So I ended up adopting a one week (?) old kitten. Long and sad story behind it, not gonna go into details.
I never had a house pet before. There used to be cats around here recently which my neighbors and I took care of, but they were adults and lived outside. As there are many cat lovers around here and the community is so helpful I figured I should ask for tips here as well. Yes, I did call a vet and he prescribed some vitamins and the vaccines will be made tomorrow.

I have tons of questions. How much do they sleep when they are so little? Should I let her roam about the room or keep her close? How do I make a litter box (they don't just sell them in supermarkets)? How do I know she wants to go? What kind of milk is best for her (powder or regular)? I need to go to work, is it ok to leave her in a one square meter box for 8 hours? Should I let her go outside the house sometimes?
More questions. If she's licking my hand does it mean she's still hungry?
I live in an third world country, many everyday things are not available here so I will have to improvise, like making a bed for her. Any advice and shared experience is appreciated.
Thank you for dropping by. Kitteh pictures will be added soon.

And here she is, she is as small as the palm of my hand. I have absolutely 0 experience with animals this young so I might be a bit off about her age. The last time I saw the adults alive was Friday night and perhaps I misunderstood the vet since my French is not that good. He prescribed some vitamins to put in her milk starting tomorrow, that I'm sure I got correctly.

View attached image.
8 years ago*

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How much do they sleep when they are so little?

A lot.

Should I let her roam about the room or keep her close?

Keep the kitty around you, maybe let the kitty walk around the house to get used to it. Be careful tho.

How do I make a litter box?

Supermarkets don't sell them? Go to a pet shop and with a litle more money you should buy a closed litter box (so it won't smell bad)
If you can't buy one, try to get a plastic box or something, put sand inside and it should work.

I need to go to work, is it ok to leave her in a one square meter box for 8 hours?

I do this with my cat, he doesn't eat it all tho.

Should I let her go outside the house sometimes?

Sure why not? Be careful because of the other cats.

I live in an third world country, many everyday things are not available here so I will have to improvise, like making a bed for her.

Get a old pillow and a old shirt. Did this with my cat. Do it in a way it doesn't look ugly.

EDIT: blacklisted well ok...

8 years ago
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I really appreciate your help. You tried to give away a free game at some point, removed from blacklist.

8 years ago
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I always giveaway free games here and post the link in description and ask to remove the giveaway when the winner gets the code.
Thanks.

8 years ago
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This is pretty much what I was going to say.

You can make a bed for a cat out of pretty much anything. My cat's bed is a basket filled with blankets. He prefers to sleep on the floor, though.

8 years ago
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@Swagalicious01 was pretty well right about everything.

My cats actually sleep with me in the bed, though I do have a pillow that one cat sleeps on ON the bed.

Going outside can be dangerous if not an outdoor cat, if you raise the cat indoors all the time it wont learn the survival skills necessary to survive outside alone. So you might want to go outside with it the first few times, or you could even do what I do with one of mine and get a leash and walk it like a dog.

In the box just make sure there is food and water and some old clothes for her to sleep on. She will probably use the bathroom in there at first until she is big enough to be in your house/apartment by herself without you monitoring her.

http://www.amazon.com/Pureness-Giant-Litter-Assorted-Colors/dp/B000084F3T/ref=sr_1_10?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1446064305&sr=1-10&keywords=litter+box You don't need anything fancy, just something that looks like that. It works wonders for me, as to the problem of smell I suggest scooping it daily changing out the litter/whatever you decide to use as litter regularly.

Since the kitty is so little you don't want her eating something that could she could choke on or that is poisonous so you should keep her around you as Mr Swag said. However, also it's a great idea to let her wander and explore, and it's really fun to watch them do it too!

Some cats sleep more than others, but generally speaking cats sleep a lot. I have one cat that is perfectly healthy that sleeps 12-15 hours a day and one cat that sleeps about 8 hours a day. They did about the same when they were kittens. But she will be sleeping a lot and when she's a awake she will be needing lots of love! Take good care of her!

8 years ago
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Thank you for your input. I found kitty litter at the supermarket and bought some powdered milk as well. I fed her twice since I found her (seven hours ago), so far she didn't pee, I'm a bit worried about that even though I followed others advice and rubbed her with a damp sponge. The funny thing is she did pee by herself outside after my neighbor's dog licked her. I'll go check on her when I get a break at work. I hope she'll be all right, she cried a lot when I left.

8 years ago
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Since the kitty is so little you don't want her eating something that could she could choke on or that is poisonous so you should keep her around you as Mr Swag said.
Related note, when looking at cat toys, be careful to never let cats play with strings unsupervised. If they accidentally eat it, it can clog up their digestion and cause health problems. :X.

8 years ago
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Yes, she will cry because she's lonely. It will happen when you go to bed, when you leave for work, every time you leave her. Maybe she needs a kitty friend? It's good for kittens to socialize. Get one that's a little bit older so you don't have to worry about health concerns but not too old as to bully or hurt the other kitten? And I would wait until this kitten is about 6 to 8 weeks old so she is strong enough to actually play with another kitten. Sadly, the only thing to do in the meantime is let her fall asleep and when you come back/wake up give her lots of love and attention to show her you didn't abandon her.

8 years ago
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Holy shit.
Swag made an actual, helpful, well-thought out post that was concise, to the point, and gasp not trolling.
Miracles DO happen. I have officially seen everything. Removing you from my blacklist for now.

@OP:
Whether or not you let her outside depends on if you want her to be an indoor cat or an outdoor cat.
Cats live MUCH longer if they are strictly indoors only. If you consider letting her go outside, ever, DO NOT declaw her. If performed on a human being, declawing would be like cutting off each finger at the last knuckle. You should give this a read.

8 years ago
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Its fun to be helpful once in a while...

8 years ago
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declawing would be like cutting off each finger at the last knuckle

It sounds a bit like some kidnap+torture story: if you are not going to release the victim anyway, cutting the fingers off is just fine...

8 years ago
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I have adopted orphan cats but they weren't so small. Sorry that I can't help but have a bump for been awesome!
Hope others can help you and give good suggestion (and I will learn too)

8 years ago
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How do I make a litter box (they don't just sell them in supermarkets)?

Any low plastic container can be used if it is easy to get in and out of. I find that most litter boxes sold are not large enough for our cats so I just used a plastic tote with one side cut down slightly.

How do I know she wants to go?

They will pretty much instinctively will use a little box if you put them in after feeding. But it might take a while until they are ready to use it own their own.

I need to go to work, is it ok to leave her in a one square meter box for 8 hours?

I'm not sure that this is ideal for such a young kitten, but they do sleep a lot. Make sure it is a box they can't easily crawl out of.

Should I let her go outside the house sometimes?

I would wait until the cat is old enough to fend for itself if possible -- maybe 9 months to a year or more.

Good luck and congratulations! :)

8 years ago
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Thank you for all the advice. The box I have is tall enough but I will come check on her between breaks since it's just a walk from home.

8 years ago
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+1

Quisty, if you live in a city or town i suggest you don't leave the kitty get out of the house before it is at least 15 weeks old (talking by experience :/ cars hate kitties :( )

8 years ago
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I live in a hotel with a huge garden, employees appartments are separated and on the ground floor, no need to worry about cars. I'm more worried about parasites and cruel people :(

8 years ago
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Sorry I can't help, but I'd like pics of that pussy pls.

8 years ago
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You shouldn't leave it alone for that long, it needs company as it's missing it's mum very much. Maybe elaborate us on why you have it so early?

edit: Best time to adopt a kitten is after 8 weeks.

edit2: Best way is to go to a pet shop and buy a litterbox, put her/him on it a few times per day. Or if you see him/her do her business somewhere else pick her up and put her in the litter box.

8 years ago*
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All the other cats were poisoned. I have no idea how she survived without her mother for so many days. I live in Guinea, there are no pet shops around here sadly.

8 years ago
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ffs That sucks man, the person who did that should be hanged.

8 years ago
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Shit... that's hard to stomach.
I don't really know much about taking care of a cat so I'd rather leave that for the experts, but I'm really glad you rescued her. Thank you.

8 years ago
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8 years ago
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There are kits you can buy for bottle feeding small kittens such as the one you have. I used to be a veterinary assistant and would take in litters of kittens that were too small to eat dry/wet food or had their eyes open. Generally they'll eat every 4-8 hours, they need to be expressed (take a damp rag and wipe their bottoms/genitals and do that before and or after feeding (You'll have to be patient with them as you do it). Never feed them straight up if you can help it, try to keep it laying flat and natural as if it were feeding from mom. You can make a litter box from the cardboard bottom of a case of water, just add litter and voila. At 1-2 weeks old it's going to be a couple more weeks before they can use the box. At 8 weeks, take the kitten in for FELV/FIV testing and start their vaccinations.

Sorry for the jumping around but hopefully you get the idea. Don't be hurt/shocked/surprised if the kitten doesn't make it. I've had more than one kitten not live through it's first few weeks of life on it's own.

8 years ago
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Thanks for the tips, I will do my best to take care of her. I posted a picture to figure out her age at least. She has her eyes opened and I did see her pee by herself when I took her from outside. She cannot eat from a bowl, I tried with a syringe but we both ended up getting soaked. There is nowhere I can get a special feeder, I will ask the vet again, but he said she should be able to eat from the bowl. The only way I got her to eat was from the palm of my hand, adding milk little by little as she lapped it.
All of my cats died poisoned recently. It wasn't until today someone found her in a storage room and let her out in the garden. To me it's a miracle that she's still alive. If she makes it I'll be happy, otherwise at least I've tried.

8 years ago
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I haven't read all the tips but some advice from me. I never had to take care of such a small creature but there was a litter that was born nearby and we fed the mother. When a small one got ill later on, we had to give it some meds with syringe and we learnt a trick: gently press your fingers in the middle of the cheekst on both sides to make her mouth open. You can first try on yourself - you can't close your mouth then, it's slightly open. Then you can put the syringe inside the kitten's mouth. I know it sounds scary but just be gentle :)

8 years ago
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It may take forever but at least it's eating. Keep in mind if it is going outside to use the restroom, good chance it'll get fleas and if it has fleas or "flea dirt" (flea feces - little bits of dirt like objects that if put onto a paper towel and sprayed will end up turning red and brown) then it'll probably end up getting worms, so I would highly suggest taking it in at it's eight week mark (Assume it's two weeks old right now) and get it dewormed as well. If the stomach is really bloated/hard and it's not because it's over eating it probably has an infestation of tapeworms. It could also have gotten it from mother cat as well while she was pregnant. Either or it's an easy fix and will help the longevity of the kitten overall.

Give it another week, two max and then try giving it a kitten formulated wet food and mix it with a bit of it's formula/milk and let it learn to eat that. Go about half and half on the canned food/milk. It may be messy for a few days but it'll get the hang of not standing in it's food while it eats.

8 years ago
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A one week old? Seems rough D:

  • What kind of milk is best for her (powder or regular)?
    The powder it depends what gives the milk (Vitamins and Minerals). When i raised my kitties i used regular milk, i always warmed the milk so they cam drink it.
    Also... the kitty eats alone? if not, you should buy a syringe and use it to feed it D: You need to be very patient when feeding it, sometimes they dont want to drink the milk and sometimes they will not want to stop drink it D:
    Good luck!
8 years ago
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Thank you. Got the powdered milk, the only way I could get her to eat was from the palm of my hand.

8 years ago
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Better use the syringe (without the needle), fill it with milk and then just let it suck the milk D:

8 years ago
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The youngest I had was 6 months old, but I'll try to help.
First of all:

a one week (?) old kitten

the vaccines will be made tomorrow.

O_O Ok, either you are really off with guessing her age, or the vet needs a serious talk. As far as I remember, the best time for the first vaccine is 7/8 weeks. And that's for a strong, healthy cat, not a furry ball of despair, that barely made it out alive.

Don't feed her cow milk, because lots of cats have lactose intolerance and she can get serious diarrhea after it and risking dehydration because of it, which can be highly dangerous for such little kittens.
If you can't find any special milk for cats, then just go with powdered baby milk.

Should I let her roam about the room or keep her close?

Let her explore her new surroundings, but keep an eye on her, so she doesn't hurt herself.

How do I make a litter box (they don't just sell them in supermarkets)?

Any small/medium of plastic/metal (or any other material, that won't soak up) box will temporarily do it. But maybe try looking around for cat litter? (sand, or stuff like that won't absorb the smell)

I need to go to work, is it ok to leave her in a one square meter box for 8 hours?

Something this small could use a bit more attention. Maybe ask some trusted neighbour/friend/family member to come by and look, if everything's ok and maybe even feed her?

Anyway, please keep us informed and good luck!

8 years ago
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Thanks a lot for the help ^.^ As I mentioned, I don't know much about little cats, so it appears she's older since her eyes are fully opened. There is a language barrier between me and the vet, now I realize the vaccines will be done later. He was talking about getting her something for parasites and vitamins to add to her milk.
I'll check on her regularly on my breaks since it's just a walk from home.

8 years ago
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I'm going to second everything Zoey said :)

8 years ago
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Don't feed her cow milk

This x100000000

8 years ago
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....furry ball of despair? o_O

8 years ago
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I'm on your black list :( may I know why?

8 years ago
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Trying to give away free games at some point.

8 years ago
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I'm not sure about one week old kitten, as they usually separated with their mothers at one month or so, but if she can eat by yourself than it shouldn't be much more trouble. And I am in no way an expert, I'm just saying from my own experience. So, here we go.

They sleep a lot, but that something you don't need to worry about - she can do it be herself ^_^ She can roam around, just make sure you closing doors if you don't want regularly searching for her.

There are litter boxes and litter filler (I think you need some kind of zoo shop, and not regular supermarket). If you low on money you can avoid litter filler and fill the box with layer of newspaper (or any soft cheap paper) tore on small pieces. First few days (or longer - it's always different) she will go whenever and wherever she wants, so you soak a few pieces of paper in it and place it in the litter box, so she'll remember it by smell (and not, it don't that stinky, they just sense it better, even little ones). If you notice that she wants to go (you'll start noticing how she crouches, and at this age she'll very soon after eating, so just wait) - you pick her up and put in litter box. Litter box should have constant place and not change position. You can change it later, for example if she now lives only in your room, so you can move it into bathroom later, when she'll adapt to it and will be walking around all house. When you clean litter box make sure to leave a few wet pieces, so the smell will stay. When she'll be more grown up you can even stop using any filler, since she'll already learn the right place to do it. Of course it's not always best option, since some cats can go very stinky. But my cats don't leave any bad smell if you clean it in time, so that possible too.

I'm not sure about milk, since I never tried powdered one. I fed with slightly warmed up regular milk. I'm also not sure about 8 hours, if she that young. I just don't remember how often they have to be fed... But make sure that litter box also in that box. And be ready that she will learn how to escape that box pretty quickly.

I think it's fine to let her outside (of course while you watching her), so she'll adapt to outside world from early age. I live in city apartment, so my beasts don't walk outside, and prior to that I lived in countryside, with different cats, that on the contrary lived mostly outside. So I don't know about regulating mixed routine.

And you should definitely read some book about that too, and not just something that google, or some blogger or kind fellow from forum will tell you. There a lot of nuances that can be easily missed, or things that we just haven't encountered. Or we could've easily did something wrong ourselves.

Also, she could go meowing, especially at night, since she'll be missing mommy, so just pet her, nicely talk to her and wait till she'll get used to new situation.

So good luck to both of you, warmest regards to the kitty, and keep us posted!

8 years ago*
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Thank you very much for the kind advice. I spent all day reading articles about how to raise orphaned kittens. I hope she'll be ok.

8 years ago
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If the vet prescribed vitamins and vaccines it's deffinetly not one week old(or the vet did not understand you well on the phone).I'v raised 15 kittens this year alone, this is just to give some experience background. If it was one week old it's eyes would still be closed, kittens open their eyes sometime between the 10th and 15th day of life, if it's eyes are open it's likely 2 weeks old, if it has teeth it's 3 weeks or older, if it's ears are "raised" it's 1 month or older. It should be easy to tell by these clues what it's approximate age is.

Now in case is actually is that young here's some "general" tips that should get you through it. You're gonna have to feed it, in the first 2 weeks of life they need to be fed (ideally) every 2 hours, then you add one extra hour for every week. Special formula would again be ideal but since you live in a third world country regular baby formula will do, it's considerably cheaper and easier to acquire, just make sure to boil the water welll and then cool it so it does not burn the kitten. If it's that young it can't pee on it's own, you will need to "stimulate" it like it's mother would, preferably a moist napkin or even toilet paper that you moisten a bit with warm water, be sure to do so before and after feeding it. Also make sure to keep it warm unless you live in a tropical country, put it in a box with some blankets and with a warm 500ml water bottle, it can even be a little hotter and you can put it in a sock, this will keep the kitten warm and act as a sort of surrogate so it does not feel alone, it will keep the kitten much calmer as well.

If you need any more advice feel free to ask here/add me on steam :)

8 years ago
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This is probably the best advice of everything I've read in this post.

I'd disregard everyone else and follow this advice (raised kittens myself).

8 years ago
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that thing is the best toy, house, or what ever thing you name, this is the solution, if you have 1 on these, your cat will be really happy for some reason.

when my brother got his +- a week or 2 old kitten, he was drinking powdered milk (warm) and to make it poop, you need to run its butt

View attached image.
8 years ago
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8 years ago*
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Can't help you much there but luckily there are enough users who can. :-)
I just can tell that this kitten is older than 1 week as it takes about 1 week until they begin to open their eyes.

Bump.

8 years ago*
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8 years ago
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Alot, also cats generally sleep alot
That's a misconception.
Cats sleep only a bit more than humans (though it may seem like more, due to how often they take short naps during the day), anything more than that usually means your cat is bored and understimulated.

I'm not familiar with special powder milks for cats, but anything specially formulated for cats is always a better option.

I agree with the small box part being a terrible idea :X

8 years ago
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8 years ago
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i arrived way too late to give original advice, so I'll just congratulate you on your new life companion. Take good care of it! :)

8 years ago
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>One week kitten
They're not really stable until 3 weeks.
Don't let them get over-stimulated until that point.

Edit: Judging by your photo, I'd guess 2.5 weeks.

>How much do they sleep?
They'll likely sleep while they're still in that initial baby phase, but once they get a few more weeks in, they'll be everywhere.
Not having a distinct mother to curl against may also see them acting out sooner.
They're basically going to be as demanding as any baby, for the first few months, though by virtue of being a cat, far less likely to get into severe trouble.

>Should I let her roam or keep her close?
Keep them close early on, if you're planning on forming a bond with her.
Kittens get very attached to whomever is near them their couple of months, and keeping her close forms nurturing bond.
Also, they're still young yet, and prone to not thinking things through [even in just a, don't run into walls sense]. Keep a good eye on them for the first two or three months.

>Litter Box
You can buy one, or repurpose a carboard box. Bought ones are easier to attach liners to. You can use tape and white kitchen trash bags as cheaper liners.
Keep the litter deep enough that they can fully, easily bury their waste, but not high enough that they can knock it out and make a mess.
The litter box will need to be deep enough to allow for that intersection.

Litter training can be instantaneous for smarter or more instinctual cats, but it can take a bit, as well. Be patient with them.
Never, ever physically punish a cat, or they'll get disobedient and resentful [and 'spraying' behaviors happen when cats are agitated, so punishing for those can lead to an endless cycle].
Hold their nose close to waste [but not touching it!] to tell them it isn't okay, then place them into the litter box immediately after. That'll form a strong association.

The Litter box should be changed every other day, typically, but a better rule is 'any time you clearly can see waste matter in the litter box, it probably needs to be changed'.
Not changing their litter box frequently can lead to them not using it, or getting agitated.

I'm really opposed to 'scooping' litter- it leaves most of the waste particles in the litter, and can lead to cats getting unhappy, or worse, sick.

Just replace the entire litter, it's cheap enough. :/

>Milk
Don't feed a cat milk directly. There's little in it that's good for them once they're adults, and most cats (something like 70%) are lactose intolerant. They love milk, sure, but it's not good for them.

However, when they're kittens, solid food is very hard for them.
To encourage eating it, SLIGHTLY warm kitten food in milk, forming a softer food alternative.
They'll also prefer milk over water in the early weeks, as well, and there's no harm in giving it to them, then.
Always make sure the milk is very slightly warmed, though if it's remotely hot, they won't drink it till it has cooled.

Powdered milk seems a terrible idea, at casual consideration. :/
Though if you can find anything formulated for cats in mind, it'll certainly be better than the alternative.
I can't say I've ever had to use special powders, so I wouldn't know anything here off-hand.

You CAN find lactose free milks, however, and those make excellent treats for cats, even the lactose intolerant ones, since milk and fish are the two near-universal cat loves. (You shouldn't give them nothing but fish, either, the mercury can build up and be toxic (to cats and humans both). Cat foods are often formulated to especially cater to cat nutrient demands, as well. If you feed a cat organic kibbles, they tend to have less health and hairball issues, as well- though don't hesitate to give them the occasional canned treat. Though, if possible, homemade 'canned cat food' is a far better option.).

> Should I let her go outside
YES. Cats left indoors get despondent, bored, depressed,etc.
It's very, very bad to leave them indoors.
If you start using a cat harness on them at around a month of age, they can even easily be taught to go on walks with you, same as a dog!
However, cats should always be monitored while outdoors, unless you're raising them as countryside cats.
If you're in any remotely urban area, always keep a close eye on them.

Be consistent. Cats intended for outdoor living need to be able to go outdoors regularly [put in a cat door] and have total freedom. Cats intended for mainly indoor living should still be taken out regularly, but with you watching them each time.
(Note, most cats love to play outdoors, and you can take soap bubbles and the like to play games with them while out there, even if you're not keen on walks.)

>Leave in box
If you have to while she's a kitten, sure, but cats hate feeling trapped, and will try their best to escape the box.
Cats are like any baby in their early weeks, and will almost always cry out while you're not there for a long period of time.
There's not really any negative to it, other than that, though a box that small means you'll come home to her sitting in her waste and with food spilled all over it. :/

>Licking Hand
Cats lick you for three reasons.
To comfort you, to show affection, or to entreat you to stop what you're doing [ie, it's often a precursor to them biting you if you're rubbing them wrong].
As a kitten, it'll mean two things: They're searching for food, or they're expressing childlike affection to a parent figure.

>Bed
Cats will sleep anywhere.
If she ends up viewing you as family, she'll want to sleep with you, usually in your bed or next to it.
You can just throw some clothes down in the meantime, they love making nests of those.
If they're still-reasonably-clean clothes you've worn for a bit, your smell on them can comfort and encourage them in early weeks.

>Her Age
If she's moving around easily and her eyes seem totally alert, she's closer to 3 weeks.
If she's prone to mewling and her eyes seem a bit sleepy, closer to 1 week.

Most important thing about cats, PERIOD:
1: BE PATIENT. Cats learn faster than humans, but they're still just children to start with. Making unreasonable demands can ruin how much the cat is willing to pay attention to you requests
2: BE CONSISTENT Never make excuses for rules- if they're not allowed on the counters, for example, never make exceptions. Cats learn by habit and association. Always use the same punishment, and never mix punishments. IE, blowing in a cat's ear could mean she made a mess. Spraying her with a water bottle means she's on something she shouldn't be.
The exact association of punishments is up to you, but always make sure they're consistant, make sure they're never physically painful (irritating them is fine- hugging can be surprisingly effective if they're misbehaving), and make sure you don't mix punishments.

If you do that, cats will almost never break rules.
3: Never punish for them obeying you Doesn't matter what they just did, if they came when you called, that's what's important. Grab them, hold them firm- but not tight- and stare them in the eyes- and let them know they're in trouble. But then set them down, give them a pat, and don't worry about the issue anymore.
Cats don't need massive displays of stern punishment, like dogs do, and when people try to use those, that's when cats start misbehaving and not listening to commands/training.
Cats instinctively attune to your moods and behaviors, and will recognize when they did things wrong from them. They're a lot more easily affected by a stern gesture or command than a dog is, and if you've raised them properly, won't disobey those.

Bonus:
Cats do speak, just as well as humans do, most humans never bother learning.
Cats can't easily understand words, like dogs can, so don't bother, there- they'll learn their name, and not much else.
Use different tones and pitches, use whistles and clicks and snapping of fingers, and try an be consistent in the pitch you use, and what you associate each behavior with (ie, snapping fingers could be associated only with treat-if-you-come/punishment-if-you-don't). Use body language when possible- tilting your head, shifting your shoulders, etc, cats pay a lot of attention to your body and presence.
Cats don't instinctively get things like pointing your finger, but they can be taught to recognize meaning in gestures with patience.

Of course, every cat, like every human, is different, so make sure to learn your cats particular patterns of behavior and cater to them!

Source:
Decades of learning from, and teaching cats.
Cats I live with can use the toilet, sit at the table, play fetch, tell me when their litter needs to be changed, asked to go on walks (which they can do unharnessed, obeying verbal commands), etc;
Cats I live with don't ever misbehave- never going on counters, never eating food that isn't theirs without asking first, etc.
Cats are smarter than most things in the world, most humans just don't bother trying to learn how to speak with them.
Of course, every species has a few more simple-minded members, but there, patience is a virtue :)

8 years ago*
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These are great recommendations, nothing more to add. Only one thing I disagree: I swear my cats (I own two of them) understand every single word I say and communicate and respomd with me in their own way. But you can tell the way they react that they pretty clearly understood what I just said to them.
Thing is: I live alone and am at home alot (used to work from home), so we really spend a lot of time together. I'm convinced that makes a difference.

8 years ago
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I'm disabled, so I'm rarely away from mine :X
Well, it's not impossible- some cats, for example, get super confused by things on TVs and PC screens, while smarter cats realize fast that the stuff on them isn't real.
Each cat, like each human, has their own unique intelligence and perceptions.
Of course, cats on the whole respond to tone and emphasis and pitch, so you may want to pay attention to how you present words, and test if they're responding more to a consistent presentation- but if your words are mostly evenly presented, then yes, you've got some gabby kitties :D
Either way, cats are incredibly intelligent, emotionally complex creatures; the way humans are allowed to act toward them is.. horrifying, at times.

8 years ago
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Yep, I wanted to imput my answer, but after reading that, I don't have much to add. I you follow those recommandation you should be ok. I hope your kitty will get better, she is super cute. Good luck:)

8 years ago
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So, for the going outside the house question, I have an answer (but it's complicated).

There are three kinds of pet cat philosophies. They can be summarized as follows.

  1. Indoor cat
  2. Mixed cat
  3. Outdoor cat

There are reasons to prefer each of these. An indoor cat is easier to "take care of" in that you know where (roughly) it will be, and is safe from most communicable diseases and other animals. If this cat is super precious to you, indoors is best. If you ever get the cat de-clawed you should make sure it stays inside almost all the time, because it won't be able to defend itself as well.

A mixed cat is a more complicated idea. If you raise a cat in your home, and let it in regularly, it will treat your home as a sort of base of operations. Whether it spends more time indoors or out depends on the cat, and you may not see the cat for long stretches of time. The benefits are that you only need to leave food and water available, and perhaps a litter box in the house if the can't can't freely come and go (and perhaps even if it can). Downsides are that the cat might not work with you on scheduling. There's a rather famous joke about a cat walking to a door, scratching at it as if wanting to go outside/inside, and then once a human opens the door it turns around and walks away. It's not just a joke, it happens. Also risk of cars and predators.

An outdoor cat... well, that doesn't seem like your plan anyway. At that point, with how independent cats are, it's not really even a pet.

8 years ago
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Please don't de-claw your cats, that's animal cruelty. If you have an indoor cat it's better to clip their nails then to completely remove them.

8 years ago
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Seconding that.

It's illegal in (most? all?) of Europe, even.
Which is reasonable, you're not just cutting out their claws (which they use for a lot of sensory input) but cutting out part of their bone, essentially removing a good chunk of their fingers.

Their ability to grasp things (and yes, cats do hold things in their hands regularly) will be severely compromised, and their ability to feel and respond with their hands will be far less able, as well.

I had a cat declawed once, due to vets encouraging me into it, and it was a tragic mistake.

Then again, sometimes survival breeds necessity, and if you can't get nail-caps, and claws are a threat to your cat's life where she lives, you may consider it.

Flip side, having claws generally keeps a cat alive better, so..

Really, don't declaw cats :X

8 years ago
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cats do hold things in their hands regularly

View attached image.
8 years ago
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The word choice was not incorrect :P
Had I stated paw, I would have indicated more the foot structure itself, rather than the digits on it, which was not my intent.
It's not an exclusive distinction, after all.

8 years ago
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yeah, nothing seems to be incorrect these days, but it is not normally classified that way and typically funny when someone does it. It could all get real technical but I really don't feel like getting into a debate on cat limbs lol. too late I guess :P

I was just making a joke :)

View attached image.
8 years ago
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Nah, it's just weird-seeming due to human ethnocentrism, and I don't support that :(
Hence my overly serious-seeming reply :P

Sorry it's not a joke I can appreciate :X

8 years ago
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Well, now I am genuinely curious as to what culture considers cats to have hands. I have never heard of this. We could basically take every open ended definition and make it mean anything we wanted I guess.

Down with the system!!

8 years ago
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Historical Definitions:
Hand: Old English, meaning 'to grasp or control'. Derives from a word meaning 'to handle'.
Paw: Old French, meaning 'hand', derived from a word meaning 'foot'. Applied meaning being 'hand that is like a foot'.

Originally, the two words weren't used in the same lexicon, and never were they contradictory in usage.

Modernization:
Hand:
1 (main): Any forelimb capable of grasping
Includes: catarrhine forelimbs (humans, some primates), cat's forelimbs, squirrel forelimbs, etc.

2: Any forelimb
Includes: Bird's talons, fish fins, etc.

3: Any limb capable of grasping
Includes: The rear limbs of some primates, of squirrels, of opossums, etc.

4: Any limb with an opposable thumb (ergo, capable of grasping).
This refers to an actual flesh thumb, thus though a cat does use their dewclaw in the same manner as an opposed thumb, their forelimbs do not count here.

Paw:
1 (main): Any clawed limb of a quadraped
Ergo, a declawed cat would suddenly no longer be considered to have paws by this definition alone!

2: Any large, clumsy, or footlike forelimb.
Includes: Human hands, if they're large or clumsy!

3: Any limb incapable of seperate motion of fingers, and lacking an opposable digit, and possessing claws.
Again, any declawed cat wouldn't count for the third- but even a clawed cat likely wouldn't count for the first two!

The main issue here though, isn't you having some confusion with the definitions, though-
It's that you think the two words are some how distinct and separate from one another:
Ergo, that someone can only have a paw OR a hand.

That is false.
As I noted, the two words had separate origins, and never were intended to not overlap.
Moreover, if you look through their definitions, nothing suggests they shouldn't overlap.

As such, when using the words where both apply, you use the one whose meaning you wish to emphasize.
You use paw when emphasizing a paw-like limb being used locomotion-
An you use hand when emphasizing a limb being used as a hand [ie, to handle, grasp, use dexterously].

A similar usage would be 'the squirrel handed me an acorn with their paws'.
You use the phrasing 'handed' because that signifies grasping and delivering via the grasping mechanism.

Hand itself can be used for pawed animals similarly.

Finally, cats specifically run a fine line between hands and paws, in which applies best to them.

Given that in the scenario I was presenting, I was refering to cats sitting on their hind legs and grasping balls and other toys in their hands to chew on them, throw them, bat at them, etc, the impression of 'grasping, holding, dexterous' was far more important than the impression of 'clumsy, footlike, non-dexterous'.

In linguistic terms, a word without a precise definition that differs from that of other words, is considered to be a useless word.
So no, we can't just apply any definition we want, without ruining the meaning of language itself.
So I agree with your sentiment that we can't just open-endedly apply words-

The issue here was one of misinterpretation of word meaning, however, not one of misuse of words.

8 years ago
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I guess we will agree to disagree, aside from the part where you agreed with my only point. I guess we agree on that as well :P

and sorry about making jokes of your English. It won't happen again.
I am sure we can find something more productive to do with our time

8 years ago*
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What happened to that declawed cat? Since you said 'tragic'.

8 years ago
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I would never recommend it for outdoor cats. Indoor cats have very few natural threats, though the procedure... my cat hid under a bed for three days. Yeah. Not the most pleasant experience. Still, my cat was very aggressive because of past abuse and used her claws to attack people, so that was also a factor; it was getting to the point where it was hard to take care of her because she was too aggressive, and declawing allowed us to be friendly without getting shredded.

8 years ago
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I'm sorry, I still think that's cruel. You took away from her the only ways of defense she had. She will never be able to climb anything anymore or do typical things cats do when they sharpen their claws, which I find an essential part of a cat's life. Also should she ever be confronted with a dog or anything else threatening her she will be totally helpless. All because some humans weren't able to find the right way to treat her.
Not accusing you or anything, I'm just finding it really sad what some animals have to go through for the comfort of humans. Declawing is like amputating the hands of a scared kid ;__;

8 years ago
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I mean, she's an indoor cat who doesn't have anything to fear. We did try to treat her first, with a scratching post and behavioral training, but because of how flightly she was she just always started scratching people and running away and refused to use the post. Mind you, I didn't make the decisions, my parents did. However, though I'm sure it was traumatic (she hid for three days, so it can't have been fun), it allowed her to be integrated into our family much better and she started behaving much better after a while because we were able to be more social with her without getting scratched. It wasn't a first choice, and it was an extreme situation, but ultimately I think in this case it was beneficial.

8 years ago
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It can be beneficial, it can even be the most favorable course, but that still doesn't make it inherently right- especially since nail caps DO exist, so the whole procedure seems wholly unnecessary.

There are a lot of conveniences that come from cutting off a cat's front digits, for humans, but that doesn't make it in any sense make it a morally good action to take.

8 years ago
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I totally agree. My cat was only declawed because we tried other methods of taking care of her claw issues and she managed to defeat them all, and it was making her unbearable (she didn't have any other real chance of being adopted, since she had past trauma and was not a "friendly" cat) so as a last resort we had her declawed. It's not a decision to be taken lightly, and should only be done when there are no other options.

8 years ago
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But you're ALREADY whitelisted :(

8 years ago
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Almost everything that I could tell you had been already said, a quick tip that I discovered jusr recentrly is that don't put the water cup and the food cup one near the other, usually the cats hate it, place one 1 o 2 meters away from the other.

8 years ago
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I can only give a little advice. For the bed just go with a small cardboard box cats love them, my sure does, also put it somewhere warm, but since this is a little kitten I don't know how warm. While it is still young try to keep it close to you and play with it or just pet it, so that it bonds to you. Currently it is still young but once it gets older it will have lots of energy, so you will have to play with it or face the claws on furniture an curtains.
One last thing try to get it used to water, if it can be done.

8 years ago
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+1 Cats get crazy with cardboard box and plastic bags D:

8 years ago
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so cutee! :3

8 years ago
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You've scared me there for a moment.
This kitten is approximately one month old, so you can manage even if it's your first kitten.
Go for powdered milk (other milk gives them bad diarrhea and that can be lethal). If she doesn't drink from a cup yet, feed her with a syringe every couple of hours, but be careful not to overfeed her.
If she doesn't poop, soak a piece of cloth in warm (but not hot) water and gently massage her butt, and hope this helps. (Not pooping can be a serious problem)
If you think it's cold, wrap a cloth around a bottle filed with hot water and put it in her bed. If she gets too hot, she will get away from it, and if she is cold, she will snuggle in it. This trick is used with newborn kittens, because they can't shiver when they feel cold, but don't worry, yours isn't that young.
That's all that comes to my mind right now, ask if you have questions. Good luck.

8 years ago
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I'm really clueless when it comes to kittens, sorry :(
But I wish the two of you all the best, and that the little one stays healthy ♥

8 years ago
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Closed 8 years ago by Quisty.