your motherboard supports any 4core cpu and you're looking for a cheap upgrade - this is something relatively popular in my country, buying xeons from aliexpress :)
Have no clue about your MB and ACHI, check it yourself, and if it doesn't support it try to google up the solution for it, if it exists.
EDIT: to add - every motherboard version is different; don't try to put bios from some other motherboard (socalled crossflash); that works only in few examples.
EDIT2: for people who are afraid that they will screw up something with modded bios (and you can afterall), solution for getting ACHI support is buying some SATA2/3 controller (PCI or PCIE -depends on what free slots you have left on your mb), but that is 20-30e expense.
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It feels like how IT horror movies start 🙃
Why has noone yet asked what your config is? Quad core with 4GB of RAM doesn't exactly cover it 👀
Also, what are you running in your browsers to reach 38% CPU load in a supposedly idle-ish state? My "idle" CPU usage is 3-4%, with quite a lot of stuff running: 2 browsers with ~15 tabs each, MJ12node...
Edit: btw, if you want to check for hardware defects:
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Standard i have Outlook.com open, and depending on what i want to remember a couple of giveaways open of SG, and sometimes 1 or 2 other sites like Tremorgames.
I don't think Steam was doing anything at that point, and i do notice sometimes cpu is spiking (not so much that i could pinpoint it to a specific program and are like "ghost" spikes).
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There must be something wrong with Internet Explorer as it shouldn't take that much ram, unless you have a video opened in the browser, and I think that everything together is filling your RAM and the OPC is using the pgefile making the entire system slow as hell. I would recommend expanding the Internet Explorer and Firefox processes in the proccess Explorer to see exactlky what is taking that RAM. I don't think your CPU is thermal throthling at only 73ºC max, I personally use MSI Afterburner to check the temperature and general usage of CPU and GPU.
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all i care to see is more than 80% memory usage with two browsers open and not even a game or something running.
the lag you feel is most likely the ssd accessing the swap file all the time.
get 8gb ram and it will be fine. as fine as it gets that is.
after that the slow cpu will be the main pain in the ass.
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a combo of
"Memory usage in browsers is fine if you're watching twitch" from juzer -&- "what are you running in your browsers to reach 38% CPU load in a supposedly idle-ish state?" from dingdong2
made me think about tamper/greasemonkey+esgst script... are you by chance running those?? if so i'd be willing to bet that's alot of the idle cpu/memory load. that combo is fairly harsh on memory & even cpu, especially considering how low of ram you're running on tbh. that also would explain why it's getting worse and worse for you cause the more features that gets the more it will put a load on your system performance.
edit: looking at the task manager shots, it doesn't look like you use those so probably not the case. xD
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In Firefox i only have Adblock Plus and Enhanced Steam installed, but mostly i only watch a video on Dailymotion which is like a Youtube, and i use Adblock on IE (the only add-on).
If i have have a couple of tabs open on 2 browsers, that all blocking something then yeah probably all those instances could add up.
I done a fresh windows installation 2 weeks ago (while before the new installation i did have Greasemonkey and maybe something else too). That with only 2 addon's now and less junk on my pc, it shouldn't really get worse, but better.
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Ohh...several days ago Enhanced Steam started causing me major performance issues as well in Firefox Lugum...practically locking up my browser within a few secs after its last update. It seems to still run fine in Chrome but no longer in FF. So I would definitely recommend disabling it and then retest things.
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Steam client should not use more than 1-2% CPU in idle state unless you are downloading a game or an update. Same for the browsers, it's very strange unless you are using bad coded extensions (for example adblock is really bad programmed and is very CPU and memory intensive). uBlock Origin is the best alternative for Adblock and it's infinitely better.
Or maybe you are using the browsers with hundreds of tabs opened.
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Adblock for both browsers and Enhanced Steam for firefox, but i used all that for a long without the strain it's causing now i can't even play tf2 with just some youtube clip as music unless i turn off stuff like Adblock, while using alot of ram like now, never had that before.
Why i strongly think it is (failing) hardware related unless it's software by some update maybe. Tabs depend on open giveaways, never more then 10. I will look at Ublock Origin.
Still haven't seen steam cpu spike today, maybe it did install something because i use the beta thing, but i am almost sure it wasn't a game.
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Reboot on safe mode with networking options
If you haven't any trouble here then is some software
Troubles here maybe hardware issues
Speccy can show your temperatures, too high while idle means you must clean it!
Personally I don't use antimalware/antivirus at all, just enabled windows defender, prefetch can cause some issues but not always
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Try using your old HDD to see if it still happens. From my experience 4GB of ram is not enough for Vista and newer OS's for comfort use and it looks like the high CPU usage is caused by moving running programs to and out of memory because of it being too small (what is/was your regular HDD usage?). I would definitely recommend expanding the memory to 6-8GB and lowering or disabling page file for best performance.
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My old 2tb HDD has been used to fill with other data, (i used a 250 gb partition for c:).
The SSD is 59 gb and i got 12 gb free, i actually used 4 gb (which i tried increasing to 6gb) for the page file, doing some googling disabling it like you said could actually help performance on a SSD, i will try that.
Also i tried putting system restore off and thought it was, but when i just checked somehow it was on again.
https://www.computing.net/howtos/show/solid-state-drive-ssd-tweaks-for-windows-7/552.html
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if you can free up more space on the SSD, then do so - that is not a lot of spare space - when taking into account filling up a recycle bin - or even the drive closing off parts of the device that may becoming defective due to age - older SSDs tend to suffer the longer they live :) - but I would look at cpu temps in the bios, update the bios of the motherboard if you haven't already, and check the cpu cooler has not come loose (I gained 15 degrees extra cooling by taking off the old stock cooler, cleaning, replacing the heatsink thermal paste and re-attaching :) - as for the mous - if it is one of the ones with red light shining out of the bottom (simplified explanation I know), then any dust/grains of dirt can make it twitch when the mouse runs over it. - also - running two browsers is not a good idea and utorrents chew up memory fast.
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You can't set more than 4GB of page file if you have only 4 GB of memory. If you got more memory you would be able to disable it. Disabling it in current state can increase performance, but if you have too many programs opened at the same time, they might (and will) crash. In some rare cases even drivers can crash and some peripheries can stop working. Sometimes it can help just restarting the browser (or any other program) if it runs too long (over a day, sometimes few hours is more than enough). Also be sure to restart the OS from time to time if you don't do it regulary, i.e. not turning off PC over night or putting it into sleep mode instead. Also check if you have sata ports set in AHCI mode instead of SATA / IDE, it can slightly help in HDD performance.
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But a page file is like virtual memory (windows even say so) and based on how much free disk space you have and want to assign to it, it even says recommended 6142 mb. If you mean you shouldn't use more.
Pc always go off at night because it's in the bedroom, often half past the day it also gets a reboot.
Someone also gave the tip about AHCI and will try that too.
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Now I'm not sure, the maximum size is 1x or 2x the amount of physical memory you have. In regards to the actual size of page file, it should add to the maximum memory you will need in most cases. In your case I'm guessing it could be 6-7GB, so I would set it like that: initial 512 MB, maximum 3072 MB. But as I say it's individual, so different setting may suit you better. Problem is if you have too big page file, Windows swaps memory even if it doesn't have to. Too small page file might cause programs to crash, too big page file causes heavy memory swapping and performance decrease (depending on the speed of your HDD). As I said best solution for you would be extending physical memory (to at least 6 GB). Also as others said check for all programs that may be unnecessarily running on background.
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Well i tried no page file at all and it did crash things, changed it something lower, not sure if letting windows decide is better.
I only got 2 memory slots, if one is broken i can replace one or might as well go to 8 gb, but as i said it's not money i can really afford (else bought it straight away or even better a whole new computer) but if needed i would have no other option but i would need to be 100% sure before buying ram, not to then find out it wasn't that but maybe the cpu or something else.
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I have not read all replies but can make some suggestions although would also ask if you are having any overheating problems if you are unaware there is lots of software out there to find this out one, for example being called Speedfan.
One option is to check all your cables inside the PC are connected properly and by check I mean turn the PC off completely and the mains power connected then unplug the cables and reconnect them making sure they feel fully connected.....also while you are inside the PC check for excessive dust and possibly clear this out using compressed air or an air pump.
It has been mentioned already but I do not recommend having two browsers especially when one is IE, and also make sure the close any unneeded programs while gaming.
Disable the Windows search function too.
Theres couple disjointed suggestions to go with.
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I got a quad core with 4gb ram that's a couple of years old, and worked fine till recently. I got my dads old SSD drive which is also a couple of years old. Now on occasion my mouse starts to stutter or freeze for a second, and also on a heavy load (like TF2 and IE open in the background) TF2 stutters, everything being old most likely something might be failing.
In the past IE (Yes i still use it) can build up memory usage but it didnt create a situation on how it was now, i can use other browsers but those others also still use a bunch of my memory, i now i don't have the best pc but it never gave the performance as it does now.
Furthermore i did a whole reinstallation of windows, malware checks and i am pretty sure it's hardware related.
I installed a programmed called Whysoslow and my memory load is as shown in the picture after a boot with 2 browsers open, i don't know why it shows an exclamation mark at cpu because at boot that is still low but it also can go up till max load.
Normally i used to just replace things from my dads pc to check what parts could be broken but he has a new one and i don't think his ram would fit on mine. What would i be most likely looking at what the problem is, motherboard, ram, ssd or could be any of the 3?
[Edit 3] In the meantime i had to reinstall windows yet again (twice because the first time i kept getting startup programs to run twice).
Due some other issues as well, which gave me the opportunity to change/remove a few programs suggested here by people, alot of things i fiddled with since and it seems to be somewhat better for the time being. Thanks to anyone who suggested something, i have read it all, even though i did not reply to everyone.
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