I thought it's just a Win10 thing.
That's bad.
I wanted to boot into that HD using a virtual machine.
Might give it a try eventually.
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You will likely have trouble booting your current OS install on another machine due to driver issues. You will need to reinstall Windows and all your programs. You shouldn't lose any data as long as you don't format the drive, but to be safe it would be smart to install Windows on another HDD. Once Windows is working, then you can hook up your old drive and pull the data from it.
Before you do that though, have you actually tried removing the CMOS battery? It was previously suggested but I didn't see you confirm you tried it. My PSU exploded recently and after replacing it my computer still wouldn't even POST with all the RAM removed, until I removed the battery and tried to start the computer and then it started beeping at me. Put the battery back in, reinstalled the memory, and everything worked.
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I took out the battery and put it on again, but I didn't boot without the battery, if relevant I could try again. I might have another battery somewhere and could try that as well. But I don't have the feeling that's a battery issue, because it crashed while it was running.
I might have a CPU for the same socket hanging around. I never tried that kind of manipulation, but I could give it a try.
The real problem is that I refloated that pc many times in the past dedicating much time and I also dedicated time to this repair to no result, and here's so hot, I'm not really sure I want to spend more time to fix it, probably it's better to spend money on a new machine.
About booting, the driver issues don't bother me if they permit me a one time access to deactivate some licenses. The data I know it's safe.
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While these steps may be needlessly excessive, I would recommend unplugging the power to the computer, removing the battery, and then attempting to turn it on (while the power cable is still unplugged) to ensure all stored charge is gone. Then with the battery still out, plug in the power and turn the computer on. If at this point the BIOS still doesn't POST and start beeping at you to complain about the missing battery, I would say your motherboard is dead.
As for the driver issue, it is far more severe than your typical driver installation within Windows. What will happen is the computer will start to boot normally, and after the Windows splash screen it will suddenly reboot, and continue in a boot loop. If you use the startup option to disable automatic restart on system failure, you will see that it is experiencing a BSOD because the drivers are just too different. This post describes the exact issue and does provide some alternative solutions.
If those options don't work for you and you have software you need to deactivate, then you should install Windows to a new HDD, and then try to load the old drive in a VM.
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I have an update.
I booted without cmos battery, no improvement.
I found another cmos battery and used it, no improvement.
Meanwhile I hooked to a old laptop that I had hanging around the screen and the keyboard, just to have a backup client, aaand, the screen that yesterday worked now is dead too. It was of the same age of the pc or slightly older.
I take this as a sign. I won't do any more tries. I'll salvage the hds, the ram, the gpu and let all the rest f#&k off.
And as Jezza says, on this terrible disappointment, thanks all for the help anyway and see you again!
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A broken place that appeals to the sixth sense?
- Power supply
- CPU
Replace the power supply and pray to God.
I will do so if it gets broken if I can not get a backup.
Realistically, you will buy a new computer and try to squeeze out the data.
2007
- If the BIOS data retention is "deteriorated and burned out button cell", replacing it may cause it to work as if nothing happened.
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Does your computer still make a beep sound when you are booting up or are trying to access the boot menue (usually one of the F keys or del)? Maybe you are just not getting a picture.
Given that your computer is already that old, you can try to overheat the mainboard in the oven to fix some broken connections: this actually works
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Around 1000€ including screen, not assembling myself the whole thing, but I could put ram and gpu in; spain
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a Ryzen 5 3600 togheter with a cheap B450 board with Bios Flashback would be a good choice
but you need to know how Bios Flashback works, should i give you a complete build?
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+1 on this advice, because I did exactly that few days back.
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yes please!
i was proposed in some site a build with ryzen 5 and b450.
but i have no hint of what bios flashback is.
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Bios flashback is basically just a system that lets you flash the bios on a motherboard that isn't booting (so if something goes wrong you have one extra level of assurance it can be fixed).
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Shopping advice
https://de.pcpartpicker.com/list/fcdKV6 + RTX 2070
It's my rig. I can play everything on 60 fps in 2k.
New upcoming Ryzen CPUs are still on AM4 socket so you will be able to upgrade.
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Hmm, as mentioned earlier by another poster you can change the battery on the motherboard. One of the issues I encountered with an old PC which I am still using, GTX220 graphics, 2GB RAM was one of the capsule on the motherboard blew. Mainly its MB issues that I had encountered and the last time I sent it to repair it cost me around $100 still cheaper than a new one. I use it for browsing or watching stream while gaming on a new PC I gotten this yr.
If you want a VR ready set, I recommend 1070 graphics and above. You can work with below that but that is just underlining what the VR headset can do. I waited for yrs before this upgrade to RTX 2070 though initially I wanted 1070TI but was phased out. This system should last me 5yrs at least imo. Cheers~
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I like CyberPower; you get to pick most of the included parts, but they build it for you.
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they charge abit of a premium on each part in my opinion
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hallo, i checked that site but it's uk based and gives prices in pounds. probably they bill a plus for a international shipment.
i'll try to find a spanish based business.
thanks!
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whats your budget?
something like this would last quite awhile assuming your using existing storage/case/windows
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cJy8WD
can skimp abit on the psu if u dont want fully modular
edit: ah just realized your in spain. this is in USD/US.. well i tried :) though i would definitely recommend building it yourself! its not hard to do at all
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Unironically, I've found nice information in reddit, specifically in the subreddit "buildapc". There are another more aimed to "do it for me", but I think that one has more info. The ones related to "master race" are memes and circlejerk, pretty stupid.
EDIT: At the end, is going to depend on your budget and what you plan to do with the computer.
EDITO2: La mayoría de mis piezas las compré en amazon. Al final procuré evitar pccomponentes salvo para oferticas.
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Que passa con pc componentes? Que tal está appinformatica? Mi idea era comprar un pc ya hecho, minimizando la Intervención por mi parte. Esta tarde he ido a la fnac pero no me ha gustado nada de lo que he visto.
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APPinformática es una franquicia, así que depende de la tienda a la que vayas te puedes encontrar una cosa u otra. Yo, en la tienda de mi pueblo, tuve experiencias maravillosas con uno de los de la tienda... Luego lo tuvo que dejar y el que vino después me timó.
Desde entonces nunca más, además tiene componentes muy de 'oficina' a precio 'gaming'. No la recomiendo para nada.
De PCcomponentes he leído un poco de todo, yo la verdad es que 0 quejas. Lo que he leído ultimamente es que ya no son "lo que eran" y que, al creerse el "top" del mercado español tienen precios mucho más altos de lo que solían tener.
En amazon también he visto algún "prebuilt" a buen precio, pero estoy muy desconectado del mundillo actual. Se que han salido ryzen nuevos y parece que son buenos.
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Si no te importa compara a traves de internet yo te recomendaría que le echaras un ojo a la web de coolmod.
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Hmm
As a Monitor i would suggest buying something like HP 25-27 inches or Benq. Because all of those realy expesive monitors have just some OC options and few gaming specs (RGB lighting and etc.) 160-200$
As for interior of your PC i would recommend you:
CPU I7-6700 (k or no is your choise difference in 20$) 270$
CPU cooler Be quiet Pure Rock Slim or Pure Rock (50$).
GPU GTX 1070 400$ ( because its a gteat choise for now and it will be relevant for at least 5 years more.) If its to much for you you can pick up GTX 1060 6 GB (230$). Any choise will be great but 1060 will be less powerfull and wont be great in 4 or more years in gaming.
Motherboard (any H370 or B360 B370 motherboard will be great. Best choise as for me would be nice to pick up smth like ASUS or Gigabyte) 100-120$( could be even 80$)
RAM Corsair Vengence 2133 or any other with 2133 frequency 74$
So for exterior of your PC.
If you need silent PC you can take Be quiet Silent base 600. Its quiet as hell and comes with 2 silent fans and with sound insulation all over it. 130$
So in the end you will have 200+270+50+400+120+74+130=1244$ (1140 €) on max prices. But if you will buy cheaper motherboard (80$ for example.) And cheaper monitor (Benq 27 inches have price 120-130$). And you can change PC case for any cheaper corsair or Be quiet case than you will get price lower that 1000€.
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Is there any site where I can select components and they send me the fully assembled machine in spain?
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Hmm. Idk because i am not from spain. Probably there are some guys that are building PC from components. But with their work it will be even more expensive(
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Monitor is wasted, better buy a TV already, 32", should get that cheap already. Dont know how it is in Spain, but i guess also cheap ones there. That gets everywhere cheaper and have more from it.
I dont know why most want just a Monitor, TV can more, is bigger for that Price too. ^^
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In post its stated Monitor so i looked for monitor) Sure you can buy TV but there can be troubles with nice picture. And good big screen also have a big price)
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Well for that Price you mentioned can get that Size. So like i said, that Price you pay for a small Monitor, can get a bigger TV for sure. Sure Prices changes in every Country, but mostly still get all cheaper cause newer Stuff coming to the Market. And with nice Picture, that what we have looking so good, no Problems at all. Saw also worser, but i guess also depends on the People and if you look good, can get still good one for a good Price.
But it lays on him and his Budget, only can give him Guide Tips what he could check out. If he is taking it, its his decision. ^^
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Edit: what do I have to take in account when buying a new pc to warrant I can boot into my old win7 HD? Some limitation regarding Intel cpus if I don't mistake..
You don't have to worry about CPUs, you have to worry about motherboards. Don't buy a Z390 motherboard if you want to be able to use USB, because there are no working drivers for it for Windows 7. I made that mistake, I booted into my old Windows 7 install just fine except it was slightly useless without keyboard and mouse working.
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This is the 1k gaming monster that I bought about 3 months ago: benchmark
AMD Ryzen 5 2600 6x 3.40GHz So.AM4 BOX € 149,90
MSI B450 Gaming Pro Carbon AC AMD B450 So.AM4 Dual Channel DDR4 ATX Retail € 127,17
be quiet! Silent Base 801, silent Midi Tower without PSU black/orange € 110,64
32GB G.Skill Aegis DDR4-3000 DIMM CL16 Dual Kit € 144,90
750 Watt Corsair HX Series HX750M Modular 80+ Platinum € 108,92
1000GB SanDisk Ultra 3D 2.5" (6.4cm) SATA 6Gb/s 3D-NAND TLC (SDSSDH3-1T00-G25) € 116,92
8GB Asus Radeon RX Vega 56 AREZ Strix OC Aktiv PCIe 3.0 x16 (Retail) € 296,92
With the current prices you should be able to afford a monitor as well, especially if you go for 16GB RAM instead of 32 (this was just me being angry about my old computer running out of memory all the time).
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Is there any site where I can select components and they send me the fully assembled machine in spain?
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I am not from Spain, so no idea, but installing them yourself is really easy and you even own an old device to practive with if you are having any doubts.
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Possible builds at coolmod.com, w/o win10 key, which i guess can be found for cheap elsewhere.
I don't need hd and wifi, i'd prefer internal dvd but it's not available in all cases.
I selected a silent case w/o transparent sides (no need fancy lights).
The cooler and psu are cheap and random.
Any comment? (remember that no heavy gaming is needed)
CoolPC Basic IV - i5 8500 / 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
CPU: Intel i7 8700 4.6Ghz 6-Core con HT
T. Gráfica: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 GAMING X 4GB GDDR5
RAM: 16Gb (1x16Gb) Corsair Vengance LPX 2666Mhz CL16
Placa Base: ASUS TUF B360M-E GAMING
Disipador: Antec A40 Pro 12Cm LED Azul
Disco SSD: SSD Crucial BX500 480Gb 540Mb-s
Disco HDD: No (Quitar disco duro)
WiFi: Ninguno
Sistema Operativo: Ver. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Cableado: Gestión de cableado Premium
Grabadora: ASUS DRW-24F1MT DVD 24X
Extras: Ninguno
Caja: Talius Denver
741,61€
CoolPC Gamer IV - R5 2600 / GeForce® GTX 1650 4Gb / 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.9Ghz 6-Core
T. Gráfica: KFA2 GeForce RTX 2060 6GB GDDR6
RAM: 16Gb (2x8Gb) Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3200Mhz CL16
Placa Base: ASUS PRIME B450M-K
Disipador: Antec A30 9Cm LED Azul
F. Alimentación: Corsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSD: SSD Crucial BX500 480Gb 540Mb-s
Disco HDD: No (Quitar disco duro)
WiFi: Ninguno
Sistema Operativo: Ver. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Iluminación: Ninguna
Cableado: Gestión de cableado Premium
Ventilación: Añadir más
Grabadora: No (añadir opciones)
Extras: Ninguno
Caja: Antec P110 Silent
857,35€
CoolPC Basic VII - i7 8700 / 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
CPU: Intel i7 8700 4.6Ghz 6-Core con HT
T. Gráfica: MSI GeForce GTX 1650 GAMING X 4GB GDDR5
RAM: 16Gb (1x16Gb) Corsair Vengance LPX 2666Mhz CL16
Placa Base: ASUS TUF B360M-E GAMING
Disipador: Antec A30 9Cm LED Azul
F. Alimentación: Corsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSD: SSD Crucial BX500 480Gb 540Mb-s
Disco HDD: No (Quitar disco duro)
WiFi: Ninguno
Sistema Operativo: Ver. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Cableado: Gestión de cableado Premium
Grabadora: No (añadir opciones)
Extras: Ninguno
Caja: Antec P110 Silent
865,30€
CoolPC Enhanced - i5 9400F / GeForce® GTX 1650 4Gb / 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
CPU: Intel i5 9400F 4.1Ghz 6-Core
T. Gráfica: KFA2 GeForce RTX 2060 6GB GDDR6
RAM: 16Gb (1x16Gb) Corsair Vengance LPX 2666Mhz CL16
Placa Base: ASUS TUF B360M-E GAMING
Disipador: Antec A30 9Cm LED Azul
F. Alimentación: Corsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSD: SSD Crucial BX500 480Gb 540Mb-s
Disco HDD: No (Quitar disco duro)
WiFi: Ninguno
Sistema Operativo: Ver. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Iluminación: Ninguna
Cableado: Gestión de cableado Premium
Ventilación: Añadir más
Grabadora: No (añadir opciones)
Extras: Ninguno
Caja: Antec P110 Silent
850,00€
CoolPC Gamer II - R5 2600 / Radeon RX 580 8Gb / 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
Montaje: Envío en 2/4 días
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.9Ghz 6-Core
T. Gráfica: ASUS Radeon RX 580 8GB GDDR5 Bulk 1xDVI
RAM: 16Gb (1x16Gb) Corsair Vengance LPX 2666Mhz CL16
Placa Base: Gigabyte B450M DS3H
Disipador: Antec A40 Pro 12Cm LED Azul
F. Alimentación: Corsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSD: SSD Crucial BX500 480Gb 540Mb-s
Disco HDD: No (Quitar disco duro)
WiFi: Ninguno
Sistema Operativo: Ver. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Iluminación: Ninguna
Cableado: Gestión de cableado Premium
Ventilación: Añadir más
Grabadora: No (añadir opciones)
Extras: Ninguno
Caja: Antec P110 Silent
677,36 €
CoolPC Gamer III - R5 3600 / Radeon RX 580 8Gb / 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
Montaje: Envío en 2/4 días
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 3600 4.2Ghz 6-Core
T. Gráfica: ASUS Radeon RX 580 8GB GDDR5 Bulk 1xDVI
RAM: 16Gb (1x16Gb) Corsair Vengance LPX 2666Mhz CL16
Placa Base: MSI B450 TOMAHAWK
Disipador: Antec A40 Pro 12Cm LED Azul
F. Alimentación: Corsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSD: SSD Crucial BX500 480Gb 540Mb-s
Disco HDD: No (Quitar disco duro)
WiFi: Ninguno
Sistema Operativo: Ver. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Iluminación: Ninguna
Cableado: Gestión de cableado Premium
Ventilación: Añadir más
Grabadora: No (añadir opciones)
Extras: Ninguno
Caja: Antec P110 Silent
794,99 €
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time proof inside the expected usage
How much time? Also, why do you care about 'time proof' if all you're interested in is office apps, web browsing and light gaming?
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My previous pc was not OK even for light tasks lately, let alone gaming, so I want something that will do the same for let's say 10 years, considering and update of gpu and an addition of ram down the line, in let's say 5 years.
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I don't know what your PC's specs were, but 10 years for a PC is a little long.
Still, technological advancement has slowed down somewhat, so maybe that could work out, except for gaming. For office tasks, I think that most old PCs suffered just from the lack of an SSD. Sticking one in an old PC generally made it a lot more usable.
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Hey there.
I am a lil bit confused about the setups you posted. Either I did get them wrong or something is simply a lil bit of.
anyways
CoolPC Gamer II - R5 2600 / Radeon RX 580 8Gb / 8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
Montaje: Envío en 2/4 días
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.9Ghz 6-Core
T. Gráfica: ASUS Radeon RX 580 8GB GDDR5 Bulk 1xDVI
RAM: 16Gb (1x16Gb) Corsair Vengance LPX 2666Mhz CL16
Placa Base: Gigabyte B450M DS3H
Disipador: Antec A40 Pro 12Cm LED Azul
F. Alimentación: Corsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSD: SSD Crucial BX500 480Gb 540Mb-s
Disco HDD: No (Quitar disco duro)
WiFi: Ninguno
Sistema Operativo: Ver. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Iluminación: Ninguna
Cableado: Gestión de cableado Premium
Ventilación: Añadir más
Grabadora: No (añadir opciones)
Extras: Ninguno
Caja: Antec P110 Silent
677,36 €
This one would be a decent, at least from what you have been requesting. It would be able to play almost any modern game at 1080p on high Settings between 60 and 100fps.
If there is a possibility to increase the Ram, I would highly recommend you increasing it to 2x8 GB = 16 GB in total to be on the save side. AM4 boards do favor Dual Slot Ram over anything else and should be used in this configuration. A single Ram stick will lower the Ram transfer rate tremendously, so don't get fooled there. You would be able upgrade the Ram later on, if needed, but there is no guaranty that you will achieve 3200Mhz using 4 ram sticks, so better get 2x8gb = 16gb now.
Sim Racing does not require that much performance to begin with, you you might even play this on higher resolution and still obtain more fps than needed. Usually even this build already is overkill for basic office work, but since you plan on light gaming as well, I would go for build similar like this, just to be on the save side.
I am not sure if you are into the different computer parts enough to tell the differences and up and downsides between those different offers apart . If so feel free to ask.
Setup should be like this:
R5 2600 / Radeon RX 580 8Gb / 2x8GB DDR4 3200Mhz / SSD 240Gb + 1Tb HDD
If you want to keep an eye on the electrify bill as well, I personally rather would get a Nvidia gtx 1660 ti Card to reduce the power consumption of that part. The Cpu as well as the Mainboard are just fine.
RX 580 8gb:
pro:
- about 100€ cheaper than the 1660 TI
- 8gb of Video Memory
- Free Sync Monitors are way cheaper
con:
- Higher power consumption of 185W
- Depending on the current configuration, the overall power draw of the GPU can increase exponentially, if you are using a dual or multi monitor setups
GTX 1660 TI
Pro:
- Lower Watt consumption of 120W
- about 20-30% faster than the the RX 580 8gb (not in every game though, but generally it is performing better)
- well balanced dual or multi monitor support
- there are a few freesync monitors that do support gsync but only via display port
Con:
- Lower Video Memory of 6GB
- about 100€ more expensive over the RX 580 8gb
- Gsync monitor can be way more expensive than a similar one using freesync
If you don't plan on dual monitor setup, I would rather suggest staying with the rx 580 8gb and get a decent freesync monitor using IPS panel technology. This way you achieve a very good performance result for your needs, that will last you for a while even in modern titles ( even though you probably don't play it, but this will run Assassins Creed Odyssey between 60 and 70 FPS on High settings) while having a crystal clear image quality to work with thx to the IPS Panel and no screen tearing due the freesync technology. Peopel might get angry for saying this, but you don't really need a 1ms responding 144hz /240 hz Monitor for what you are going to do with this pc. If a 144HZ fits in the budget and has an IPS Panel sure go for it, the more the better, you don't need to be able to achieve those high frame rates to have a great gaming experience in Sim racing, but it sure is a nice thing to have
For a basic understanding in which performance area you will be and what might be an alternative option: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KRLjKr939RM
You will also find benchmarks and more comparison videos for this kind of build there, to see what you can expect out of this.
I hope I could be of help,
have a good one.
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thanks a lot for the lond, detailed and specific answer.
i'm not very into the different firms and types and cross compatibilities, this is one of the reasons why i look for a prebulit pc.
i could definitely mount one, but i don't have the time / will / knowledge to sort out the possible fine tuning, so i prefer to pay in order to have that ironed out of the box and under warranty.
my idea of one 16gb stick was in order to permit to put a 2nd one in a later time, guessing that the mobo has only 2 slots (to be sincere i didn't even check).
if there are 4 slots, i might go 2x8gb, and still be able to update using the free slots.
i have no special knowledge of mobos, i'll have to check that bit.
about the gpu, i'm aware that the rx 580 is old and power hungry, but i guess it will have some kind of eco mode that will keep the power down when i'm preparing a spreadsheet or surfing the web, and kick in when 3d stuff has to be done.
the other one you propose is more power friendly, but also more expensive.
if i wanted a really power frendly cart, i'd look for a 75w card like the 1650, which is much cheaper and still able to do some light gaming.
i don't play that much these days, and i could really choose to go cheap.
but i don't see the case for the 1660 ti anyway.
multimonitor, while is certainly interesting in sim racing, would taking me on a expensive path that i don't want to.
i'll stay single monitor, and maybe if i get a nice price, look for a curved/very wide one.
i have no idea if the stuff i chose need special attention to psu and cooler. as far as you know the ones i selected would be enough to supply and cool my build?
i'll check your video later. thanks again!!
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ok now for the second try, first answer was above 10k limit and got lost in the process, so I need to do it over again. -.-
I am not really sure, what you have been playing with so far and what your actual requirements are. You can get a decent entry level PC for less than what you have selected.
Usually I would not suggest those with the upcoming release of the PS5 using an 8/16 CPU, but I wanted to least offer this as an idea. Since you stated you primarily do office work and gaming is the secondary part and sim racing the usually thing you do play I thought of 2400g with integrated vega 11 graphics. I would not call this an entry gaming system, I usually don't even consider anything below 8/16 a future proof system for gaming, but you are not looking for this anyway.
To shorten this, you can expect most new titles to run at 1080p at low and medium setting in rare cases. This is rather a 720p/900p System Igpu wise, but this is an awesome office / media and older game system. From it's basic cpu power it is close to 4670/4690 System but got
8 threads. Sim racing is a different optimization type and if this is what you are playing, you might actually not need any dedicated Graphics card at the moment. You could add one though any time.
To make it more clear take a look at this benchmark attempt to show the 2400g using the igpu vs the rx 580 8gb within the same system.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fDBrO1IzbiY
The point I want to make here is, that depending on your personal needs, games, playstyle and usage your actual need might differ from what a gamer would want to go with.
If you plan on adding a dedicated graphics to this CPU from the start, don't get it. Get either a 2600 or rather 2700. This will last you way longer. But at least give it a good thought. I have no idea how your old system was running, what you are used to and what you would consider running good enough for yourself.
CPUAMD Ryzen 5 2400G 3.9GHz 4-Core con gráficos RADEON VEGA Integrados
T. GráficaRadeon VEGA Series (integrada en CPU)
RAM16Gb (2x8Gb) Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3200Mhz CL16
Placa BaseMSI B450M MORTAR
DisipadorInbox
F. Alimentación500W Silent 85+ 12Cm
Disco SSDSSD Kingston A400 240Gb 500Mb-s
Disco HDDSeagate Barracuda 1Tb SATA3 64Mb 7200RPM
WiFiNinguno
Sistema OperativoVer. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
GrabadoraNo (quitar grabadora)
ExtrasNinguno
450,24 €
I am using the b450 Mortar MB for a good reason, If you need or want to upgrade at some point, this is capable of running up to the current R9 3950X a 16 core and 32, if you don't overclock it. The Vcore is able to handle those, but I am not sure about the 4th gen, probably not going to work in this. But you can upgrade this any time and might even get a good deal on a used one in a few years. You got plenty of money left to spend on a decent Monitor. You do have a display port on there going up to 4k 60hz. Not for gaming, but for normal office work.
Stepping up the one we had b4, just exchanged some parts. You really want to have 16gb in there, sorry but there is no way around.
I changed the Mainboard here as well, for the same reason as above and you really don't want to have an all usb 2.0 mainboad. The support for onboard graphics doesn't matter you will need a dedicated anyway, yet upgrade ability.
CPUAMD Ryzen 5 2600 3.9Ghz 6-Core
T. GráficaASUS Radeon RX 580 8GB GDDR5 Bulk 1xDVI
RAM16Gb (2x8Gb) Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3200Mhz CL16
Placa BaseMSI B450M MORTAR
DisipadorInbox
F. AlimentaciónCorsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSD SSD Kingston A400 240Gb 500Mb-s
Disco HDD Seagate Barracuda 1Tb SATA3 64Mb 7200RPM
WiFi Ninguno
Sistema OperativoVer. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
Iluminación Ninguna
CableadoGestión de cableado Premium
VentilaciónAñadir más
GrabadoraNo (añadir opciones)
ExtrasNinguno
676,10 €
If you plan on spending that much on a build, go for the next, if this still manages to get you a usable monitor
CPUAMD Ryzen 7 2700 4.1Ghz 8-Core
T. GráficaASUS Radeon RX 580 8GB GDDR5 Bulk 1xDVI
RAM16Gb (2x8Gb) Crucial Ballistix Sport LT 3200Mhz CL16
Placa BaseMSI B450M MORTAR
DisipadorInbox
F. AlimentaciónCorsair VS 650W 80+ Bronze
Disco SSDSSD Kingston A400 240Gb 500Mb-s
Disco HDDSeagate Barracuda 1Tb SATA3 64Mb 7200RPM
WiFiNinguno
Sistema OperativoVer. Evaluación Windows 10 64bit (Sin clave)
IluminaciónNinguna
CableadoGestión de cableado Premium
VentilaciónAñadir más
GrabadoraNo (añadir opciones)
ExtrasNinguno
747,09 €
This is 8 true cores and 16 threads. In terms of cpu this will last you the longest. It is not the fastest and would not be the first choice for pure gaming, but this is still a 65W Cpu. It might sound a bit overkill, but if you do want a pc that will last you for quite a while, you should go with 8/16
Still 252,91€ left for a monitor.
You could save 10€ using the 2666 Balistics instead, barley a noticeable difference in real world, but depending on what you do, it might improve your work/gaming a lil bit. If those 10€ are missing for a better Monitor, get the better Monitor instead.
Edit: I did not forget about your DVD Drive, but since you said you could assemble a PC, I am not wasting 45€ on a dvd drive you can order for 10-15€ on Amazon.
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very long answer man, thanks for your time (and sorry that shit happened)!!
from the builds that you proposed, and it looks like you made them in the same site i used, so pricing is consistent (thanks for that), the ones that looks more interesting to me is the last one.
i like the idea to bump up the cpu, for the extra year of usage i can get from it. what i want then is that it doesn't blow up before time.
i see you stripped out the cooler. isn't it needed? or the cpu comes with one that will do the job? i don't want the leds and all that fancy stuff, but some extra cooling could be good for improving the cpu lifespan.
the hd will not be bought, i have a good one that i want and need to use, in fact i have to find a way to boot it (win7) from the new system, so win7 compatibility is needed for all the components.
the ssd will be bumped up to half a tera.
i have no idea about the logic board, it's a component i really don't control.
what i see is that it offers 4 ram slots, so i can put in a couple 8gb more in the future, so that's ok. i guess they would have to be identical to the ones i buy now, if not then bla bla bla performance sink bla bla ;P
you proposed the quicker ram modules, if the difference in price es small, it's something i can do, but i feel like it won't be really noticeable. what i prefer is to get modules i will be easily able to match for ram addition in the future, specs and vendor wise.
the rest of specs of the mobo sound like cantonese to me, what i get is that it marries me with amd cpus (not a problem), has some led control (that i hope can be switched off, for lord's sake), has very few expansion slots (i can live with that), still has a ps2 port (a plus, i can salvage my old keyboard!!), has a display port besides the hdmi (nice to have), also the multichannel analog audio is really nice to have. all that said, i have no idea if it's standard in today's mobos, but are nice things to have.
the gpu. i'm not really sure there. i've been watching videos and i'm even considering a rx570, if i still find one. it might be ok for what i need and be cheaper on the bill. i might eeeven stay with my present hd7750 for a while, if the proposed cpu has no integrated graphics (not sure about that). also i think that amd could sum the cores from the integrated gpu and the dedicated one to milk an extra flop, but i'm nor really sure that it would apply for me at all.
about the case, i will need to find one that is silent, completely opaque and has a 5,25 bay for the dvd player (i can salvage it from my present pc). i'll look for a case like that, in the site i'm using they propose the antec p101 that looks like that. i have an external dvd, but it's a hassle.
the alternative would be to step down to the 1st proposal, lower cpu and lower gpu, saving 300€. it would make sense if after all i decide that the gaming is more or less over (in reality i play less and less, and the one and only game i play with some continuity is gt sport on ps4), since that is more than capable to do the office work. I really have to think about it.
but at the moment i prefer to be able to fire up a game every now and then, and compromised solutions are ... compromised.
(lately i've been using nvidia now to play a bit from my laptop and basicly in a word it's frustrating)
¡¡so thanks a lot for all the advice, i'll think about this all taking in account what you said!!
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And now for the Idea with the very wide Monitor.
You can go for that, but I am not sure if this will be helpful in gaming. You said there would be no reason to consider the 1660ti... if you wanna go wide screen and game on it, you will need more than a RX 580 on the long run. You will be able to run games on this, but not as good as you might think.
I am giving you a example based on a bad optimized and therefor demanding game.
Assassins Creed Odyssey
will run at about 60-70 FPS on high details at 1920x1080. This is what you get maximum.
If you wanna go wider like 2560x1080 21:9 you will suffer.
Based on the results:
1920 x 1080 one frame 2.073.600 pixel to calculated.
60 Frames / 60hz = 2.073.600 x 60 = 124.416.000 Pixels, that your card can/has to calculate at that resolution and can handle
now look at
2560 x 1080 one frame 2.764.800 Pixel
124.416.000 / 2.764.800 = 45
So you can expect around 45 frames simply going to a slightly higher resolution, where you would get 60 on the normal one.
I am simply warning you about this, because you might bottleneck your new GPU straight away, if you pick the wrong monitor resolution to game with. Yes, you can still reduce the quality and resolution, but didn't you just buy a new System??? I did suggest you to go for a monitor with IPS panel over a pure gaming monitor for a good reason and also said you won't reach the 144hz on newer games either, at least not on higher details and resolutions.
Wide Screen is nice, but if you want to have more screen space to work with, rather get a second or even third Monitor over a widescreen with this GPU.
If you are ok with a custom resolution though... this is looking very different on
1720 x 720 = 1.238.400
124.416.000 / 1.238.400 = 100 -> around 100 fps expected on 21:9 720p widescreen gaming
It is all up to your personal preferences and where you are willing to compromise. :)
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i was thinking in a screen like this:
https://www.amazon.es/dp/B01AWG4S4K/ref=psdc_937992031_t1_B071L1KDVB
they also do a 29" version for slightly more, but 25" would be good for me.
i'd would be perfectly ok for office and web, and also good for let's say project cars 2 or assetto corsa.
any other random game would work fine i guess.
but i get your point, and i'll think about it.
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Ryzen is delived with an Inbox Cooler, which is good enough to run the Cpu's even on a slight overclock. That's why it is saying inbox.
Any Rzyen Cpu named G has ha a graphics chipset the others don't.
The PC itself shouldn't get overly hot. I just noticed that you can pick the case...
The Antec P101 Silent is a closed case coming with 4 included fans, even though I am not sure what those are capable of, no rgb. and a 3.5" drive bay +40€
https://www.antec.com/product/case/p101-silent.php
I am not sure how much parts you can leave out of their build and get from different vendors but if it's possible, sure why not getting the 30€ less expensive GPU, but it should have 8gb for it to last a while longer, if you really plan on getting a dedicated card.
Regarding your hd 7750...
https://gpu.userbenchmark.com/Compare/AMD-HD-7750-vs-AMD-RX-Vega-11-Ryzen-iGPU/m7709vsm401440
https://technical.city/en/video/Radeon-RX-Vega-11-vs-Radeon-HD-7750
If you should choose to go for the 2400g, don't ever save on the Ram you put in there. Go for a supported 3200 at low CL timings. 16 or lower. This is what makes the Igpu shine.
In any case, whatever PC you pick, you will have a good upgrade from what you are used to.
For the Windows 7 support:
All components are Windows 7 compatible... they are theoretically. As far as I understood, you want to boot up the win7 drive to get the data from it? This might be a problem or not even possible, since you are going to change every hardware. Those do need driver and it is not guaranteed that it will boot up, not even in secure mode, what might be your best option. Do you need the Serial from the windows 7 version read out to use it or do you have it somewhere else? If you got it somewhere else, maybe on the back of your current PC and are just missing the CD/DVD, you can verify your KEY on Microsoft homepage as well, to be able to download the installation files to create one. If you are lucky, you can use that key more often, newer oem keys rarely do so.
https://www.microsoft.com/es-es/software-download/windows7
If you plan to keep on using the hdd as main drive to boot up in case it works... this is actually what the ssd was supposed to do. You would loose so much performance that way...
If non of those works, you can still buy a cheap OEM key for any of windows version 7 or 10. This will be bound to your new hardware and only work in this specific PC. Other than that, you should still be able to enter your windows 7 key into a Windows 10 installation and be able to activate it. You can also use the shop service for their Windows key. Sin clave should be OEM version so use for one PC / Hardware configuration.
If it is just for data, sheets and stuff, you can always install the HDD as non boot drive and still access the data there, as long as it is not damaged.
Take a look at this monitor instead
https://www.amazon.es/LG-29WK600-UltraWide-Blanco-Pantalla/dp/B078GL93KG
I found several postings about a possible working G-Sync compatibility through the Display Port. If this really is working as a non listed but supported G-Sync Compatible Monitor (sadly not verified yet) you could get a nice sweet spot pick for a fair price.
This here is a thread about Vcore capability regarding "hardcore" overclocking and is really accurate. It also includes the notes for stock settings.
You can basically take any board to run a R7 2700, no problem with that, but I picked you one, that will support even 3rd gen up to 3950X not overclocked, just to leave the upgrade option available. Sure you can easy save a few € on picking a 20-30€ cheaper board without loosing to much of the features you might need, but you will limit yourself to what you can change and add in the future, which is why I don't like pre build options without exchangeable options in the first place. You don't need much stuff ..., no oc... you "could" even use a A320 board, if you plan on using this as a PC that you are going to replace with a totally new platform in a few years and simply toss it away. But keep in mind, the cheaper the board you get, the worse the used components will be.An A320 board has a better chance to blow up b4 you want a new one than any B350 or above. Mainboards should not be a part where you start saving big. Saving on features, yes! but not on quality. Going to cheap, you will loose data density on the mainboard, which makes it slower than a 5€ more expensive one with the same features. b450m Mortar data density is 8192 Mbit. (this would also be important, if you ever want to start streaming, but that is a different topic)
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Just to make sure:
The height of an 25" Widescreen is not the same as of normal one.
If you would like an entire page on you screen you should at least have a 24" normal or 29" widescreen (30" would be better in wide)
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My lord, you are like a consultant, so much information and so quick, that I need time to digest! (also speaking of the other post!)
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yeah sorry, but if I do offer my help at some point, I want you to be able to make your decision based on relevant details and your personal preference to choose from.
There are so many rumors, forum talks and crappy videos out there, that lead you to a wrong conclusion. So getting those things out of the way by explaining things is actually needed in most cases. Like those little thought errors like: widescreen 1080p is the same like normal 1080p... because... it says 1080p right? Scroll up, it most definitely is not.
But I think I am done for now, so calm down :D
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Don't get me wrong, I'm really thankful.
Not everyday someone helps you with detail and listening to what you actually say.
The wide-screen is more or less discarded.
About the machine, right now I'm focused on the 750€ price point, so with discrete gpu.
Now it's time to check prices and see what I can obtain, I'll probably check also some local it shop, if there are any left in the neighborhood.
I'll come back with news later... :)
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RX 580 widescreen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MDslVeF9Vlk
RX 570 widescreen https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lsap1p0PNiw
I never said it won't run or you have to discard it, I simply said keep in mind the limits.
If you are going to buy a GPU that is performing 1080p on spot right now, you can be sure that you have to deal with compromises pretty soon. You can and will be able to reach 60-75 fps in "most NEW" titles. And even Assassins Creed will run better, if you reduce it to medium instead of high, which I did calculate with and you will see in the benchmark. Medium is not really a noticeable gameplay difference unless you get bored and start comparing flowers and walls. While you are in motion, there might be some smaller difference that might be noticeable, but it is nothing that will ruin the experience.
I simply gave you an example how games can not work due a GPU limitation running a to high resolution. Maybe I should have said don't get a 3440x1440 instead of only mentioning 2560x1080.
r7 2700 with a rx 580 is a nice lower GPU pairing, but it will run all games you wanna play even on widescreen. You simply should not go higher than 2560x1080p and keep in mind, that you will run into some limitations much sooner than you would in basic 1080p, which is exactly why a dual monitor setup would make more sense, if you primarily got workflow in mind and wanna use the gpu for gaming as long as possible. Yet, you can still reduce the resolution during gaming and might even crank things up to ultra.
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Ok, to give you another thing to rethink.
I am still not sure, what your actual goal is with this PC.
If it is just for Office work, almost any toaster will work just fine. The actual problem would be your decision, how far you want to get back into gaming and what your "gaming requirements" actually are.
Is it just being able to play again?
Do you want to get back into gaming?
Are you looking forward to get to play new game releases?
Do you rather play older games?
Straight into it with 1080p all the way, even new releases?
Depending on those you actually can pretty easy define what will be needed.
The longer I think about this, the more I tend to get you the 2400g as a starting point. Office is overkill. Gaming is very well ok. If it is just to play your older games, you will surprised how well it performs. Depending on the kind of game type, you will also receive outstanding results.
If you feel comfortable enough to do bios updates, you might even consider the more expensive 3400G. I don't know if you are willing or able to overclock, but you can drill this thing, that it almost equals a Gtx 660 or 750ti in some areas.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZxax9SAtRI
Going with the 2400g would be a reasonable choice to start with. If you get back into games, you can still put a GPU in there and straight back at gaming. Maybe even this one will last you several years b4 you even hit a limitation in you gaming style. Just swap out cpu and get the r7 3700x for a steal in one or two years and you right back in it, if the CPU should be the limit.
I am currently worrying that you are going to overspend on hardware, that simply is not required in you situation. Just look how long you used your old system.
- Get the 2400g and the Monitor you desire. Upgrade done for now.
- Getting back into gaming and having a blast? Need more power? Add the something like RX 580. Upgrade done, 1080p widescreen gaming.
- Not enough, add the Vega 56 and reach new areas up to 1440p gaming.
- Need even more? Replace the CPU with a new 8 core cpu and throw a 2070 super at it and welcome back to enthusiastic gaming. And you might wanna go to a 144hz monitor ^^
I do get you desire to be right back and full power, but you said yourself you don't want some enthusiastic build.
Getting the Ryzen 7 2700 will automatically put you in that area, at least CPU wise. It is nice to be able throw anything at it, but I don't think you will add 800€ GPU to be able to get the CPU shine with performance. Nothing wrong with getting it, it is a great Performance/Value and you will be able to work for a very long time with it.... yet... might be a bit overkill in any perspective. Save up the money, be able to have some gaming time and save the rest for future upgrades. Maybe it will be just what you were looking for, if it is to weak, you can still upgrade to the next level without having any issues. Starting at a vega 56 or a 1660 ti, rtx 2060 you might more cpu power would be reasonable. Still the 2400g will also work with those, but you will start loosing on the actual capability due balancing issues in some games
2400g over 3400g. Performance similar but 3400g is to expensive compared to the 2400g. If you gonna put in a GPU, there is really no reason to pay so much for more, let alone of you plan on replacing the CPU at some point, which probably will require a dedicated GPU anyway.
I hope you get my point.
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you mean choose between these two options, te second being the last proposed?
https://www.coolmod.com/presupuesto-pc/q12c
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Pretty much yes.
-
2400g leans towards office work and offers some gaming potential. Lower costs and focused on upgrade ability. Either you are fine with it the way it is right now and you will save another 160-190€ for a not needed dedicated GPU right now or, if not satisfied, you are not really loosing anything, since you will be GPU limited in most cases anyway. Add a stronger GPU and game on. Even the NASA PC would not get more FPS, if you put a RX 580 in there.
-
2700 is kind of all in and rather focused on gaming aspect and same CPU for a longer term usage. The only limiting factor would be the GPU you are willing to put in there. You will be able to swap out the GPU for several years before the CPU might hit its limit. One other benefit would be overall smoothness in games, that do require more than 4 cores. Having more cores "can" reduce the overall drop of FPS in gaming, which makes it smoother and feels more responsive. But keep in mind, depending on the games you play, not even a 2080 ti might bring the 2700 down to its knees. (which is why I think you might be overspending on this CPU for a "light gaming" aspect, but you can do light gaming for a very, very long time for sure XD)
-
If you want to put in a GPU from the start, because you think the 2400g will not be enough for you to begin with, get the Ryzen 2700. The price upgrade would be minor.
There is no sense in anything between. Your limit is 1k. Saving like 80 bugs and get a 6 over an 8 core... not worth it.
Maybe as comparison, I am using this 4/4 since end of 2013.
minimum baseline comparison 2400g + RX 580 vs 2400g
minimum baseline comparison 2400g + RX 580 vs 2700 + RX 580
Playing games up to 3440x1440. I could use those extra threads though, but not going to upgrade yet, even though the 3700x is very tempting. I can still play everything at least at 1080p widescreen and get up to 120 Fps to utilize my monitor. From the looks of it I can use mine at least 1-2 more years for the new game type releases I like, before I am forced to reduce some settings to maintain high FPS. Sure there would be benefits from an upgrade, but since this is still performing so well for me, it would be a waste of money. I can open up about 250 chrome tabs running video advertisements and the limit here is the 32GB RAM, not the CPU or GPU.
The reason why I am not really suggesting the Ryzen 3xxx series right now, is the current hassle with the BIOS on anything lower than X570 mainboards. Prebuild PC + beta Bios... not really something I wanna go with.
X570 great new features, PCIe 4.0... more watt usage, active cooling... yay! Best thing: as far as I know there is not a single GPU out yet that would even require this PCIe 4.0 slot, let alone even supports it...but those boards are at least twice the cost compared to anything below it with the same features. Besides the 3700x, which is the only one I would get out of the third gen, costs almost as much as your entire 2400g build, so go figure ^^
Intel with its current prices is out of question. Yeah you get more Single Core performance, they might give you more FPS, if you are using big enough GPU's. If you spend more, rather get more cores and more threads - so ryzen it is. If you are truly competitive gaming, I'd rather go with Intel again. Just office.... take what you feel comfortable with. Even ITX all in one will do the job.
My low watt itx 24h server / office / media build
https://www.passmark.com/baselines/V9/display.php?id=96224265119
Sleep: 2W
Idel: 8W
common usage: 12-15W
Full Load: 30W
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12 years is an awfully long time for a computer. My previous one lasted 10 and my current one I've had for five and a half so far. They simply fail from long periods of heavy use, nothing you can do about it.
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u could use some old pc parts like ssd, hdd, psu, fans, gpu or ram to put in brand new build.
whats the dead rig specs?
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The usable parts are the hd, the dvd and (as a backup) the gpu
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Define light gaming.
Because you might be able to go with something like a 750 TI. Otherwise, maybe a 1050 TI. Though, I'm not the most up to date.
As for the CPU, I think this kind of thing usually helps. https://www.cpubenchmark.net/cpu_value_available.html#xy_scatter_graph Got a hundred bucks? Ryzen 5 1600. Got two hundred bucks? Ryzen 5 3600. At least based on that, I'm not sure about other specs for those.
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Lol I'm not a bot, only blind it took 3-4 attempts to bypass the anti mechanismbecause I can't read lol XD I just filled in letters and was like lol wut...lololol WUT? Oh XD I need new glasses.
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I was previously a supermoderator in a customer PC modding forum (xoxide), and have built dozens and dozens of custom rigs for myself, friends, and friends of friends. If you want to dig deep or just discuss specifics about parts, hit me up on Steam IM.
Some very brief general advice:
1) If you're building from scratch (sounds like you are), go with AMD. Much more bang for the buck, and the new Ryzen/Threadripper CPUs are freaking amazing. I'm running a TR2 2950x and it is a beastmaster from the pit of hell. Nothing stops it. Runs cool as well.
2) Never, ever, EVER cheap out on your PSU. Don't listen to anyone who tells you otherwise. Getting a really great PSU is one of the best investments that you can make. Remember that every component in your PC is connected to your PSU, and if a cheap PSU goes up in flames, it tends to take other expensive components with it. But buying a really high-quality, fairly future-proof PSU will help keep a stable system and you'll be able to keep it across 1-3 rebuilds/upgrades.
3) Run your whole system on a UPS. I recommend Cyberpower (bang for the buck again). I think that I now own at least four of their PSUs, even replaced the batteries in the oldest one. Still runs like a champ. Running your system on a UPS ensures that it's getting even, clean power. Power fluctuations, especially heavy spikes (but closely followed by sudden power outages), are likely the 2nd leading cause of PC death (the first being heat). A nice one will run you between 80 and 150 US$. You'll keep it a long time and IMO it's cheap insurance for your nice rig.
4) Invest in and design proper cooling in your system. Again, heat is the #1 cause of PC death. Don't run a stock CPU cooler, don't use the shite thermal compound that many coolers are packaged with (get Arctic Silver 5, you'll thank me for it later), and ensure that your case has proper air flow and as close to neutral pressure as possible. A high quality aftermarket CPU cooler will usually knock at least an extra 10 degrees C off your CPU temp, and the right thermal compound can bring it down another 2-3 C. This allows for overclocking or, more importantly IMO, better longevity of your CPU because it stays nice and frosty. So long as I've followed this methodology, I've never had a CPU die.
That's some quick advice from me. If you want to talk more, like I said earlier, hit me up on IM. I'm happy to try and help.
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Spoiler: Unuseful thread now with ga
My pc is clinically dead.
At startup doesn't start bios and fans go full speed.
I took out ram and gpu, changed psu, cleaned and visually checked the mobo.
No way it starts.
It literally blew up in combat. Class 2007. Military honors deserved.
Ejected.
Edit: what do I have to take in account when buying a new pc to warrant I can boot into my old win7 HD? Some limitation regarding Intel cpus if I don't mistake...
Edit 2: all fixing tried by now, next step is buying the next one. Advice welcome. Title changed.
Budget: 1000€ for pre-built pc plus monitor.
Desired specs: tower, silent, low consumption gpu, no overclock, time proof inside the expected usage, no overpriced or "enthusiast" parts, capacity for multiple HD, compatible with win7 is a plus.
Expected usage: office apps, web browsing, light gaming.
Gaming bits: HD screen, few recent games, most are 3-4 years old, most interested in Sim racing, vr headset support would be nice if not so expensive.
Edit 3: added possible builds.
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