I have no idea about AMD size but you should be good. GTXs are massive and they fit into cases. Plus PCPartPicker is pretty good at showing issues! I would maybe get more storage maybe in the form of an SSD!
PS thanks for the giveaway <3
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Thank you for the advice. I'm worried mostly because I haven't done this stuff before and I'm quite dumb when it comes to things like this, so even if PCPartPicker's completely accurate, I'm still worried that there's some issue with the compatibility checker, so I wanted some human input :D
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It does have a really good compatibility checker.
The only issue I see is the Caviar Blue 1TB. I'm a big fan of WD, but blue is my least favorite product line of theirs.
I would not buy a mechanical hard drive at all, go pure SSD IMO. If you must have more storage, RAID with 3 or more mechanical drives would be decent and reliable (redundant), but you could stick that array in an external enclosure, attach it to the router/home server for better results than packing a mini-tower full of noise, vibrations, and heat.
If you have a very fast internet connection, you could store things in "the cloud" as they say. Online backups and file storage services are pretty cheap and way more reliable than any home setup.
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My plan from these comments is that I'd get the current HDD now and in the future, I'd get an SSD on top of that. It's just that their prices are pretty high. The cheapest 120GB one I've found costs 55€. And that's only 120GB. Some games take up almost as much space as that. Unless the prices improve, I can't afford that yet. :/
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would the parts physically fit (like the GPU)
Graphics card length limit of the case is 380mm and the card is 210mm so that should fit just fine. PSU is short enough as well. You need to check if the height of cooler you are going to be using is 165mm or less though.
I ignore everything that has anything to do with AMD so I can't really comment on the motherboard/CPU combo. My only advice would be to get another 8GB of RAM and an SSD if you can.
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Okay, it seems that the cooler will fit then.
AMD themselves gave this response for the dimensions of Ryzen 1400's stock cooler.
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For future builds I'd recommend getting at least 16GB of memory, I myself have 8GB and am running into close to max quite often. You should also consider buying a good cpu fan(maybe 30-40$?) as stock ones are useless (I have an old Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO but ones of similar designs I recommend)
Edit: I also agree with getting either an SSD or a dedicated hdd to run the system OS, with your WD blue as storage drive.
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My plan with RAM's currently that I'll buy some more at a later date and sell the older RAMs if necessary. Thanks for the comment :)
EDIT: Also, is upgrading the cooler an essential or more of a "recommended" type of thing? It's just that if it's an essential, then I'll probably have to downgrade some parts :/
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I looked at the cooler that comes with your cpu and it looks okay although not great (I have intel cpu and my stock one sucked) so maybe you don't need to invest in one on budget. I don't think downgrading anything else is a good idea, it's already pretty minimum.
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The ryzen cooler is enough even for a light oc and it's super easy to install.
edit, considering that mobo you won't oc anyway, the stock cooler is the way
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Nice! I wasn't really planning on OCing the parts in the near future anyways. And as you said, the MOBO won't support it anyways.
Thanks for the comment :)
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No, the Ryzen stock cooler is surprisingly good. Not too noisy (of course, not silent either) and it can even support decent overclocking on the 3 and 5 series (not really on the 7 series).
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As far as I know RAM and SSD prices are and have been on the rise for some time now. You could consider 1x8 leaving possibility for 2x8, unless the mobo has 4 RAM slots. 2x4 might give better performance than 1x8, though it will vary between insignificant and not. You could google for those games that are relevant to you.
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Everyone seems to recommend adding an SSD. Well, I'll take that into higher consideration then. Didn't expect it to be that important.
Also, with the RAM, I'm planning to upgrade it later with an 8GB stick and selling the 4GB one. RAM's even more expensive here, so I'll probably attract some buyers.
Also... that's very similar to mine indeed. But, no. I didn't get inspiration from that build. :D
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It's important because your OS will load FAST, really fast. And everything will run smoothly, however SSDs are expensive, their prices are going uuuuuuup (With the RAMs), and keep in mind that, at the end of the day, an SSD it's a luxury. Although... maybe nowadays and seeing that anybody asks for one, it's the new standard
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You really need an SSD or things on windows 10 chug, on my old laptop it would take 3 seconds+ to open the start menu and this was on an i74700mq, now an my SSD its instant, you can get 64gb ones super cheap and this will easily fit windows or 128gb if you want a couple programs.
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Don't overthink it, a cheap Adata or AMD R3 SSD of around 120 GB in size is enough. You only need it for the system and core programs. Games only benefit from shorter loading times, but if you buy a PC on the cheaper side or you are used to being a console peasant, you kinda expect longer load times anyway. (Plus only a handful of games have excruciatingly loads on HDD.)
The only thing you need to keep an eye on is that as a general rule, system SSDs can be filled only to maximum two-third of their capacity (so around 80 GB of a 120 GB one) to ensure they really never get any slower. On Windows, it means you need to clean up some of the system/update installer files from time to time.
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Okay, this comment has made me less worried. People really seem to just say that essentially Windows 10 won't work properly or that SSD is literally the most important thing on a computer.
Well, then I can stay with my plan of buying this PC at first and later on buying an SSD. It's just that budget isn't on my side and I'm doing the best I can with the money I have. I focused on things that couldn't really be upgraded first (GPU would be too expensive to upgrade, but I can always add more RAM or add an SSD).
Thanks, Talgaby! :D
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have in mind that every SSD are, more or less, the same so any 120gb in the midgame would do the job. I did the same but I have 240 (back when the prices were okay). The brand is OCZ (wich is nowadays another Toshiba with trium drivers) and its doing the job. Toshiba, Adata, Hyperx, sandisk... Everything would work. Samsung is the fastest brand but also the expensiver one but again, any medium brand would do the job.
Just avoid kingston, specially the V300.
I can tell you windows 10 uses about 60gb
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I was avoiding it for years because of the price, even opted for 2x 1TB HDD instead... but since I got a small SSD for OS + 5 programs only, trust me, my life is different. For regular booting and desktop work SSD does the same as switching from 2 to 8 GB of RAM does to games.
Like people said, doesn't have to be right now, but when you can get a 120-240gb ssd and move os to it.
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May I ask, is the difference really that lifechanging? I mean, will the bootup really be that much quicker? Or just doing something on your computer? (I've always been with an HDD, so maybe I just can't imagine it being faster than it already is :D)
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If you have 20-ish minutes of your life, watch all of these:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JF4gUcGndhc
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9dEsTiOeMQ4
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EqpUJ_o2xeA
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Interesting videos.
You've pretty much convinced me that it's not a necessity. But you've also convinced me that I'll work towards getting one regardless. It's just that I'll probably go with upgrading the RAM first and then I'd get an SSD.
Thanks, seriously :D
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Windows 7, visible difference. SSD boots to login screen in 15 seconds, HDD in like 35-45.
Windows 10, I press the power button and 5 seconds later I have a login screen ready.
If you, let's say, wake up and wanna check something quick before work but you're on a tight schedule, SSD saves life.
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The difference between HDD and SSD isn't as big as most people claim. For a PC on a budget an HDD should be fine. You can watch this video to see the difference between the two: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=j84eEjP-RL4
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I have no idea about ryzen, since I bought and built an intel (previous gen, ryzen was not out). It's a good idea to buy 2x4gb of RAM?
It's very expensive and it's going to keep that way for a loooong time. Why not one single ram of 8gb? it would be easier to upgrade later, even if you lose the dual whatever is called. You should check if it's worth it.
I have that PSU and I'm satisfied.
Check reddit.com/r/buildapc
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So, I did some digging into the 2x4 vs 1x8 setups. Turns out, overall 1x8 is better. 2x4 is faster, but in my case 1x8 would be the better deal.
The only problem here is that one, the clock speed are slower and two, most of those RAMs seem to be out of stock :/
I'll try and figure out a way to get the 1x8GB though. Thanks for the advice :D
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check other amazons (.it. fr. es) sometimes they have stock and the shipping it's not that bad. If you are german you could check Mindfactory wich is pretty reliable, I heard.
Thing is, when I bought the computer 8gb was the standard and 16gb the smarter choice for future proof. A couple of months later 16gb started to become the future choice but with more games tthat could use them. RAM was so cheap back then than people bought 16gb anyway and 2400mhz cost less than 2133, etc.
Now 8gb is starting to become the minimum and 16gb the new standard, so 1 stick is easy to upgrade. At least that's the overall theory on /r/buildapc
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Yeah, you've convinced me to go single stick. I'll check out the other storefronts too, thanks :)
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RAM clock speed is the last thing you want to upgrade when building a budget rig. Even on my $2k laptop my RAM is DDR4-2133... but I have 32 GB of it. Not running out of RAM is a lot more important than having an undetectably faster one.
Also, +1 on the SSD. I made a laptop for my parents by just digging up a 7-8 years old laptop based on some kind of ancient Mobile Phenom CPU: I put 8 GB of RAM and a cheap 120 GB SSD, it seems blazing fast (well, of course they don't do gaming on it ^^).
On my own laptop I'm full SSD (for all system, programs and data partitions), I really wouldn't go back. Like with the RAM, it's okay to be cheap on the SSD (as long as you don't pick a model that's really particularly problematic): even a slow SSD will slay any HDD.
Edit: also, you could downgrade your PSU. 350W would be more than enough as long as it's good quality
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The system would easily fit, my brother has the same case and has a msi 1080 watercooled in it so it would be no problem, however Id go with the 1060 3gb as its only slightly worse performance for way less money. Or go for a used 980ti/1070 on craigslist or hardwareswap, I got my 980ti new on reddit for $270 USD
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1060 3gb is a bad choice. Has overall poor quality materials and 3gb are not enough nowadays. Right now is either 1050 ti (4gb) or 1060 (6gb). He can try a 580 too (8gb) I guess.
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I was thinking of going 3GB, but looking at the requirements these days, the 6GB one looks like a better option. Plus, it's the AMP version, which should have better cooling (2 fans, 2 copper pipes).
I did the same mistake with my current computer (bought it pre-built) where I had a choice between 2GB VRAM or 1GB of VRAM and because of price I went 1GB. 1GB is pretty bad and the 2GB still handles itself pretty well for a card that old and cheap.
From my experience, the VRAM isn't important now, but it will be in the future :/
Also, I don't want to go used on it either because I'm planning to use this GPU for around 5 years at least and my current GPU is already showing signs of fading after 4 years of use.
Thanks for the comment though. That case issue really got me worried, but you helped me get rid of them :D
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An SSD and a cheap aftermarket CPU cooler and you are good to go. You could opt for 16GB RAM but taking into account the current pricing on memories it would probably skyrocket your budget. If you are not willing to pay more, you could get 8GB now (as 1 stick, not a kit) and 8 more later down the road.
The sweet Price/GB for SSDs is 250GB and that's plenty of storage for your OS after it gets crowded with data logs etc. and a couple games/programs that'll benefit from it.
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Yep, pretty much +1 to everything you said. I'd find a way to get that 16GB (2x8) to take advantage of multi-channel.
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Yeah, that 16GB would be too much to handle right now.
As for the SSD, I can see what you mean by the 250GB size being the best option for the price. I'll aim at that instead of the 120GB one later then. Sadly, I can't afford that, but it seems to be an easy upgrade regardless.
Thanks for helping out :)
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To be honest the 500GB ones are a better value, but at this price point it's unreasonable for me to suggest you to buy one :)
Plus, I personally don't need that much fast storage (or storage at all). I currently have 100GB on my SSD and another 100GB on my HDD, so for me a 500GB SSD and a TB HDD would be a waste of money. As you can see, it is highly dependent on your usage.
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Yeah, the 500GB ones are around 25% of the price of the whole computer at this moment :D
I tend to fill up my hard drive with stuff, so that 1TB is useful for me. I tend to just have movies, music, TV shows or just multiple games installed at all times. "Just in case" :P
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Every PC built these days should have at least 16GB of RAM. My father in law bought a cheap new laptop a few months ago for $300 and even that had 16GB of RAM in it.
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Only downside is that RAM has skyrocketed in price. If OP is on a budget, he could make do with 8GB, while still having the option to upgrade in the future when finances allow.
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+1 to that. It sucks not having 16GB, don't get me wrong, but the 8GB will serve me well enough for when I can upgrade it. Which would be in around 6 months or so.
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You might use http://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcforme for some second opinions as well.
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Thanks for the tip. Didn't know of this subreddit. I'll check it out :)
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A Ryzen CPU will run ram at a maximum of 2667mhz unless you go into the bios and overclock it. RAM that lists higher speeds just means they CAN go to those speeds, but the speed will be automatically limited to whatever is the 'officially supported' speed of your CPU. Same goes for Intel CPUs.
Actually, sometimes RAM will default to its lowest supported speed, so you should always check in the bios that your running at the optimal speed.
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First and foremost, Ryzen takes advantage of the higher clocked RAM.
Secondly, 1050Ti does not run the latest games on highest setting at 60FPS, unless your definition of "recent" is Indie titles.
The 1050Ti is not marginally weaker than a 1060 6GB, but rather 35% or so slower.
There is nothing future proof on your board and there is no such thing as a future proof board. As sockets change, so do boards. Your Z270 is already outdated as it can't run any of the Coffee Lake CPUs. "It supports M.2 and Optane", so do cheapo boards. Moreover, who on earth uses Optane?
I personally would advise against buying anything from AMD
'Cause buying based on the company manufacturing a product is always the best option out there. Stick to that mindset.
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"Tweaked above ultra", on what resolution son and at what FPS? Go run GTAV, Shadow of Mordor, Tomb Raider on ultra, wanna see you achieving constant 60FPS without dips in the mid 30s. It does not run latest games at constant 60FPS on ultra settings on 1080p and there are multiple benchmarks you can find online showing just that. Either you are lying, or all of the people involved in the industry presenting benchmarks are.
Who cares about future sockets? You yourself talked about future-proofness, which by itself is retarded in the first place as there is no such thing as future proof considering you can't predict the advance of the technology. What's future proof for you? Having a Type-C connector and M.2 connector? Which, as I've already mentioned, even cheapo boards have it.
So you are judging products there were launched this year with products you owned a couple of years ago? Solid logic, can in no way argue with that.
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I'm implying that are you not running Witcher 3 on Ultra graphics at a constant 60FPS. I've mentioned those games because those are the games based on which the benchmarks are made by the vast majority of the reviewers. I can't know how a card will perform on that Indie game no one knows and I don't know how games that are not constantly benchmarked perform.
As I said, I won't argue with that logic. The product will perform the way it will no matter what the company did in their previous releases, but it seems like you don't quite frankly care. All you wanna do is hate, so keep doing that.
Linus Tech Tips 2:51 Crysis 3 Bench (42FPS Ultra, 71FPS High), 3:05 Rise of the Tomb Raider (47FPS Ultra, 58FPS High)
JayzTwoCents 2:05 Rise of the Tomb Raider (42FPS Ultra), 2:12 Witcher 3 (34FPS Ultra, Hairworks Off), 2:26 Far Cry 4 (43FPS Ultra), 2:30 Crysis 3 (39FPS Ultra)
Gamers Nexus 11:20 Shadow of Mordor (55FPS Ultra)
Paul's Hardware 5:30 GTAV (50-60FPS Ultra, 70-75 Ultra with MSAA off)
HardwareCanucks 4:44 Deus EX (46-50FPS Ultra) , 4:48 Far Cry 4 (68FPS High), 5:01 The Division (46FPS Ultra AA off), 5:06 Witcher 3 (46FPS High Hairworks off, AA off), 5:28 Rise of the Tomb Raider (42FPS High with SMAA)
Bitwit 4:29 Rise of the Tomb Raider (54FPS Medium), 4:45 GTAV (62FPS High),
You can state the truth by creating your own videos and you'll be able to take all these guys out of business and establish yourself as the to go reviewer. They must all lie, after all they all must be AMD fanboys.
And hey, here is an extremely rough estimation of what that "marginally difference" looks like.
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The issues that I've heard with the Intel CPUs are that while it's a great CPU for programming and stuff like that, it also suffers from framerate stutters when under pressure. That while it runs games with higher frames (5-10), it also has stuttering problems.
As to GTX 1050TI, I considered that one too. The reason why I didn't get it was mainly this channel. If you check out his videos, almost all games run significantly worse compared to the GTX 1060 6GB. In Wolfenstein 2, you could see 30 frames difference at some points (50 vs. 80). I had an interest in making the GPU as futureproof as possible for the budget and it seems to be the better option for me. Not to mention the 6GB of VRAM compared to 4GB. While 4GB is a lot, at many points, you can see how games take around 3.5-4.5GB of VRAM. Games like Watch Dogs 2 for example, which takes 3.5GB at ultra.
I know ultra isn't important, but it just feels that if a game can handle itself very well at ultra 1080p, then it'll probably run at lowest 720p for years to come.
But this is just theoretical talk. I don't know this subject well and I don't have first-hand experience with the card.
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The electric bills will be around 10€ more expensive per year, so it's not much of an issue for me.
But your card still sounds like it's kicking hard. Thanks for the advice, even if I won't follow it. That's why I asked about this subject. It's to get differing opinions and ideas. So, thank you :)
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Not sure which OS you plan to use... but in case you plan on using Windows 7, be aware there is an issue with Ryzen processors being excluded from (automatic) Windows updates. You can still download them manually and run them though. My brother found this out the hard way.. Shouldn't be an issue if you are using Windows 10 or Linux. No clue on Windows 8.
Other than that, I am not sure on your level of experience but since you are asking here, then here are some general thoughts:
Memory - I don't have any experience with ADATA but tend to think of them as one of the el cheapo ones that might crap out on me. This is probably brand bias on my part (not sure if another else has experiences with that brand and can recommend). I have used Corsair and G.Skill in builds for myself/family/friends. Regardless of which brand you go with, I strong recommend burning a memtest x86+ disc (or you can burn a linux mint disc and select the memtest option from the boot menu) and running it overnight. If you are not familiar with memtest, then it is a memory check that will run indefinitely; usually you want to let it run for several hours/passes and then note if it has found any issues. If nothing found by whatever arbitrary time that you give it, just power off the box to stop the test. I always include this as a step in any new builds so that I can identify faulty RAM sticks early on and RMA them if necessary.
I also recommend having a "motherboard speaker"; here is an example on amazon but in my they're all pretty much the same. I'm used to buying them in bulk so this one seems a bit pricey to me but maybe that's normal for individual ones. They are very handy to have when building because most motherboard manufacturers (especially ASUS) are too cheap to include onboard or in the motherboard packaging; not sure about ASRock specifically. Where these come in handy is that they will beep if they are plugged in and you get an error but no display due to something like unseated RAM or dead video card.
PSU - generally I like to get higher wattage PSU as then it is more future proofed if I add things later (more hard drives etc). Plus some folks say that over time PSU wattage decreases... not sure if there is any truth to this or not but I tend to err on the side of caution. I have a 1000 watt PSU but I have a lot of hard drives and attached do-dads. 520 should get the job done but if you have a little extra to throw in, it wouldn't hurt upgrading to 600 or 650 if you want to futureproof. The fully modular ones are nice.
Edit: To clarify, I am not recommending that you get 1000W unless you have a LOT of things that will be drawing power (which is my scenario). See expanded explanation below.
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1000W is insane overkill for just about any 'normal' PC.
PCPartPicker shows an estimate of how much power a PC vuild will take up (272W in his case).
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yeah, mine isn't normal... plus I have lots of gadgets that draw directly from PC :-) anyway, like I said 520 should get the job done assuming there aren't other things planned in the future / left out of the specs above.
And my point wasn't to use what I have but just that you don't want to do the minimum needed to power it because aside from adding stuff later e.g. more hard drives/beefier graphics card/usb hubs that draw from PC/etc, there may potentially be inefficiencies as PSU ages. I am one of those types who prefer to build something sturdy the first time around and not have to mess with it again later. Much of the reason I recommend 600 if possible is because I have had friends build in th 400-500 range previously only to need to upgrade again within a couple years due to things like newer graphics card etc. that requires more than they had planned for during the original build.
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Woah, you brought interesting things to my attention. First of all, thanks for the comment, this has actually been probably the most helpful one I've encountered here as of now. :D
I'll try the Memtest program out. That sounds pretty damn useful. As for a motherboard speaker, I'll probably get one as well then.
With the ADATA RAM, thanks to a few users, I've changed it out for a Crucial 8GB DDR4-2133 RAM. Mostly for the chance to upgrade it later on with another 8GB. From what I've heard, Crucial's supposedly pretty respected as a brand, so hopefully, I can rely on them.
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2666mhz is the optimal speed RAM to buy for Ryzen CPUs, as its the fastest they officially support. Shouldn't change the price much at all.
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I looked through different RAMs, but getting a 2666mhz one is actually more expensive. From 85€ to around 100€. It's pretty insane tbh.
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€15 isn't that insane...and it would improve performance in games (much more so then with an Intel CPU). I mean, you're already spending €700 , what's €15 more?
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Yeah, but it's 15€ here, 10€ there and it stacks up. Not to mention, I just literally lack the funds to increase the price that much.
I made my final draft (it includes the better motherboard with 4 RAM slots and the 3200MHz 2x4GB RAM) and it came to just under 800€ with shipping.
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in case you missed it, see Tzaar's comment below about the speakers; I still find them handy (and I know several of the mobo's I've worked on are old/el cheapos so they do not have the LCDs he mentioned) but sounds like they are no longer absolutely necessary for debugging errors
Also, I have heard decent things about Crucial but don't think I've used them myself so can't really say more than that.
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They are very handy to have when building because most motherboard manufacturers (especially ASUS) are too cheap to include onboard or in the motherboard packaging; not sure about ASRock specifically. Where these come in handy is that they will beep if they are plugged in and you get an error but no display due to something like unseated RAM or dead video card.
They stopped including those speakers because most modern motherboards have an onboard LCD now with a diagnostic code you can look up in the motherboard manual - much more error-specific than those old speakers and far more user-friendly to first-time builders. Those speakers really aren't necessary anymore with a proper motherboard.
I do agree about GSkill and Corsair RAM - not only for their reliability/compatibility, but also for their RMA/warranty policies if you do happen to get a bad stick. They're very easy and quick to deal with.
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Thanks for mentioning that. I probably should have known about the lights but somehow I have managed to miss/gloss over that important update for several years now. Its been about 15 years since I took an A+ course and I've kept up on some things better than on others it would seem (and I can't express how really old I feel just now when I realized that it has been 15 freaking years since I took that course as a college elective)
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Highly recommend getting an SSD. Even a small capacity one (ex. 250GB) would be just fine. The difference in performance between an SSD and a HDD is definitely something you wouldn't want to skip when building a new computer. In addition to this, it would be worth considering having 16GB of memory instead of 8, as 8GB is running along the minimum amount required for recent games.
Also, for your question about card length, PCPartPicker lists the length of the card (in this case, 210mm) and also lists the maximum card length for your case (which is 380mm). So you should be fine.
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It worries me that your case says it's MicroATX sized and your MoBo says ATX.
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Nevermind the above, I read the detail page on the Mobo and it says that it's MicroATX. I definitely missed that the first time.
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think about a heatsink. and i grabbed myself a way oversized case with 7 fans and the air circulation helps keep it cool, and get a SSD to keep youir operating system on,
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For that price I could only get a 120GB SSD. That means that I'd have (at best) around 80GB of space to play around with. While I won't be getting it now, I will be getting it in the future to facilitate the OS and maybe a few programs.
As for the RAM, I currently have the same strategy. I can't afford going all in on everything. These two parts would be the easiest to upgrade, so I'll leave those for the future.
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I know this isn't what you are asking(see bottom for my actual answer), but......I bought this PC from Amazon
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00SL74K3W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and it's really really good. The main reason it is so good is that it has a GFX card / CPU that is, for most games, perfectly balanced in power. To put it another way, there is no point of weakness.....in new kickass power intensive games, my CPU and GPU usage both tend to top out together, and as I tend to buy a new PC every time and make my current gaming PC my office PC and then my office PC my kitchen / diner PC and give the old lowest one away to charity / a friend I never upgrade them. With this PC that means when I need to upgrade again it will be because the two most expensive / important parts are BOTH lacking in power.
Also, and this is really important to note, I didn't pay anywhere NEAR the current price even though it currently has £60 off and I bought mine 4-5 months ago. I bought mine from Amazon Warehouse,
https://www.amazon.co.uk/b?node=3581866031
Basically, mine was bought by someone and returned by the purchaser as they decided it wasn't for them for whatever reason and then Amazon can't sell it as new as it has technically been used...maybe for a few weeks...so it's sold as 2nd hand. But mine was with all packaging, had a clean image on it, all the activation codes had been replaced and everything was perfect.
This is the third PC I have bought from Amazon Warehouse, and I really recommend it; you may only get a 30 day guarantee, but who's really had a PC that has been fine for 30 days and then failed fairly quickly after that?? Sure, there's a possibility a component can fail, but even if it did I'd still be quids in as mine was under £400.....amazing value. All 3 PCs and several other large electronic purchase also from Warehouse have been perfect are either still owned by me now and running or owned by friends I passed them onto, where they are still running - the oldest is 6 1/2 years old and is used by someone as a media server / web browser / jukebox to this day.
You can also buy components for a lot less money from them than you would pay on Amazon....again, I have with no probs.
Sorry if this sounds like an Amazon advert - I have not been paid for this advertorial, honest!!!
COMMENT ON Q:
So, I don't know much about the specific processor, but I would question the 6GB GFX card - two gamers I know have bought them and wish they hadn't spent the extra for the higher memory option as it's not where their system tops out, but I think this might depend a little on the kind of games you play. My 3GB GFX has been fine for me, but I'm a strategy / sim fan so maybe my experience is not relevant to your needs? I play modern sims with all the detail turned on/up with no problems.
Also I would agree with the 1x8GB RAM discussed above if you intend to keep this system and upgrade replace for years to come.
I don't agree with a need for an SSD - you're obviously not spending a huge budget, so your money is better spent elsewhere.
Finally, just for my friend - he would say you have to buy a dedicated soundcard but he's weird and thinks it's 1997!!!
I hope whatever you get gives you the gaming pleasure and pixellated goodness that my new PC has me!!!
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I was thinking of going 3GB, but looking at the requirements these days, the 6GB one looks like a better option. Plus, it's the AMP version, which should have better cooling (2 fans, 2 copper pipes).
I did the same mistake with my current computer (bought it pre-built) where I had a choice between 2GB VRAM or 1GB of VRAM and because of the price, I went 1GB. 1GB is pretty bad and the 2GB still handles itself pretty well for a card that old and cheap.
From my experience, the VRAM isn't important now, but it will be in the future :/
To be fair, I at first thought that a sound card is a must have as well :D
Thanks for the comment :D
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Yes, you need an SSD to join the Master Race as many have already pointed out, but I'll tell you something: the SSD prices will drop in 2018 (new NAND factories were built this year) so, in around 6 months, you could buy a 500GB SSD for the price you will pay now for a 250GB one. The price per GB of the 250GB units right now is pretty high.
EDIT: very important, pick one of these motherboards instead:
- ASRock - AB350M-HDV Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (AB350M-HDV)
- ASRock - AB350M Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard (AB350M)
The reason is the A320 chipset doesn't allow overclock, and you'll probably need this feature to fine tune the RAM frequency, because you have chosen overclocked RAM.
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Hmm, thanks for the tip. I personally don't know much about market states other than that "RAM's more expensive now" and even then I don't know of the reason.
So, I'll just wait for a price drop on SSD's.
As for the mobos, I changed my RAM to a 2133 Crucial 8GB stick. Mostly because I could upgrade the RAM that way. Would the change in mobos still be that important if I don't really plan on OCing the CPU?
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As for the mobos, I changed my RAM to a 2133 Crucial 8GB stick.
Wrong decision, buy the fastest RAM you can afford. Reason
Would the change in mobos still be that important if I don't really plan on OCing the CPU?
You will want/need to OC the CPU and/or the RAM because it has never been so simple. You don't need an aftermarket cooler and all Ryzen CPUs come with the multiplier unlocked. It's the OC for the masses :)
And I'm almost sure you'll need a B350 chipset to run the RAM at 3200 MHz, even if you don't want to OC the CPU.
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USD 800 translates to over EUR 900 here. Way over that original budget.
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Yeah, the dollar prices are way better sadly. (Well, good for you, bad for us :D)
When I built a computer on the US Amazon, the prices were around 150€ cheaper overall. But with import taxes, VAT and just pure shipping costs, the prices elevated to around 140% of the original price. It sucks that the market's like that though :/
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Are you for real suggesting a 2c/4t CPU? Enjoy seeing yourself left behind, especially now that Intel pushes for higher core CPUs which will force developers optimizing for a higher core count.
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For now that is. Unless you build to upgrade a couple of years later, I don't see this as a viable option that takes into account the future (as much as that can be done).
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I'd make a guess and say that after Intel and AMD both pushed for a higher core count, the developers will be "forced" to take advantage of those resources. Up to this point, the processors bought by common users were up to 4c no hyperthreading, from this point on that won't be the case anymore.
In no way am I saying that common tasks are not being benefited by the higher single-thread performance, but I'd rather take the hit now and lose some performance than be left behind in a couple of years (especially when my hardware life cycle is 6 or so years).
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Dear gods almighty, is every damn person here a tunel-visioned Intel groupie or something?
At any rate. Your build is fine except for two things.
The SSD was mentioned already. You can live on a faster HDD, especially on that WD Blue, but an SSD for system is always a good idea. A really cheap one helps a lot ott, you do not necessarily need to buy a Samsung EVO 950.
The RAM is too expensive. Buy a simple DDR4-2133 one. Higher megahertz on the RAM transfers to diddly dick in video gaming. If you really can blow this amount of money on RAM, buy a 2×8GB kit or just use the saved up money to buy an SSD.
Neeeever mind then.
This Ryzen build is solid otherwise and paired with that GPU should last as long as DirectX 12 does not become the norm.
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Wont ssd be butchered as a system drive ? Ive read that it dont like many write/read operations.
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I play games on it. And somehow I highly doubt that OP who wants to build a gaming PC to switch from consoles would start by doing programming courses. As strange as it may sound, only a handful of people on this planet use their home PC for compiling. :)
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DDR4 frequency has a very important impact in the FPS, I'm talking about a difference of 30 FPS in some games between 2133 and 3200 MHz RAM:
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Like others said everything looks fine. I would recommend getting a SSD and waiting for smaller prices for RAM would be ok too. But I don't think they will fall again in the near future.
The Ryzen CPU and the GPU are good too. Everything will fit and there will be no compatibility problems.
The PC should last easily for several years.
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Okay so first of all, I would like to know your Max budget that I could help pick parts.
I've been amd boy for over 10 years now, and I love it! But you should know that it heat a bit more then intel therefore you need good cooling for it.
If you are not planing on using multi-threading such video production, streaming, or running multiple apps at same time, then go with intel. Ryzen is killing intel when it comes to multi-threading while in single-threading like just for playing games you will get 10-15% more performance on intel.
for price you set in your pick I would suggest something like this https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wRVrZ8
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Hi,
Are you sure about the multi-threading part? I'm not 100% sure but I think it's the other way around. the other builders out there like jayz2cents said ryzen is not very good at multi threading but incredible at performing tasks one at a time. I'm using i7 skylake and I couldn't ask for more when running multiple heavy apps, rendering videos while photoshoping with other painting tools running in the background. another thing, I built my friend a ryzen 3, it's just ryzen 3 but it clearly shows you can only perform one task at a time, say we were copying something and we couldn't launch a game, even a 5th gen i3 processor can out perform it when it comes to that. and no, I'm not looking for debate, I'm just making sure we weren't mixing things up. I am not a boy of one side or another, I like computers in general. in fact, I was an AMD user before the content creation got involved.
Nice pick suggestion though.
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Yup 100% sure, I was researching for nearly 2 months before I bought my streaming PC. I was between i7 7700k and Ryzen 7 1700x and Intel is better for gaming but for multithreading Ryzen is killng it
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Most of the guys above did a lot of good suggestion so I'm not gonna bother adding up. I agree with them mostly.
One thing that I can say though is the gpu brand. I'm not sure if zotac improved their cooling but it was horrible back then. I even have this old gtx760amp and it just blew up without throttling or what, it just decided to flame up, killing the ram and motherboard with it. I don't even understand how it died, nor the guys superior than me. and that's the story why I have a skylake processor and kabylake motherboard, I couldnt find a skylake mobo that day. Zotac is okay I guess, it served me for few years well, but it wouldn't be my first choice anymore.
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I see you have about as many Steam games as I do.... So, let me share my experience: I recently got a new rig, with a small SSD (256Gb) and a larger HDD (1Tb, like yours). And I love my new computer.... except that I feel I am running out of room -- and I am not one to have tons of videos in my HD at all, it is just the games that are getting larger and larger these days.
It is not a disaster -- I can always uninstall some things before playing new ones -- but it is annoying, and it is the one thing I would change now (I will probably buy another larger SSD and put it in). I am happy with my GTX 1070 (1060 would probably be totally fine too), and though I will always say "get a good power supply", I am not knowledgeable enough to judge the one you have there.
So, I am NOT an expert, but, as an user, if you have the budget, I would say: (1) get an additional SSD (2) get a larger HDD.
Cheers!
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500GB is the sweet spot I'd say these days for 2.5 SSDs (only about 50% more expensive then 250GB on average, instead of being double the price like with M.2 SSDs). I bought a 500GB last Xmas and even when I've had huge games like DOOM 2016 installed I've had no issues with space.
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Hi there, everyone.
So, for the past week or so I've been trying to figure out a PC build. I don't usually ask for help with things like this, but I'm kind of at a loss.
First of all, is this build... possible, I guess? Like, would the parts physically fit (like the GPU) and does everything else seem fine here? While I know that the site itself gives you a warning if it detects any compatibility issues, I would rather be safe than sorry.
I don't really have much to offer as compensation other than those that help me would get a spot in my whitelist (probably not a good incentive, but whatever)
Giveaway
PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant
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