It's the same as 670 vs 680, i did some testing with my 670 when i had this desktop first day, there was a scoreboard for the testing i was doing, basically an evaluation test that put the gpu on heavy duty work, at the end it would get a score and would compare with other people with similiar score.
My asus gtx 670 with some tweaking got a better perfomance score than quite alot 680 models, most of the ones on top were radeons and titans along with 690's.
Back then when i bought my gpu, 670 was probably the best option in the market, or a 660ti. At least for geforce costumers. If i was building a computer today, i would probably would have bought a 760, which is 1 step behind the 670 and is alot more cheaper.
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I'll not say anything about the parts for now. But why on earth would anyone ever need a Bluray writer?
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Not with that other hardware, also he wouldn't have to ask then.
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I was talking about a good blu ray writer as my living rooms home cinema system can play burnt media (BD-R, BD-RE) so be handy for large series nicely organised on disk etc.
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And optical media is better in comparision to a HDD how? You can organize those very well too with the help of IMDB and so on if you want, plus media players like let's say a 3DFHDL support a lot more media.
But at least now I understand why you want a Bluray player, even if it doesn't make that much sense to me.
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To stop filling up my drives so much would be handy
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Yes I will only ever play on a single screen. And I want a burner to burn disks to play on my home cinema system in the living room instead of hammering HDD's all over the place? :)
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Is it quiet until you start hammering games? what temps on idle/gaming etc?
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It's a very quiet card, even when hammering games it's not that noticeable. Battlefield 4 runs beautifully.
My idle temp is around 33-38 degrees and gaming temp is around 80 degrees. The twin frozr system works wonders considering I only have two other fans in my computer at the moment.
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Isn't 80 Degrees something to start worrying about? Nothing serious but over prolonged load, the temperature might start going over that.
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Again with the "closed cabinet" thing... I'm tempted to make a "you're going to have a bad time" meme. Edit: http://i.imgur.com/pU6mkvg.jpg
NH-U12S by noctua £51.95 on amazon.co.uk
Also, you don't need a fan controller.
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And when I mention being in a closed cabinet, this is what i mean by it: http://www.dooleysfurniture.com/media/catalog/product/cache/3/image/500x500/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/b/r/brooklynoakcomputercabinetopen.jpg .... Cases still receive good enough air flow.
Yeah I seen that cooler, seems like it might be quite fimble and easily broke?
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lol I guess the coolermaster is like the nissan micra of coolers then? lol
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No, Coolermaster is good too but not as good as Noctua in this case. It depends on what CPU you have and what you do with it. If you have intel CPU and you don't overclock it then even default Intel cooler that hasn't changed for about 10 years will be enough.
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Looks like I mistook the 212 for a different CoolerMaster, terribly sorry...
The 212 is fine. One of the few CoolerMasters that actually are fine, because most are garbage, like I said. So there's no need to get something else. Go with the 212.
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Yeah I did review up this coolermaster which is why i selected it as a likely buy :D
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Your link is broken. Here is the correct link to the page.
http://www.dooleysfurniture.com/brooklyn-oak-computer-cabinet.html
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I see people keep saying get a Intel Core i5-4670K instead, but the i7 is only £75 or so dearer and a better CPU and more future proof.
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Fact is, you can save those £75 because you will most likely see NO difference in performance in games. They just don't use the power of an i7 cpu.
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Haha, i can live without, a decent PC t be built is a priority after never having an actual good PC lol
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What about a Xigmatek Gaia its a very good and cheap cpu-fan.
I would pick a EVGA Geforce GTX760 FTW with 4GB of RAM
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God damn it dude! It's not vRAM that matters in graphics cards! If you have atleast 8GB RAM in your computer you won't need more than 2GB RAM for your graphics card. And even those 2GB will never be used by the games that are available at the moment. Maybe in few years...
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You do know games are going to push the necessary ram memory to 8GB?
Vram atm, 1GB is enough imo. But i would recommend 2GB VRAM minimum and a good i5/i7 CPU for long term.
If he wants a computer that will last throughout the next generation he should research on the consoles specs after release and build accordingly, my desktop was built before any of the consoles was displayed to the public and i pretty much took my basis off the heaviest pc games at the time and built with double/triple the recommended specs to run them on ultra. Games such as Crysis 3, Bioshock Infinite and a few others.
First component that will need a change is my gpu, an asus geforce gtx670. It will work for the next gen but will eventually need a replacement as new tech improvements are released for future new series for the geforce gpu's. This is if it won't burn itself up by then.
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Ok i thought it would be a good idea to tell him about this card because battlefield 4 wants 3gb of vram.
He can choose the 770 if he want to....by the way can someone tell me about the difference (performance) between the gtx 760 FTW from EVGA and the gtx 770.
I have the Xigmatek Gaia and it is quiet, cheap and it cools my i5-3570k to max. 40°C while gaming
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No point for i7 if you are not gonna work with video and graphic programs. In games difference between i5 and i7 is max 5fps. And since games can't use all cores i7 has there's no point of it. And it looks like they won't use them for some years so i5 is the way to go at the moment. When games use full potential of 6 or 8 cores then you can think about getting CPU like that. And then there will be much newer available for same price so no point getting one now.
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5fps can make the difference between a slight stutter or momentarily a slideshow haha, Having a pathetic PC like I still have it does anyway haha. I do the odd video editing but only for videos I record via the 1080p camera.
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If you're unlikely to need overclocking, then don't go for a 4770K (Don't need that for gaming anyway) and for a Z87 Motherboard.
Instead go for a Xeon E3-1230V3 and a H87-Motherboard (Gigabyte H87-HD3 for instance) - you'll save a LOT (~150$) without sacrificing performance.
Also IF you go for the 4770K-Option and want to overclock sometime, the Hyper 212 won't help much - unless you only overclock without raising the voltage.
And the power supply you selected is utter crap!
Try a BeQuiet! Straight Power E9 with 480W (Yes, 480W is more than enough...)
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Hmm, I still think i'd prefer a more powerful PSU for piece of mind and future purposes like if I decided to possibly go SLi, any recommendations? Seasonic built that XFX XXX and it is the same technology as the TX750V2 by Corsair.
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If Seasonic builds it then it's great. Ignore that other guy.
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And isn't it other manufacturers building better stuff for equal or less money also possible? Plus there's lots of instances of manufacturers "abusing" their rep and making worse products. The XFX power supply here is built by seasonic, but seasonic builds all kinds of power supplies, in every price range - and ever wonderer why there's 750W power supplies for $50 and $200? There's a difference, and it's not only price, but also build quality and realiablity, efficieny, loudness, security, consumer service by the manufacturer (BeQuiet! has got a great one, whereas seasonics is rather standart)
The XFX is inefficient, hot, not built for SLI or Crossfire and a liability because of the single rail design. IF (not impliyng there will be, but there may, see link in my other post) there's a problem with the current regulation or an over-current, the OCP won't work and your PC will likely be fried.
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God a good recommendation? I'd feel better having a 600w or something, my brother was saying he had a BFG 800w once and it had coil squeel etc.
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I'm still pointing out to the fact that a single graphics card and a normal CPU (even if overclocked) don't need that much power.
But if you want to feel safer (which is a waste of money imho) you could go for a BeQuiet Straight Power E9 580W (Never, ever think about beQuiet!'s Power Zone-series, they're god awful) or (And I'd definitely reccomend that for SLI/Crossfire) a Dark Power P10 (550W with single GPU, 650W with dual GPU)
Other fine power supplies are the Enermax Platimax (Bit overpriced though) and Revolution 87+ (although the latter is rather outdated).
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They are expensive but good brands, Maybe i'll go for the BeQuiet Straight Power E9 580W. BTW what do you have?
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Problem is the parts are much more expensive in the UK than the US for example :| .... hmm how about the Be Quiet Dark Power Pro 10 550W PSU?
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The Dark Power is, from a technical Standpoint currently the best power supply money can buy you. I'd deem it a bit too much for a normal everyday PC, but then again, there's enthusiasts demanding the best.
Checking UK prices, the BeQuiet! Power supplies are still the most interesting ones for the price (I'm from Germany, so prices are similar here) - if you wanna go cheaper, then maybe the Pure Power L8 with 500W or 530W if you want cable management. The Only non-BQ! alternative for an interesting price would be the FSP Fortron Aurum Series - but then again, they only go for 2 - 3 pounds less than the beQuiet, have worse capacitors and much louder fans.
The Straight Power series also have 5 years of warranty, the pure power only 3. Aurum series has 5 years too, as do the Enermax ones (stil overpriced though)
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Those $50 750W were not built by Seasonic, they were built by CWT or worse. And hey, the XFX has an 80+ cert...last I checked that still stood for something...sure gold or platinum would be better, but bronze is still a cut above the rest so calling it inefficient is just daft.
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Why go for bronze, if you can go for gold for pretty much the same price? I mean, he wants to build a nice gaming PC and obviously has got some money on the side for it. If this were a PC for $500 then yeah, a bronze would do. But for 1000+ ? I'd never save money on the power supply.
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Heh, actually gonna put a Antec HCG 620M in my next build for 2K. Though almost 1K of that is due to a much weaker currency where tech is more expensive.
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Why go for an outdated power supply (the tech in there is about 8 years old) with a loud fan and 620W?
620W is useless, since it's not good enough for multiple graphics cards (unless you wanna dual up some middle-class like the 7790 or GTX660) and too much for a single graphics card.
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Cuz I only want a single card and I like having a safety cushion, besides it's not too much for a 780 since the minimum requirement it recommends is 600W. Not to mention I can't get most of the other ones or they have crazy inflated prices. And cuz it's still good, not the greatest, but still good, and I need to cut on all the other parts to shove a 780 into the system.
I've never cared much about system noise either...in fact I kind of like the roar of a high-power system with high-RPM fans. And during summer it's all drowned out by the stand-up fan next to me anyways.
It's also quite a large step up quality wise from the Gigabyte Odin 720W (620W continuous) I have powering my current system (which was the best I could get back then).
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The reccomendation is there for people who have bad power supplies. Ever wonderer why you can buy 600W power supplies for as low as 20 Bucks? Do you think those actually deliver 600W? No. And that's why the reccomendation on the carton is there, for people who've got utter crap in their systems.
Take the Intertech Energon 650W for instance - it has 650W, so it should be enough for the GTX780, right? Wrong! While it has four seperate 12V rails with 18A each, which should result in an output of 864W (200W over the spec!) the model often is sold with only two 12V-rails (even if the label says otherwise) - which results in a power ouput of measly 430W - take the low, low, low efficiency into account and that thing will suck out 600W out of the grid to deliver 400W. Plus even if the 12V rails are 18A each, tests have shown that the power supply cracks at 300 - 500W (very model-dependant) - Plus the graphics card manufacturer doesn't know which CPU you're using, worst case you have a dual-socket Board with two Xeons or a (hopefully not) FX9590 CPU, both of them draw more than 200W power. Added up with the GTX780 and other System components that could easily exceed 500W power draw in gaming usage - then again, in that case, I'd also reccomend 600W or more. But this is an utterly rare scenario.
Lok at the power measurements. The GTX780 draws 250W, your processor probably 100 - 120W, depending on the model - makes about 350W, 400W if your system is strongly overclocked. A good gold efficiency 500 - 550W model then has a safety cushion that's big enough.
As for the noise, that's your problem, I like it the exact other way around.
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Exactly, and they both suck.
I'd never go for a single rail power supply at home. You know why?
Because this may happen:
http://www.overclock.net/t/944707/why-single-rail-is-not-better-than-multi-rail
A 480 W power supply is just fine. The GTx770 needs 200W in gaming, the Xeon (or i5, i7) need between 80 and 100W - so we're at about 300W. You can ignore the rest, since that doesn't need much power (20W for everything else, like HDDs, fans and such)
If you're going for SLI, you either do that rightaway (but it's OP for one FullHD screen, you'll be able to play visibly better since you avoid microstutters and other problems if going for just one GPU) or you don't do SLI at all - since in a year or two there's gonna be better single-GPU options than the GTX770 SLI. Dual graphics only make sense for screens @ a rez of 1440p and higher, or multi-monitor systems (say 3 * 1080p)
Future graphics cards will consume equal or less power than current models. You're safe that way, trust me (or look at power measurements at review-sites)
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My brother recommends his Corsair CX500 and I was looking at the GS 2013 versions but they have god awful reviews :|
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Well, you can wait forever, or just buy when you actually need it. Haswell doesn't get that hot, with a good cooler it's very controllable - also, who cares if the CPU has 70 or 80 degrees? nobody should - the performance increase in comparision to Ivy was disappointing, yes, but it was the same from Sandy to Ivy (-> more heat, low perf. increase).
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My i5 4670 runs on 25-30 on idle and reaches 40 when fully loaded. I'm not using the boxed cooler though, I'm using a Thermalright HR-02 Macho.
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You're on the right track! Great Build.
As long as you're paying no more than $320 for that GTX 770
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I can get the MSI 2GB version for £235, but i have been reading I should perhaps go for the 4GB version of the card due to BF4 eating up the Vram?
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That wouldn't make sense. 4GB aren't necessary for 1920 * 1080 resolution.
Plus, the MSi variant with 4GB goes for 290 and up. For 310, you could get the 20% faster R290 (though you'd have to wait 2 - 3 weeks until the custom desings are out, the reference is utter crap) which always has 4GB Vram on board. Seems like the better deal for me. Still, the GTX770 2GB would be enough and with an interesting performance/price-ratio.
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But the higher the textures, AA and filtering the heaps in Vram is used. What would you go for if you don't plan on upgrading GPU for like 2years or so.
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Well I actually would plan on upgrading my GPU every two years, since you can sell the old one for a nice price, then the budget flows into the new GPU. Makes more sense than wasting 50+ pounds on "I might need that someday"
If you want 4GB VRam, go for a custom R290
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You don't need i7, get i5 4670k and use the money you saved for a Noctua NH-D14 CPU cooler, costs around 70. Best air cooler on the market, but that fucker is fat.
Why are you getting 500GB SSD? They aren't cheap enough yet to be used as storage, Get 120GB for OS and applications and buy few extra HDDs.
For that build 600W PSU will be enough, and investing into gold rated will be good idea. Unless you plan on going for SLI in the future.
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I'll just get a 250gb samsung evo, what is the difference with that to a NH-U12S?
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It only has one tower and 120mm fan with an option to add another. D14 has two towers, 140mm fan and 120mm. With D14 you have to be careful with the RAM, because it is so big, that you might accidentally buy RAM that won't fit that fatty. Just google picture search the NH-D14 and you'll see just how big that bad boy is.
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Although I'm using an nh-D14 myself, it's not the best air cooler on the market - the Thermalright Silver Arrow is (although just by a mere degrees) but he doesn't want to overclock that far anyway. I'd go for a Mugen 4 if the overclocking-option ist a must-have. The U12S is overpriced imho.
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Hi guys, I am finally going to pursue in upgrading my PC! But I need a little help please... I already have a 24" BenQ (1ms) 1920x1080 LED Gaming Monitor ready for the build. It's just a case of getting the parts now. Ok so this is the likelihood of the system:
Case: Zalman Z9 Plus Tower (Black) Case with Fan Controller (I like the look of this and it's the perfect size to fit my closed cabinet) A mid sized tower is perfect for me.
I also have a Arctic Cooling Arctic F12 Pro PWM Case Fan to add in, a good 120mm green LED Coolermaster and perhaps even a Coolermaster 200mm Red LED fan that iv'e never used.
PSU: XFX 750W XXX Edition ProSeries Semi-Modular 80+ Bronze PSU
Motherboard[/B]: Asus Z87-PRO USB 3.0 Motherboard (4x DDR3, ATX, 2x PCI Express 3.0/2.0, Intel, Wi-Fi)
CPU: Intel Core i7-4770K 3.50GHz (Haswell) Socket LGA1150 Processor
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO (120mm) - Any help on a decent reliable cooler I can get? No more than £50 or so?
RAM: Corsair CMZ8GX3M2A1600C9 Vengeance 8GB (2x4GB) DDR3 1600 Mhz CL9 XMP Performance Desktop Memory Kit Black
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 770 Twin Frozr Gaming Edition Graphics Card - 2GB
SSD: Samsung 840 EVO 500GB 2.5 inch Basic SATA Solid State Drive
Any recommendations on a good Blu-Ray writer?
If I should change certain parts, if so what and why?
With all this spec take into account I hope for it to be at-least 4-5 years future proof and of course within 2 years likely to upgrade GPU - which is usually the case.
I should state I am unlikely to need to OC, if anything a mild overclock in time but nothing aggressive.
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