So I have realized how old my current pc is and know it is time for an upgrade. I would like some suggestions and what I could change or what could stay the same. I want to keep it below the Grand total of $1300, so let me hear what you have to say!

PS: I have taken in many of your suggestions and have updated my part list!
PSS: I have once again updated the part list!

What i'm currently doing: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/s6BvGX (updated version 3)

8 years ago*

Comment has been collapsed.

Is this good enough?

View Results
Yes
No
Mostly
Mostly Not

Looks to be slightly better than mine, and I can run most games.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

ok, good to hear

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Quite a bit under 1300, http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/rvgt23
$1184.89

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

thanks, looks good, I might use it, or some of it

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

GPU is a bit underwhelming. I'd vamp that up with the extra cash you have in your budget.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

ok, I want to stick with nvdia, what card would you reccomend

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

+1. Honestly, at this price point, go for the GTX 960.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

to lazy to click and check.. just let ya know that gpu as long it has 2gigs (gddr5) and 256bits.. you'll be ok. As for CPU remember that for games is speed over number of cores. Ram I honestly have no idea why DDR4 is even thing... ddr3 works just fine, but that's up to you.

You probably already know this, but a power supply TT of 800w reals will do, no need to buy a 1.200w.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

yep I know, thanks for not being too lazy to write this message though :)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

that CPU is pretty beasty but your graphics card is on the weak side, maybe move some money from one to another.

for AMD the "old" R9 280/290 are going cheap because they are beeing cleared out, so you could look for one of those. i seen the 280 go for 200$.

and in NVIDIA, i guess a GTX 760 is your best bet. maybe a cheap GTX 770

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

ok I will consider that

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I don't have that much knowledge about the components so I rather say nothing than tell you something false, but having the same monitor, I can tell you that it's pretty top and works just fine for doing casual stuff as well as for gaming :)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

yeah, I hear them BenQ's are pretty good

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

+1, BenQ user here, been happy with my BL24.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

i would pick a cheaper mobo (there z-xx for less than $100) and use that money for a gtx960 or a r9 380

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

ok, thanks for your input

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Do you care about Metal Gear games? Nvidia is going to bundle the last Metal Gear Kojima will ever make.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

nope, sorry I have never really tried metal gear, but I like NVidia so there is nothing stopping me from doing that and giving the game a try :)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

i like it.
you could change the HDD to 5400rpm. they are cheaper, and you shouldn't feel the difference (at least that's what i gathered).

everything else seems fine. i would buy it

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

ok, thanks

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

don't even think about going for 5400 lol

btw optimize the partitions (outer layer = faster than inner)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I put together an i7-4790k/GTX 970 build for around that budget for someone else not too long ago (was ~$1,100 without a monitor).

Tried to approximate it on that site with your monitor and came up just under budget by leaving out an SSD: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/Xtqmzy

Some thoughts on your build:
You use a nice motherboard and an aftermarket cooler, but account for that cost by only getting the 4690k. Instead of overclocking, you could just get the performance from a 4790k (4.0 stock with 4.4ghz turbo) with stock heatsink and a cheaper H97 motherboard. The i7 has hyper-threading while the i5 does not, so that is something to consider.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

That build should be different:

OP should drop the optical drive (if OP really needs it, it can be a future upgrade, as Windows can easily be installed through USB), drop the CPU to an i5 4690K (an i7 would be overkill unless OP wants to do video editing and streaming), add an aftermarket CPU cooler for overclocking, and use the money saved on an SSD.

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/Vb6r8d

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

An SSD is really nice. Having used one myself I'd never go back to not having one, but I've always regretted getting only an i5.

The H97 chipset is not suitable for overclocking (the anniversary board chosen only advertises capabilities with the G2358 processor). For that you'd want to use the Z97 chipset.

You could call the 4790k overkill, but it's substantially faster for multi-threaded applications (~45% on synthetics) and it'd be an increase to the useful lifespan of the computer. You can just buy an SSD at any time without thinking much about it, but buying a new CPU usually involves a new motherboard (assuming you keep a CPU for a couple of years) and possibly a new memory standard. Plus, SSDs are always dropping in price.

8 years ago*
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

dropping the optical drive wont be a problem at all

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

and thanks all for the input

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Get 16G or RAM, memory is cheap and you won't regret it (or run out of memory anytime soon for that matter)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I don't think it is worth it, games only now are starting to go over 8 GB and I don't really want anything coming out any time soon except maybe fallout 4, that's just my opinion.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Depends on what you do. I often multi-game when playing something turn-based or team-based. Basically, it gives you the ability to seed nearly n+∞ number of torrents and play one or two demanding games while having all your social/IM services run in the background. Depends on the game engine tho, Alt+Tab can make some engines go haywire :-/

And, its sort of an re-assurance for just 50 bucks or so :)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I have 16GB, but I rarely use/exceed 50% of it unless I'm doing memory intensive tasks (video encoding, large dictionary LZMA compression, running multiple virtual machines, etc.). As long as you don't get a Micro ATX motherboard with only two DIMM slots, it would be cheap and easy to upgrade to 16GB later on down the road if you ever find yourself exhausting your available memory.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I would have to agree with velocity on this one, im willing to upgrade later, but not get the full 16GB off the bat

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

+1
I have 16 just because, and I love it

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

You kinda went cheap on the power supply, and I do NOT recommend doing that at all. 500w is the bare low end for the build you've posted, and I usually recommend to clients to go 20% more than what they need in a PSU. Also, I'd go with a PSU with a Gold rating, as the components are typically much better, thus ensuring a longer lifespan, less ripple, and better efficiency. Try to find one with a single powerful 12v rail, as that's most important for a gaming PC.

Long story short - I'd go with a 600-650w+ Gold rated PSU. Corsair is a good choice, though.

You'd be spending more, but never skimp on the PSU, it's the backbone of your rig.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Got it, thank you sir

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Gold rated means more efficiency. It has nothing to do with ripple and components lasting longer... Please get educated before saying things.

quote from wiki " Such PSUs waste 20% or less electric energy as heat at the specified load levels, reducing electricity use and bills compared to less efficient PSUs." It is pretty much Eco thing.

Only worth getting if you are worried about our dear Planet Earth and your electric bills. Otherwise it fine to get any brand name power supply that meets your needs.

8 years ago*
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Apparently YOU are the one in need of education when it comes to power supplies.

Yes, Gold rating does refer to the unit's efficiency ---

HOWEVER -- that extra efficiency is achieved through the use of higher quality components. Those better components also tend to lead to less ripple in the units and a much longer lifespan than a lower-rated power supply. They also tend to come with better warranties (as the manufacturers know they will last longer anyway).

The next time you decide to "correct" someone, please be sure you know what you're talking about.. Read a few reviews instead of wiki. ;)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I will correct you again. It has longer warranty because it's more expensive, and possibly they use higher quality caps and better design to last their long warranty period. I will say it again, it has nothing to do with Gold rating, there are some 80Plus PSU's with better design and better quality components inside. Tested some of them with my scope...
Leaving reviews aside, you ever opened any PC PSU?

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Again I will correct you, good sir. They use higher quality components to achieve the higher efficiency rating, less ripple, and longer lifespan/reliability. These specifications aren't mutually exclusive of one another. The warranty has little/nothing to do with the cost of the unit -- i.e. EVGA offers the same warranty on a $100 500w PSU as they do a $450 1500w PSU (as do XFX, Corsair, and Seasonic, among others). It has everything to do with a company's reputation and quality.

There are some lower-rated PSUs with better components inside, but I believe we can both agree that the chances of getting better components inside comes with getting a higher-rated power supply from a reputable company.

To answer your question - yes, I've opened dozens (if not more) of power supplies in my lifetime - modified them, changed out components, and repaired them in many cases. As a reviewer (and custom PC builder), it's my job to open them and inspect the components. ;)

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

What components you referring to?
Please tell me about ripple difference from 80Plus or Gold rated PSU's. How you check them, what equipment you are using to test PSU's and write reviews?

Is there any links you can post here?

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Hey there,

I have no hands on experience with most of the components listed, but here's what I think (looking only at specs of said components):

  1. DEFINITELY, get an SSD!
  2. I suggest you get a single 8GB RAM stick so you can add more later (Assuming 4 RAM slots, 8x4=32GB is the maximum your CPU can handle). 1600Hz, CL9 RAM is optimal.
  3. Get the GTX 970 instead because it's the cheapest card with FULL directx 12 support, ensuring longevity of your computer.
    Also note that with the 500W power supply, SLI will work fine, but wouldn't be optimal since the net wattage would be greater than 500W/2=250W
  4. You may find a cheaper motherboard with the same specs and save a few bucks.
  5. If you can go without the optical drive, drop it. That would decrease boot time a little too.

Have fun building and don't hesitate to ask even the silliest of questions!

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

only problem I have with dumping the optical is idk how to get my operating system on any other ways

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

A very clever way I only just recently tried is to put the Windows Installer on the drive you're going to install the OS to before physically installing it in the new machine, which makes the hard drive install its own OS on first boot :) I did this because I had to do some repair work on a laptop while I was in the middle of a move and didn't have access to a USB drive larger than 2GB.

But the traditional way is to take a flash drive (8GB+) and use a tool that copies the contents of the Windows ISO to the flash drive and makes it bootable. Then booting from the USB drive is just like booting from an installation disc, except faster in most cases.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

is your old computer a desktop? you could just snatch the optical drive out of that.

8 years ago*
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

You can easily create a USB installer drive! Get any 8GB (or greater) pen drive and use rufus to create the installer using either your Windows physical disc or image.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Bobdamek, thank you lol, im so stupid, I can just do that!

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

if you want an SSD, I'd advise having the 7200 HDD and use a small SSD (128) only for gaming and heavy programs

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

The 4790 is almost the same price as a 4690, try to get one of those.
Since your cooler is just a low-end one, don't get the K variants, get the normal 4690 or 4790. Overclocking rarely gives enough boost to actually justify doing it. Those whopping 2-3 frames per seconds increase over a 100 USD cooler are… well, stupid.
Don't buy a GTX 960. If you really are that short on funds, either get an AMD card or somehow manage to get a GTX 970.
You don't need more than 400 Watts for that config.
Unless you really want to upgrade further, you don't need an ATX mobo. A simple m-ATX with 1×16 PCIe slot would suffice just the same. And you can find ones with 4 memory slots even there.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Would you recommend a new cooler? What I have atm is affordable and I am kind of liking it, but would you recommend a new cooler instead?

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Almost anything from Zalman or Thermaltake. They both make really good air coolers.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Thank you! ill definitely look into them!

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Personally, if I were going with that build I would opt for a Coolermaster Hyper 212 Evo cooler. The reason being that:
a) it's cheaper than the Zalman you picked, but also because

b) it allows you to buy off-the-shelf fans to either upgrade or replace the fan that comes with it should you ever need to. The cooler comes with one fan, but also comes with brackets to add a second for a push-pull configuration. Besides that, it's an excellent cooler as well and will handle stock speeds as well as moderate overclocks. And if you do have temperature issues if you do decide to overclock, well, that's when you have the option to swap fans for ones with greater airflow (Corsair SP series perhaps).

Just something else for you to consider.

EDIT: Just for the record, I have built a number of systems using that cooler. I have an i5 4570K right now with that cooler on it... mind you, it's running stock right now, but I play all sorts of games on it and I don't hear it at all because it never heats up enough for the fans to hit high speeds.

8 years ago*
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

ok I think I will do that instead

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

And OS?

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

An OS is really cheap. I got a genuine copy of W8.1 Pro from Reddit for 25 bucks.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I already have an unused copy of windows 8.1

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Isn't better a GTX 970 over a 4gb 960?

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

it is, but also a lot more expensive

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

But the difference is a lot, and I can see that you have an OC cpu build. I can suggest that if you can't afford the gtx970, you could lower the price of your motherboard and processor and get it (from my opinion the gpu is more important).

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

so im rolling with a GTX 970 now, I have also decided that going with $1400 wont hurt too much so im liking what I have there now

8 years ago*
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

well, now this looks really nice!

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I think im going to go with this, and start buying parts soon

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

What i'm currently doing: http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/4Pn2D3 (updated version 2) ---> For me that hdd its not really worth it, i bought a 2tb for 80 € (i had 1 tb and all my partitions were almost full T.T) Edit, I saw my hdd in that website and its more expensive, my hdd its for 100$ :p

8 years ago*
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I would suggest you this card. And here you can see some reviews.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

I wold go with a Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO - CPU Cooler with 120 mm PWM Fan - http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099 buying a second fan and attaching it so you can achieve a push pull cooling system. Also the Noctua heat sinks are great, very quiet. So it all depends on what you want to spend. I recently built an upgrade project getting some parts used and some new and now I'm much happier with my pc.

8 years ago
Permalink

Comment has been collapsed.

Closed 8 years ago by FutureCaribou.