GPU-Z says my normal clock is 915 MHz, and when I am in Borderlands 2 (PhysX High) in a firefight, my GPU Core Clock is about 914.5 most of the time, but VERY RARELY go up to 1110.5 MHz. My GPU Memory Clock when in a firefight is 1502.3 MHz. Do I need to use Afterburner to overclock one of them or both, and by how much if I do?
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Either:
Get a new CPU or Overclock your CPU (Which will only bring a minimal performance boost, around 5-10 fps est. in your case).
Try downloading "AMD Overdrive" If you want to overclock your CPU. It's a good starting software to Overclock your CPU.
Also download the software called "prime95" to test your CPU overclock stability
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yes it is the features for the 660's mak, or were made to utilize thunderbolt tech. AMD and Nivida are in direct competition with each other. Yes Amd cards do better with AMD CPUs and Intel and Nvida do perform better look at the Toms Hardware specs to get the full details. .
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What...thunderbolt has nothing to do with any of this. CPUs and GPUs are completely different architectures. AMD's CPU division is in no way competing with Nvidia. They're not taking up die space just to add hardware to detect an Nvidia GPU and limit its performance...that's pretty counterproductive to selling their products.
Link on that article? Obviously any card with a decent Intel CPU will outperform one running with an AMD simply because of IPC. How would you even begin to compare performance across platforms like this?
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lol you are right you just saved that man a fried cpu. . . Also any CPU lower doesn't utilize the 660 ti's usage od the cpu graphics capability to optimize itself plus none of the mobo's for that generation use the 5X tech. Time for a new mobo and CPu.
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it is the case he's using a 2nd to new gen card in a 5 year old + mobo. The core of this issue is the Pci-e slot nothing else I think that is the core right now. Without the PCI-e 2+ he cannout use any of the features of the 660 Ti. . . on the plus side for 200 bucks he gets a CPU and an msi MOBO he is set. Cicky or
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Aside from the socket, the motherboard shouldn't cause this kind of problem. If you're referring to the PCI-E slot, he shouldn't notice a difference between 3.0, 2.0, and even 1.0 ( PCI-E 1.0 x16 is the equivalent of PCI-E 2.0 x8, which shouldn't bottleneck most cards).
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My computer is actually this, but I use the 660 Ti instead of the crappy integrated one, and I replaced the power supply with a 600 Watt one.
http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c02628380
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My psu is 600 watts. Games with PhysX off run better than with it on, especially BL2, but I SHOULD be able to run it with it on. My computer was originally a prebuilt, so my windows 7 64 bit came with it, but I replaced all the parts in it about a year after I bought it.
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you need a bigger PSU I have about the same specs but a 650TI and 700W PSU also depends on the brand of your GFX card as well as they all have different specs. The one I have of ASUS recommended 650W PSU. I'm running those games stable at max settings with 50-60 FPS
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600+ means 600 or larger. . .I'm saying going lower then 500 is just. . . foolish. . . It could work but if you add anything to your system down the line you are boned. For the +10 dollar price better safe then sorry. there is no BS with what I said.
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he has a 600w power-supply anyway >< non-issue till he upgrades his mobo then his will be at 550 like mine. well 543 to be exact. I did the same thing he did a year and a half ago I really do know what I'm talking about, though I had an X8 that I gave to Yatterman.
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As long as the PSU is running normally, 600W are perfectly fine. (A system with your card in it should peak at about 320W, putting you around the optimal 50% load.)
Low power or a malfunction can lead to the behavior you described, but I don't think it's your case.
I agree on the fact that you should be able to run games smoothly with PhysX ON. I asked about it to know if turning it to off would make the problem go away completely (it would have pointed to a driver problem of some sort).
I think your culprit is the old installation. Since you tell me that you replaced all the HW (without reinstalling, I take), I think it's your best shot to format and start again: it could be a case of really messy registry, with a pinch of drivers conflict. :)
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The 640 will bottleneck the GPU in more demanding games (100% garantueed), but OP is talking about TF2 and BL2 at 1600x900. They run well at 1440x900 on my Core2Duo E7300 with a HD6850 and 2GB of RAM.
His case is not just about bottleneck, there something going wrong underneath.
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Format, if you can't, remove all you drivers e reinstall them.
Complete virus/malware scan.
Check Bios setting (clocks, etc).
See if during gaming your CPU reaches 100% and your GPU is not at 90-100% (this is to see if you CPU is a bottleneck).
4gb RAM is still enough to play.
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I had a 635 up until a week ago, and that's only slightly less powerful than the 640.
With a 7950, Battlefield 3 ran at 40-50 fps, with the GPU maxing out at 62% usage while in a jet above Wake Island. In War Thunder, the GPU usage was stuck at 35%. In both cases, changing the graphics options didn't change the FPS whatsoever.
Long story short: You've got a CPU bottleneck. If you don't believe me, try changing the graphics settings in the games that you're having problems with. I can pretty much guarantee that your FPS won't change at all :P
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Since the 640 has a locked multiplier, I don't know much about overclocking it. However, it seems like this article could be extremely useful. Also, like schalart said, you want to be careful about temps. Get HWMonitor and make sure that under load ( Prime95 might be useful for maxing out the usage ) the processor stays at a reasonable heat level.
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I will recommend to buy R9 280X probably the best what you can have for that money! :D
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What that processor, this would be a terrible investment
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If you min. ingame settings then max. and performance doesn't change - it's cpu.
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OP, here's what I want you to do.
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They're really nice. They have mildly worse per-core performance than Intel processors, but they get about the same performance in current gen games, and should get even better as games start to utilize more cores (both Watch Dogs and Battlefield 4 are capable of using 8 cores).
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Get a new CPU, get more RAM (no rush for that one), and you'll notice the difference.
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Assuming that his mobo is actually PCI-e 1.0/1.1, which one person claims is wrong, there won't be any noticeable decrease in performance with that vs 2.0 or 3.0.
Each generation of PCI-e doubles the bandwidth, but most cards today don't even use enough bandwidth to max out the first generation of slots.
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I don't know much about that sort of thing, so I'm gonna assume that you're right about the validation thing. However, everything points to the fact that his CPU is causing the problem, and upgrading it (which would require a mobo upgrade anyway) would solve that problem.
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yup. I had the same issue before. Sadly you really do need an Intel i5 with Thunderbolt to get the full effect from the 660 + series. I know I got the Msi OE ed with the MSI G series MOBO. Sadly mos people overlook the importance of a good mobo to back a good CPU/video card. Also HP suuuucks for MOBOs. ALso when i5k or i7k+ always get liquid cooling it saves money and allows for crazy OC. I'm running at 5.1 right now and have a constant temp of 23oc with my antec H90
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Well... I updated the BIOS. I got a VERY VERY TINY increase in performance. Although, how do I overclock this processor in the BIOS, and by how much?
Also, for anyone who doesn't know, my computer is this: http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c02628380
Except with a 660 Ti and a 600 Watt Power Supply.
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SATA3 SSDs are backwards combatible with SATA/SATA2, you just don't initialize the full potential of the disk but it's still a huge difference than a regular HDD.
On the other hand the SDD won't make a difference other than faster loading times except for some games that load data on the fly (usually MMORPGs like WOW)
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I feel you require a lesson on SSD's...
A solid state drive replaces the common hard disc drive's spindle in a vacuum sealed container with thousands of serial bus connections, therefore it does not follow the common format of storing information on "segments" or "sectors" of a hard drive (which are what make up the HDD).
In a HDD, these sectors can contain a set amount of information, for example, each sector could hold 126MB and there could be 2000 sectors. each sector can only contain information from a single file, therefore a file of size 1kb would take up a whole 126MB sector (this is why when you go to right-click properties it has two file sizes, the theoretical size and the "size on disc" or actual storage requirements). If a program uses a large amount of separate files, the game will be slow to load as it has to draw information from more sectors. This is also determined by the rpm (revolutions per minute) of the drive. a lower rpm drive will find each individual sector at a slower rate, therefore a 5400rpm drive with larger sectors is slower than a 7200rpm drive with smaller sectors, even though, smaller sectors would increase the amount of time it takes to load due to having to load more sectors, (therefore, more processing power from the CPU is used).
however, due to the SSD's serial BUS system (similar to a USB device however with more connection), it does not have the restriction of setting data to specific sectors, therefore it is able to load it all from essentially 1 sector and does not have to look to find out in which sector the information is kept in (this is also why you do not have to defragment a solid state drive as the defragmentation process is simply moving sectors to more convenient locations to draw information for use, therefore increasing the performance).
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not true, on most machines that will be the case but that is only because something is holding back the performance (e.g. a graphics card below the GTX500 series + quad-core 3.0GHz processor or lower).
however, on newer machines, the performance is held back by the hard drive's inability to find the correct files for use in time. (which is why if you have a large amount of RAM to store it in and frequent restart your pc, you will never notice as it will all be stored on that instead of searching the HDD every time. For anyone who leaves their pc on for days at a time like me, you will notice the performance drops the more programs get stored on the RAM as it can no longer store the files temporarily there due to no more temporary space to place it there and it won't over-write until you restart the computer.
One fairly major case that you will be able to notice is if you were to use the Unreal Development Kit whilst using screen-capturing software, due to the developmental state of UDK it fills your RAM very quickly with constant build saves (you can use 16GB in about 7 hours). after that point, it will read it off sectors on your hard drive, which as stated before, will cause it to slow down as it has to search for individual sectors constantly which is why it is recommended you buy specific hardware for games development as it increases the amount of temporary storage you have, or to just use SSD devices as they use serial as well rather than sector mapping (it is also a better security design as sectors will hold information even after you delete it. It will hold that information until something overwrites it, therefore it can be retrieved by special software).
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I can see the logic behind what you're saying, with an SSD being a bit less taxing on the CPU than an HDD, but that doesn't change the fact that money spent on an SSD could also go towards a processor, which would be affected less by having to decide which sectors to load.
Besides, I can't imagine that the process of loading extra sectors would noticeably decrease framerate, especially if you have enough RAM and VRAM that you don't have to load the game directly from system storage.
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I agree with what you are saying, however, the point i was making is that having an SSD does improve performance, not what is better to buy.
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You can try overclocking it, but it won't make that much of a difference. Until you can get a new one, you'll just have to deal with the bad FPS or play older/indie games. That's why CPU bottlenecks are so much worse than GPU bottlenecks : /
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there is no way he can OC that CPU without getting an liquid cooler and manually doing it. I've looked it up and I wouldn't do it even with my OC know-how. Ocing old CPu's is a hard thing to do. My MSi has a button to push. My old one I had to many different things.
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Honestly I've been reading your posts here and they are pretty much hit and miss.
Liquid cooler? really? OCing is a s easy as changing some values in the bios and unless you're not doing anything extreme, air cooling would be just fine. The problem is that his OEM motherboard migh have a shit VRM and OCing is way too risky.
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meh I don't know anyone foolish enough to use a stock fan when doing an OC. For the price of a fully contained liquid cooler You'd be a fool not to get one. You don't need a crazy custom liquid cooling system. BUT you DO need to take care for making sure you have good thermal paste and a good cooling system. Anyone who says otherwise doesn't know what they are speaking of. Also this guy didn't know how to look-up for his base bios drivers. The new CPUs and MOBOs have an easy OC system anything before 2010 didn't take OC into their features unless getting a custom MOBO. ALSO this is an HP setup there is no way you can OC with setup without much effort. I had an HP system that I had to put into a new tower just to get it from over heating. . . this very same model though I had a different MOBO. There is only 2 vent fans in this system and on top of that he has to do lots of BIOS work. I've been goggling everything he has posted.
edit: OCing this system as a suggestion is 100% a BAD idea all around.
EDIt 2 : No offence to OP just you really need to know what you are doing when OCing an Old CPU.
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I've been overclocking for many years and most what you just said doesn't make sense to me.
Liquid cooling is reserved for extreme overclocking and it's also expensive. You can OC with stock coolers if you are careful. You can get good speeds with something like a 212 evo if you are on a budget. The stuff about mobos doesn't sound true but then again I never had an OEM mobo so it might as well be true for those. As far as I can remember though overclocking was as easy as changing some values and multipliers in the BIOS settings.
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Alright, so
I went on PC part picker and I threw something together that I want to hear your opinions on.
( I DID NOT INCLUDE POWER SUPPLY OR CARD BECAUSE I ALREADY HAVE THE 660 TI AND A 600 WATT )
I also threw in a mouse (I need a new one)
http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1Wwyb
EDIT: It has to be under 660 dollars.
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Alright then. UPDATE: http://pcpartpicker.com/p/1Wwyb
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Looks pretty good. My thoughts:
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Here's my modified version. Even with a mouse, you're still well under $660.
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how about this? you have the rest of the parts and it makes the most of everything click
edit: and you can get 16 gig of ram for 70 bucks. . . and add win 7 and still be under 600
Edit this one is better
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Be careful with upgrading RAM at odd intervals. You want to make sure that you're keeping whatever channeling system your motherboard supports (most use dual channels), so that the RAM sticks can work together. Otherwise, they'll perform much worse than they should.
Unless his mobo uses single channels, an upgrade from 4 to 8 should only be done using a 2x2GB kit, which is just plain silly. So, funnily enough, he'd be much better off going from 4 to 12 than 4 to 8, even if he never uses that much.
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Just by reading the OP, it's clear that the CPU is the weakest link. You GPU is great; could use more RAM but it's not a problem now. I'm using 560 TI, 6GB RAM, and an i7-940 CPU and can comfortably max out all of the current games, so your GPU is definitely not a problem (unless there is something wrong with your particular card, of course).
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Hi SteamGifts users, I have looked everywhere for a solution to this, but noone EVER has an answer, so I came here to ask.
My Specs are:
GTX 660 Ti,
Athlon II x4 640 @ 3.0 GHz (It is a quad core btw),
4 GBS DDR3 RAM,
Windows 7 64 Bit,
1 TB Hard Drive,
600 Watt PSU,
Native res: 1600x900
EDIT: My computer is actually this, but I use the 660 Ti instead of the integrated card, and I replaced the power supply with a 600 Watt one. http://h10025.www1.hp.com/ewfrf/wc/document?cc=us&lc=en&docname=c02628380
I know my ram isn't the BEST, nor my processor, but come on. I run Borderlands 2 usually 45 fps, although I can sometimes go to 10 FPS with physx on high, and even sometimes on low. I run Rise of the Triad at friggin 30 fps constantly, and will almost ALWAYS drop down to 15. I run TF2 at like 70 fps (which is very much playable, but it SHOULD run higher than that). Painkiller HD runs at 50 usually but can drop down to 25. Why am I getting such crap performance for these games? I have up to date, NON BETA drivers, I also don't have any AMD drivers from another card or anything., I also have up to date BIOS.
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